I wanna build a new system.

amulford

I just picked up a truck. Of course the sound system is lacking to my taste. So I'd like to start another project.

Now, I know car audio is a completely different animal than home audio. That's why I'm coming to you guys...

Here's the spec requirements -

1) The truck is a 1994 Ford F-150, extended cab. Four speakers and sub(s)

2) I'm not really interested in showing the neighborhood how loud I can go. But I would like to get an output of somewhere around 110 db CRANKED if I wanna go there (which I sometimes do). Nice clean sound.

3) I'd like to minimize cutting into stuff. Prefer drop ins, if I can do it. I know this ain't possible for the sub(s)

4) I'd like to limit power output to under 1000 watts. Maybe 1500, tops. I currently am running around 2600 for home, ain't no way I need that much for a truck cab... Plus I'd like to avoid alot of caps and ****. Trying to use the available power in the truck.

5) All new wiring - speaker, power, IC, etc.

6) No video involved, but would like to be able to expand with an add in later if I get the urge..

7) Budget cap of $2500

I'll be doing all the work. And I wanna try to keep it as much Polk as possible. Suggestions are what I'm seeking, the I'll go demo and get 'er done. This will take a little while, but it's a labor of love.

Any advice???

exalted512

theres a few more things we need to know
can you build your own sub box?
what are the size of your front speakers??
how much room do you have under your back seat?
what i would do, if you wanted to get some ideas, is go to cardomain and find your specific truck and see what other people have done as far as subs go
i have stopped recommending Polk for their subs--the "high end" momos suck
i havent had extensive experience with their "low end" momos yet, i installed one in my friends truck but i have no idea how durable it is
but for right now---
1. can you build your own box for under you back seat?
2. is there a lot of space under your back seat?
3. what size are your front speakers?
-Cody

amulford

Yes, I can build a box for the sub(s). Front speakers? Haven't taken off the panels to find out.

Will do...

I don't have a back seat, just a couple of little fold down jobs. I'd like to be able to stick the kids back there if I have to, though.

VR3

For subs...

www.adireaudio.com

MacLeod

$2500?! Dude you can have an extreme high end system for that much.

For an excellent system but yet still simple, this is a system that would come in way under your budget and sound very good.

I highly recommend component speakers in the front. Rear only serve to smear the detail and pull your soundstage to the rear. In a truck you do not need rear speakers. That being said these MM6's are my favorite Polk speaker and for $190 they cant be beat. These MMC6500's are the new comps. They too sound excellent but I prefer the MM6, I think they sound a little smoother.

Here is your subwoofer. A DVC Polk 10. It will handle 300 watts per coil.

For amps, I like a 5 channel for setups like this. Much easier to install and just more practical all around. This MTX Thunder895 is as bad as they come. 500 watts to your sub and you bi-amp the front stage (50 to tweeters, 50 to mids). This amp is way underrated so youre getting probably around 70x4 + 550x1 if I had to bet.

If youre not an MTX fan there is this Kicker 5 channel which isnt as powerful but costs less. Still a very good amp but Id prefer the MTX.

There is a bad **** system for less than $1500 once you factor in materials, wires and cables. Install is properly and this system will compete with pretty much anything out there.

Joelsbass

my turn

Fronts....

MM6 component set from www.sounddomain.com : $190
-this covers your entire soundstage if installed properly, might need a little custom work but trust me it's entirely worth it.

Amps for MM6...

Best: US Amps TU-4360 from www.speedsound.com : $500ish w/ shipping
-75x4 so you can bi-amp the MM6's for optimal sq. run the front channels through the mm6's xovers and get a small xover for the rear channels to run lp, hp or just get some 'bass blockers' aka capacitors (spelling?) to block out low frequencies below 80hz or so...

Good: you can also go with the polk audio 400.4 (i think that's the right model number) pretty much designed for bi-amping components from what i've heard

Subs...

Adire Audio Koda 10" from www.sound-foundations.us for $229
-you should be fine with one as you don't want massive volume and this will keep the power aspect down as well. great sub with the XBL^2 motor structure giving it awesome SQ

Power for Sub...
If going with one sub...
first recomendation would be the US Amps USA-400x for 400w @4ohms. sub reccomends 300 but if you keep the gain down you've got plenty of headroom so you don't strain any other part of the system. this'll run ya $370 from speedsound.com and if you want 2 subs you should go with the US Amps USA-600 for 600w @2ohms, run the subs in parallel and you'll be fine, won't provide as much headroom though.

or....
you can go with the polk c300.2 bridged to 4 ohms for 450w. also a good solution for the single sub setup. if you use 2 you could go with the 500.1 but you'd be underpowering the subs and risk pushing the amp/HU into clipping while trying to get the desired volume.

Head Unit (asuming you don't already have one picked out...)
I'd reccomend a pioneer from sounddomain.com there are two (not too expensive) options that i'd run with, both also offer mp3/wma playback, always a plus :cool: ...
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PIODEHP7600MP
Pioneer DEHP7600MP
and.....
http://www.speedsound.com/caraudio.asp?pg=products&specific=jnhodmcrc
Pioneer Premier DEHP860MP from speedsound.com

the diff between the two is that the 860 has 6v preouts so it has a stronger signal strength and it has the premier 2yr warranty. this is the one i'd reccomend...

so here's the list of my first pics...
Polk MM6: $190
US Amps TU-4360: $500
Adire Koda 10": $230
US Amps USA-400x: $370
Pioneer Premier DEHP860MP: $370

Grand Total of $1660 plus some shipping so around 1700, this leaves you plenty for wire and dampening...

Go to knukonceptz.com pick up this kit http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK4
30 bucks for 4ga wiring (you'll have a fuse rating of 115 if you go with the usamps amps so 4ga will be fine) this one will give you a pair of RCA's as well but i'd pitch them and go with something from streetwires... like this http://www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com/products/product.cfm?PN=ZN650 get 2 pairs at $110 each
you'll also need a distro block for the 4ga... you'll want this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=BC-3448
and this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=BC-1448 one for the inputs and the other for the ground... i've got an email in to US Amps to check on wether you'll need 4 or 6 terminals... should know soon, and i can readvise after i know... you're looking at $20 for those two and you'll want several ft of 8ga to run to the amps.

add in some dampening for the doors from www.secondskinaudio.com and you've got an awesome system, it'll be right around your price range but this should give you some excelent SQ at referance levels

mbdyer12

I definately agree with Joelsbass all the way

AustinKP

Good suggestions, but I'd save $180 and get these RCA's from knukonceptz.com. The Krystal Kables are their top-of-the-line, and would compare directly - if not beat handily - those stinger interconnects. They are $16.99 each compared to $110 each. I would wager that not a single person on this forum could tell a difference!

neomagus00

oh, man, austin, you're killing me... i think that i'm gonna get me a set of the TOTL knu rca's and we'll have ourselves a real listening test (yes, i like my experts, but i'm willing to be unbiased with this)... i'll let peeps know how it goes eventually...

AustinKP

Seriously though...don't you find spending more than $20-$30 dollars for a couple WIRES ludicrous? I find the stinger RCA's ridiculously overpriced, as are most others. The knu's have the same features or more, for insanely less money. If there's ANY difference, I'd bet it's negligible, at best. I could be way wrong, but that's the way I see it...
-Austin

amulford

Thanks for the info so far, fellas.

So far I get the idea I should lose the rear speakers, right? I can live wit dat. I'm all about sound stage..

Now, I also see the general consensus isn't with Polk subs. Why? What about twin 8's??? One for each channel...

I also beleive in good wires. can I custom order wires to length. I really don't like to have to coil **** up, it ain't good.

Distribution blocks... Why for??? From where to where? Battery t/o frim fuse block to amps? Amps to speakers?

Nobody likes the Polk/Momo amps???

I'm no where near out of the woods, yet. Please bear with me, I may become somewhat of a pain in the ****.... I'm not quite in my element.:D

MacLeod

I would say the only real difference would be in shileding and noise protection. SQ would remain the same tonally.

When I first installed my system I ran down to Radio Shack and got a set of their chea-o RCA's (like the kind that come with camcorders) and ran them till I could afford some better. It sounded ok and I debated if I should upgrade. Then I bought a set of Monster RCA cables and was quite stunned as to how much less noise there was.

I think once you get to the $40-50 sets of RCA's that they have filtered out virtually all the noise you can hear anyway. Im sure the $100 set would be a lot cleaner but doubt you could be able to hear the difference.

I am going to upgrade eventually and go with a twisted pair.

exalted512

Originally posted by amulford
Thanks for the info so far, fellas.

So far I get the idea I should lose the rear speakers, right? I can live wit dat. I'm all about sound stage..

Now, I also see the general consensus isn't with Polk subs. Why? What about twin 8's??? One for each channel...

I also beleive in good wires. can I custom order wires to length. I really don't like to have to coil **** up, it ain't good.

Distribution blocks... Why for??? From where to where? Battery t/o frim fuse block to amps? Amps to speakers?

Nobody likes the Polk/Momo amps???

I'm no where near out of the woods, yet. Please bear with me, I may become somewhat of a pain in the ****.... I'm not quite in my element.:D

-yes, lose the rear speakers
-I dont like Polk subs because ive gone through 6 in 3 years and hear about new ones dying on a weekly basis
-the koda sub will have better sound quality
-for wiring, if you want to custom order your power wire you can, another place to look at is www.weldingsupply.com, it is not as flexible and nice to look at but its cheaper and gets the job done just as well--RCAs come in different lengths...12, 16, etc
-you will want to have a fuse within 18" of your battery, this will protect your power wire, this will run as close to your amps as possible to a fused distribution block
from the block it will seperate into two different power wires and go the individual amps...assuming you get 2 amps
-polk/momo amps, while good, do not suit all needs as their selection is severely limited and i like to have all my amps be the same brand for the "clean" install
-Cody

VR3

Adire Subs = Hit Harder, Play Louder, Sound Better, Flat Out Monsters!

