Recomendation for an Opel Monza

hbrandi
hbrandi Posts: 7
edited October 2004 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hello everybody!

I want to install a sound system to my Opel Monza. What I want is a sound system that reproduces sound clearly and with fidelity. I like classical music but also new age and electronical. I do not like extremely loud music I like quality and fidelity so I change power for clarity and pressition. On a boutique told me that I could buy a 2 way set with cross overs for the front doors on their fabric locations and a 6x9 set for the back speakers. They told me that if what I wanted was quality of sound and clear bass with this would be enough. Is this correct? If so, what kind of speakers should I buy to accomplish my goals?

I know I sound lost but I am lost in this car audio world. I hope you can help me.

Best regards,

Hermann Brandi :confused:
Post edited by hbrandi on

Comments

  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited October 2004
    the most important question is how much money you are willing to spend? the second question is how much work can you do to the car? depending upon your budget, you might put a new headunit (control unit) in the car, as well as perhaps a subwoofer.

    you will not want rear speakers in any case, so don't get those. you were told correctly, that you can get a 2-way set for the front and depending upon your budget, maybe a small subwoofer.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • hbrandi
    hbrandi Posts: 7
    edited October 2004
    Thank you neomagus

    I was thinking in buying a new headunit I don't know what brand would get the job done. In the boutique I saw a few Pioneers and Kenwood but I am looking for one that I could connect my iPod to it.

    On the entire system maybe I would spend like a 1000 or 1500 dollars. The work on my car I could do some but a rather like some discrete installation to avoid stealling.

    In subwoofer I have no idea also I was thinking in one but they told me 6.5'', 8'', etc. Of course the size of the box was getting bigger and also the amplifier.

    My car has 6.5'' speaker in the front doors and a couple 6.5'' (I think two way) speakers on the back. I would like a small subwoofer in the trunk. What could be a good recommendation? What kind of sets should I buy? What kind of amplifier and power could do the job?

    Thank you!
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited October 2004
    This is what Id recommend.

    Forget rear speakers and go with front components only. You can go with these which are the best deal out there right now.

    For an amp Id recommend something like this MTX . You would run the tweeters off the front outputs and the mids off the rear.

    Then since its a hatchback I would say a single 12 would get the job done. I perfer the single sub route personally. Its cheaper, easier to install and easier to tune. This Image Dynamics 12 would sound very good and works in a smallish enclosure.

    To power it Id go with this MTX amp. Youd run it bridged to the dual 2 ohm voice coils of the sub and it would power it nicely.

    This is one of about a zillion configurations and although this isnt a super bass system, it would have plenty of volume and sound great assuming installed properly.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited October 2004
    that sounds like a great setup. it also costs only $900, and that's a great price. for a headunit, i would reccommend what i have, the DEH-P860MP. This is a very capable headunit, and with the $35 CD-RB10 and a $5 adaptor from radioshack, you can hook up your ipod. you can also step down a level or two and keep most of the features - i don't know about the IP-BUS feature though, ask at your dealer. Alpines are also quite good, and should have a similar auxilary input. i personally distrust kenwoods, but these are the big 3 names.

    you will need some accessories to complete your installation. you will need power cable, ground cable, speaker wire, and most importantly, interconnects (also called patch cables or RCAs). www.knukonceptz.com is quite good for power, ground, and speaker wire (maybe $50 total, to be generous), and i would reccommend the best interconnects you can buy; i use stinger experts, and i love them; there are other brands out there that are quite good, such as streetwires' zero-noise series. expect to spend around $200 for two cables (one cable for each amplifier, each cable has 2 wires, a left and a right). you should use a distribution block, such as this streetwires block, for . you would run 4 gauge cable to your distribution block (which is near your amplifiers), then 8 gauge power cable from the d-block to each amp. finally, you will need a fuse and fuse holder, a maximum of 18" away from the battery. the value will be the sum of the fuse ratings on each amplifier. check www.mtx.com for those. you might also want terminals for your power, ground, and speaker wire (definately for attaching power to battery, and each ground to the same point - these are just crimp-on ring terminals). you could use wire loom to keep your wires tidy. a crimping tool will come in handy, too. um... oh, you'll want some dynamat or something similar for the trunk and the door panels around and behind the speakers. consider perhaps $200 for this, to do it right. www.secondskinaudio.com. i can't think of anything else at the moment...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • mbdyer12
    mbdyer12 Posts: 220
    edited October 2004
    A head unit like this would suit your needs just as well. Its "basically" the same thing that neo listed, just without a color display and you'll save around $130 bucks there. As far as the interconnects, power cables, and all that goes....I'd say go with StreetWires ZN2 or ZN3 models. You can find them on www.sounddomain.com . The rest of the wires would be fine from www.knukonceptz.com . As for sound dampening for your trunks and doors, if you want a cheaper route (even though secondskin is fantastic frm what I've heard), you can get fat mat for much less. A trunk kit is $40 and if you wanted to do most of your car (doors and trunk, maybe some floor too) 100 sq ft is only $100.
    The suggestions that mac listed would be a good solution (especially the front components)..
    By the way, why didn't you put up any JL stuff, mac? :D
    2005 Subaru Impreza WRX
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited October 2004
    Originally posted by mbdyer12
    By the way, why didn't you put up any JL stuff, mac? :D

    Well that sounds like a good idea!

    For amps look to this E4300 which puts out over 70 watts per channel despite its 45 watt rating (according to the latest magazine review) and bi-amp these XR650CSI which have excellent midbass and one of the sweetest midranges on the market.

    Then you go get one of these top of the line 10W6 subs and power it with this E1400 mono amp.

    Install it properly with good quality wires and such and youve got yourself a competition ready system loaded with some of the best equipment to be had.

    Now you guys know Cody is going to have an **** attack when he sees this! All this JL stuff in a single post, plus chemistry may give him a nervous break down! :p
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • Joelsbass
    Joelsbass Posts: 637
    edited October 2004
    ya just had to get him started didn't ya Mbdyer :p


    personally my vote leans toward adire once you pass the polk price bracket...
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited October 2004
    Originally posted by MacLeod
    Now you guys know Cody is going to have an **** attack when he sees this! All this JL stuff in a single post, plus chemistry may give him a nervous break down! :p
    man, an **** attack? that must be some serious chemistry... :D

    joel - which bit of adire? kona, or subs?
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Joelsbass
    Joelsbass Posts: 637
    edited October 2004
    ummm........ yes.........

    i like the Koda's and the Brahma's...
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!
  • hbrandi
    hbrandi Posts: 7
    edited October 2004
    Thank you guys for all this information.:eek:

    I have a lot to study though. I am going to see if I can get these products around here.

    Thank you for all your comments and I will be posting here if I have doubts (that I will have).

    Regards.
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited October 2004
    no prob brandi... yes, do study, it's good for you :)... but actually, adire will sell straight from the factory, if i'm not mistaken, and it should be at a discount (relative to MSRP), since you're not getting it through a dealer. if you choose not to go with adire, which is perfectly valid, you can go with something like my listed setup, perhaps with mbdyer's modifications, or macleod's jl reccommendations, which spell out a very nice setup.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs