Biwire AB channels?
RobXant
Posts: 201
Does anyone know if using the "B" channel speakers on my reciever (Yamaha RX-V1400) for the second set of outs in a BiWire configuration is the equivalent of a bi-amp setup? Isn't the B channel it's own amp, as it drives a second zone?
I am checking into this as I'm waiting for the LSi7s I bought from Brett to arrive... Can't wait to get rid of my crummy old speakers!
Thanks for your advice, gents.
Rob
I am checking into this as I'm waiting for the LSi7s I bought from Brett to arrive... Can't wait to get rid of my crummy old speakers!
Thanks for your advice, gents.
Rob
Yamaha RX-V1500 // Outlaw Audio M200 (x2) Panasonic TH-52PZ700U
Sony DVP-NS715P // Sony Playstation3 // Roku Soundbridge M1000[/color]
Polk LSi15 (w/Monster Z2 Wire) // Polk LSiC // Polk LSi7 // Velodyne DLS-3500
Workshop Rig: Creek 4330 // Technics SL-P310 // Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble 2
Sony DVP-NS715P // Sony Playstation3 // Roku Soundbridge M1000[/color]
Polk LSi15 (w/Monster Z2 Wire) // Polk LSiC // Polk LSi7 // Velodyne DLS-3500
Workshop Rig: Creek 4330 // Technics SL-P310 // Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble 2
Post edited by RobXant on
Comments
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Sure it's possible, but I wouldn't bother. Most AVR's shut down surround channels in order to feed a B set of outputs....and if that's the case, you have an HT issue.
I am not extensively familiar with your particular AVR, but stick with the 110wpc, you'll be fine.
The LSi7 isn't a hard speaker to drive. You will like them much more after they get burned in....hell, you may love them out of the box.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Yamaha actually lists this as in their manaul as a way to bi-wire. I just wonder if this is the same as Bi-Amping, too?
Thanks
RobYamaha RX-V1500 // Outlaw Audio M200 (x2) Panasonic TH-52PZ700U
Sony DVP-NS715P // Sony Playstation3 // Roku Soundbridge M1000[/color]
Polk LSi15 (w/Monster Z2 Wire) // Polk LSiC // Polk LSi7 // Velodyne DLS-3500
Workshop Rig: Creek 4330 // Technics SL-P310 // Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble 2 -
Well, it's wordplay. I call it misleading, but in a way it's still right. Regardless, you still increase the load on your particular amplifier.
Bi-Amp = 2 Amps whether it's internal or external.
Bi-Wire = 2 Pairs of Wire to send signal to a loudspeaker, not amps.
I am going to take a look at the manual and get some excerpts from it posted for the readers.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
I guess the idea of bi-wiring doens't make much sense if you are just splitting one output into two channels (like some of the "bi-wire" cables that are simply a "Y" configuration), but if you are using an otherwise unused amp during stereo operation (as oposed to surround) then isn't it increasing the juice to the speakers in two channel stereo mode?
What sparked my curiosity is seeing a review of the Denon 3805 on audioholics -here- where the author showed how that particular reciever could be set up this way...
I realize that its not going to give up another 100 watts of power, but I am interested if it makes any difference at all over those "Y" biwire speaker cables.
RobYamaha RX-V1500 // Outlaw Audio M200 (x2) Panasonic TH-52PZ700U
Sony DVP-NS715P // Sony Playstation3 // Roku Soundbridge M1000[/color]
Polk LSi15 (w/Monster Z2 Wire) // Polk LSiC // Polk LSi7 // Velodyne DLS-3500
Workshop Rig: Creek 4330 // Technics SL-P310 // Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble 2 -
I save myself headache by:
1) Just not caring about what it could or couldn't do.
I've been there done that, and if I could top the sound in my rig by throwing more money into it, ala ordering bi-wires....I would have done that already.
I'm 100% satisfied with the performance, and would only change things to simply hear more gear.
Good luck in what you choose.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Originally posted by RobXant
I realize that its not going to give up another 100 watts of power, but I am interested if it makes any difference at all over those "Y" biwire speaker cables.
As to your question about the separate AB channels. I don't know about the RXV series, but the HTR series was just an A/B switch.
I think you should keep asking questions and researching. whether the RXV1400 does have separate A/B channels. Or just go to Radio Shack and buy a 50ft spool of speaker wire for $10, and try it out.Win7 Media Center -> Onkyo TXSR702 -> Polk Rti70 -
You can bi-wire your mains in the you describe with the RX-V1400.
As per the manual..........
"The unit also allows you to make bi-wired connections to one speaker system. Use two pairs of speaker cables for each speaker (one pair for the woofer and one pair for the tweeter/mid-range). To use the bi-wired connections, press SPEAKERS A and SPEAKERS B on the front panel so that both SP A and SP B light up on the front panel display."
http://www.yamaha.com/yec/customer/manuals/RX-V1400_U.pdfGo BIG or go home! -
Sowen- That's what I read in the manual, as well. The question I am posing, then, is whether that AB switch adds more power by employing an unused amp section (the zone 2 amp?) or simply splits the available power by running it to both speaker channels?
I do listen at lower volumes fairly often. So, as Reaper mentioned, messing with this idea seems like it'd be worthwhile.
I suppose I could grab my trusty Fluke and read the output from each section and see what difference the adding the B channel makes. Not sure I'd even know what the results really mean, though. I think you need a load on each circuit to measure anything.
Either way, that means I gotta pull that **** of an Ikea entertainment center away from the wall again. I should just put wheels on the the freakin thing! LOL
RobYamaha RX-V1500 // Outlaw Audio M200 (x2) Panasonic TH-52PZ700U
Sony DVP-NS715P // Sony Playstation3 // Roku Soundbridge M1000[/color]
Polk LSi15 (w/Monster Z2 Wire) // Polk LSiC // Polk LSi7 // Velodyne DLS-3500
Workshop Rig: Creek 4330 // Technics SL-P310 // Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble 2 -
From what I understand A/B simply parallels front two channels to an additional set of binding posts. There would be no increase in power. It would only be bi-wiring. If you want to use 5.1 only, you can turn off the surround back channels, enable zone 2, then bi-amp your mains with the zone 2 output.Go BIG or go home!
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I do only plan on using 5.1, so this sounds like the ticket. Can you think of any negative side effects from this arrangment? I wonder why Yamaha doensn't suggest this in the manual, as well...
RobYamaha RX-V1500 // Outlaw Audio M200 (x2) Panasonic TH-52PZ700U
Sony DVP-NS715P // Sony Playstation3 // Roku Soundbridge M1000[/color]
Polk LSi15 (w/Monster Z2 Wire) // Polk LSiC // Polk LSi7 // Velodyne DLS-3500
Workshop Rig: Creek 4330 // Technics SL-P310 // Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble 2 -
Probably because of shortcomings in the power supply. From what I have heard from talking with Yamaha, the 1400 is only capable of 110x2 or about 50x7 with all channels driven. With that, it would seem the sustained output would only be around 350 watts RMS. So with a setup like you're suggesting, it wouldn't be 220x2, but closer to 175x2. "All channels driven" never really happens with normal use. But, with bi-amping with the reciever, you'd be driving 4 channels all the way.Go BIG or go home!