MacLeod

Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3
Adire Subs = Hit Harder, Play Louder, Sound Better, Flat Out Monsters!

....wait 3 months for them to be shipped to you!

Joelsbass

that was just backorder on the new MKII brahmas, i've not heard of any problems with the Koda's (could be wrong though) and the issue should resolve as time passes...

VR3

Originally posted by MacLeod
....wait 3 months for them to be shipped to you!

So?

I'd wait 3 months for those monsters...

MacLeod

Not me. I have ZERO patience for anything. LOL

When I finally get the money to buy something I want it NOW!! LOL

exalted512

good thinkg youre not saving up for JL...youd never have a system;)
thank you, thank you, ill be here all night--and then some
-Cody

amulford

Have been shopping around. Tried a few different places, and found some nice stuff.

Amp - JLaudio E series - 5 channel deal 120 to the fronts, the rear channels will be only 25 W for fill in, forgot the sub's output
Speakers - Polk's 6.5 components up front, 5 x 7 coax for the rears. (sorry, just can't leave them out)

Head - Alpine, haven't decided which one, but I like them. I have a 50 or 60W X 4 I put in the ole ladies car, I like it.

Sub - I heard this little 8" at Tweeter, it had a good sound, but not enough of it. Still need to shop...

Are the prices for the speakers I'd buy thru this site good???

dorokusai

Anthony - You have unleashed a monster, the dogs of car audio upon your vehicle....get ready for some explosive sound honcho.

exalted512

i guess the polk 6.5s you are referring to are the mm6s? theyre going for $160 on sounddomain now. nice choice on amps, one of the 2 things id ever buy from JL. my personal preference on head units is pioneer, but alpine will do you great. if you want to look at some pioneers, go to www.electronicscity.com, my $900 pioneer was only $550 there, cheapest place i could find thats authorized. as far as an 8" sub that sounds good and can pound away, thought about kicker? their 8" L7 is a very capable sub woofer in both SQ and SPL. i first heard one at a shop in Corpus Christi and i was extremely impressed with its sound quality. i was almost positive i wouldnt like it, but after hearing it-i was a believer. It can handle 450 watts continuous and has the surface area to move a lot of air. draw back is that it costs $250 on sounddomain last time i checked but theyre having a 15% off sale on subs and amps, so itll be more like $215.
-Cody

MacLeod

Youre probably talking about the Slash series amps from JL. Their 5 channel is 125x2 for front, 25x2 for rear and 250x1 for the sub.

The E series is their unregulated line of amps and while they dont have a 5 channel they do have a 6 channel that is 45x6.

As far as 8's go, Diamond Audio's CM3 is pretty good too. It sounds good, handles 400 RMS and will work in a very small box.

The L7 Cody mentioned is a great sub too. It has a lot more surface area than a normal 8 so it would be my choice.

amulford

As an update, here is the system I have ordered. I have had the help of another forum member, and think we have come up with what will be a pretty decent system. lemme know what you think...


Front's - Polk Audio MMC6500's
Rears's - Image Dynamics CX54
Sub - Polk Audio Carbon Series MMC2104DVC
Wiring - all by StreetWires
Head unit - Kenwood EZ-500 CD/MP3/WMA Receiver
Sattelite - Kenwood KTC-SR903 Sirius Satellite
Front and rear amp - Soundstream VGA500.4 (125w x 4)
Sub amp- Soundstream VGA800.2 (400w x 2)

I'm still waitng for it all to come in, I'll keep ya'll posted...:D

exalted512

everything sounds great. whered you order it from?
Sounds like a fun time to do some installing!!!
-Cody

amulford

I' started to get stuff in. But I'm having a problem getting the sub I want.

I would like to get a MMC2104DVC or a MM104, but can't seem to be able to find one.

HELP!!!:(

Jstas

Dude, sorry I haven't called you back yet. What with the wife being a cripple and my dad wanting to setup wireless networking and the long hours at work and so on and so forth...anyway, it's 10 pm here and I just got home from work so I'll try to give you a shout tomorrow.

MacLeod

MM2104DVC.
As for the MM104, they have gone the way of the do-do so you probably wont be able to find any of them.

amulford

Thank you, sir. The price was better than what I paid for the MM2104 I already got.

It is on the way. I don't normally "settle", but I was going to in this case just to get the system in and running. This will postpone the install a little, but I think it will be worth it. The sub I "settled" for is going back, or in the ole' lady's car.

Systems

ok. look this answer, ===> www.s_what_i.uk

MacLeod

Huh?