polk is crap

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Comments

  • Buff013085
    Buff013085 Posts: 24
    edited September 2004
    maybe its bridged cody i dunno. all i know is even at bridged its 600 watts rms which im sure is not true, its prolly less than that. and it outta be able to handle 600 watts being its a 500 rms 1000 max. 600 watts should not blow the sub anyway.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited September 2004
    actually, it turns out that these speakers tend to take their rated power and no more - which is why it's referred to as their rated power. again, it's not so much a wattage issue as an excursion issue in many cases, including this one (as you're so amply illustrating).

    joel - when any signal clips, doesn't the RMS of the signal actually go above the RMS of a full-strength sine wave? cause that's what causes VC burn, the extra heat of a DC signal w/o the cooling of a moving cone? and yeah, most preouts will clip eventually, but way after speaker outputs tend to, that's why for external amps it's rec'd to do gains settings at ~90% of HU max volume.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • TrappedUnder Ice
    TrappedUnder Ice Posts: 975
    edited September 2004
    Ok...maybe I missed it....but what kind of box was this sub in? Was the box made for other subs prior to this one? is it a pre-fab box> Box has a lot to do with the perfomance and life of the sub

    as far as pre-outs go. There are some High end units that do have non-clipping pre-outs...but very few. Hu should not be turned up more then 3/4 way as a rule of thumb...
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited September 2004
    yeah, that's a great question, what are the specs of the box?

    btw, here is a better version of the gains thing i posted earlier... sorry it's so ugly...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Buff013085
    Buff013085 Posts: 24
    edited September 2004
    the mm10 comes in its own box. and as to a question earlier....my cd player goes up to 40 on the volume. and today it wasnt working early in the day then i turned on my HU again and it started working on and off for a min or 2 then quit again. what do i need to send the woofer off for repair? i have receipt and what else?
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!
  • AustinKP
    AustinKP Posts: 861
    edited September 2004
    If the sub is the MM10, then it came in it's own MDF/plexi box made by Polk.
    http://www.silverdragon.com/punkie/cybertusk/net.idiot.html - Read it, know it

    Alpine 9815
    Polk MM6's in custom fiberglass door pods
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  • Joelsbass
    Joelsbass Posts: 637
    edited September 2004
    how well is the amp grounded? make sure that the ground wire hasn't come loose at all and is making solid contact to clean metal on the frame of the car (no mounting brackets or anything)

    also push lightly on the subwoofer, enough so it moves a little... does it move fluidly? is there any noise or excess resistance?
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!
  • Buff013085
    Buff013085 Posts: 24
    edited September 2004
    grounded correctly yes. i have checked that 100 times by now. it moves just fine whenever i press on and and no other noise,.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!
  • Joelsbass
    Joelsbass Posts: 637
    edited September 2004
    Originally posted by Buff013085
    yes its dead. it didnt work today it didnt work yesterday and started acting up the day before that.

    define acting up? was it cutting in and out or was it getting very poor sq?

    if it was cutting in and out it could be a problem with the amplifier or the wiring instead of the sub, have you considered the amp could be going out? try finding a friend (or maybe a local audio shop) who will let you hook their sub up to your amp for a min or two to see if that sub gets a signal.

    the problem in the wiring could be much less obvious than a blown fuse or bad ground... there could be a tear in the coating somewhere hidden by carpet that is allowing the wiring to come in contact with metal. i know guys who've had to pull all their wiring out to find out that one small cut was the source of their problems (electrical tape solves that problem)

    does your amp have a light that comes on when it's in protect mode? does it have a different light (or just different color) when it's in ready mode? if so which light is on when the system is on?


    i'd hook another sub up to the amp to make sure it's the sub and not amp/wiring before i'd accuse the company of sucking or spend the money to ship it back....
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!
  • Buff013085
    Buff013085 Posts: 24
    edited September 2004
    no the amp is getting power. yes there is a light on it when its in protect mode and its not right now. as to acting up i mean not working. i will hook up another sub just to make sure before i send it off.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!