What to do......
sowen010599
Posts: 343
About surge suppresion...
So, I live in Western North Texas, basically the worst place in the world if you don't like lightning, billion mile-an-hour winds, Volkswagen size hail, and (my favorite) tornadoes. It is all but unthinkable here to run any expensive electrical device without SOME type of surge protection.
What then? I know my RX-V2400 sounds notably better when connected straight to the wall with my Signal Cable MagicPower cable. So what do I do? It scares me to plug it straight into the wall because I know the first time I do, I will forget about it, and at 3am a tornadic super-cell will come pounding though blowing my gear up.
Signal Cable needs to make a MagicSurgeProtector! I'd be all over that!
So, I live in Western North Texas, basically the worst place in the world if you don't like lightning, billion mile-an-hour winds, Volkswagen size hail, and (my favorite) tornadoes. It is all but unthinkable here to run any expensive electrical device without SOME type of surge protection.
What then? I know my RX-V2400 sounds notably better when connected straight to the wall with my Signal Cable MagicPower cable. So what do I do? It scares me to plug it straight into the wall because I know the first time I do, I will forget about it, and at 3am a tornadic super-cell will come pounding though blowing my gear up.
Signal Cable needs to make a MagicSurgeProtector! I'd be all over that!
Go BIG or go home!
Post edited by sowen010599 on
Comments
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Originally posted by sowen010599
What then? I know my RX-V2400 sounds notably better when connected straight to the wall with my Signal Cable MagicPower cable.
How do you know that if you don't have a surge protector in the system now? I would suggest you get a high quality surge protector/power conditioner.
I got a Monster Power MP-HTS2500 MKII for $164 + shipping. http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=monmphts2500&store=&catid=4100
After installing the HTS2500 in my system, I actually noted a increase in high end (treble) performance & less noise.
Or, you could cover your house in tin foil.....Bob Mayo, on the keyboards. Bob Mayo. -
Or, you could cover your house in tin foil..... [/B][/QUOTE]
you think tin foil will help against a tornado !! must be the heavy duty kind !! -
I've tried a couple different surge protectors. I'll get the one you mention. The others I've tried literally sucked the life from my system.Go BIG or go home!
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did you read the post by dkg999 on ........last night ??
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I use a Monster Power 5000 series (can't remember the exact number) and an Adcom ACE-515 and have just about all the HT, Stereo, and PC equipment running off of those. The PC also has an additional Belkin surge suppressor being used. In my apt. I don't have the luxury of moving outlets, so it's a little convoluted, but it works. I agree that the Monster, or the Adcom, do make my amps sound better. I just wish either one had a few more outlets for amplifiers, as I have four currently. At my house at the farm in IA, I have an industrial power conditioner/surge suppressor running right off of the 200 amp breaker panel that all the circuits for the computer equipment and audio/video are run from. You can pick these up sometimes on eBay or other industrial equipment auction sites pretty reasonable. These are used to protect the motors in expensive lab and production equipment. I paid $240 for mine and it will protect up to 60 amps worth of circuits and produces incredibly clean power. Mine is made by Dayton Industrial. It also has a soft-shutdown feature is the electricity goes off, and will smooth out flickers in the electricity during a storm. It won't help during an IA tornado, much less a Texas size twister!
Edit - just noticed the post before. I tried a cheap AR surge suppressor/power conditioner on my bedroom HT setup and it literally sucked the life out of my Yamaha HTR-5660. I'm going to try a straight surge suppressor on it, hopefully with better luck!DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
This is what the doctor ordered for you. Gona set you back some good coin though.
Dan
http://www.audiolinesource.com/index2.html
Whoops forgot linkRecever AVR 8000
Amp PA 4000
CDR 26
Mains RTI 150 Bi wired
Center CSI 40 Bi wired
Surround FXI 30
Rear RTI 4
Sub PSW 140 -
Again I'll recommend the HTS2500 MKII. That link I provided above IS an authorized internet reseller. I confirmed that with Monster Cable Customer Service. I ordered from that site, and everything went perfect. They had it shipped the next day. And you will NOT find a lower price for a brand new, WITH warranty unit. (trust me, I tried)
With the 2500 MKII, you get a $100,000 Connected Equipment Warranty.Bob Mayo, on the keyboards. Bob Mayo. -
*sigh*
I think I am gonna need a bigger rack. Mine's packed. Gonna try the Monster MKII. Should be here in a few days. Still have to find somewhere to put it though.
I wonder if there is anything to be gained from upgrading the wiring from the wall to the breaker box. Honestly, have you ever seen that stuff? The wire and outlet is crap! We buy these sweet arse power cables and plug them into crap. Makes me wonder.Go BIG or go home! -
When I wired my house, I used a higher grade of 12awg 110v wire than normally found at the Lowes/Home Depot stores ... for the audio/video/PC circuits. I went to an actual electrical supply store and in consultation with my electrical sub used some more expensive (about 30%) wire on those runs. Does it make a difference, not sure and can't scientifically prove that it does. In theory it should. I do agree with your comment on plugging expensive audio/video equipment into sub-standard in the wall electrical wiring. My electrical sub also used different breakers on those circuits and took extra care with the connections. We also used a series of three ground rods to make sure a solid ground was always available. That to me was over-kill, possibly.
If you're in your own house, I would consider upgrading the electrical wiring your audio/video equipment is plugged into. In my apt. in IL I know it's 40 yr old wiring, thus the Monster and Adcom suppressor/conditioners both used. Using an expensive Signal Cable power cord plugged into an $.85 basic outlet with 14awg romex just doesn't seem right! Look at some of the very nice Leviton outlets, and use the better Leviton switches for lights, etc. that don't introduce as much noise into the circuits. Just my humble opinion!DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Check out the link I added and read up on the pole pig. It conditions the entire CCT that it is plugged into and has surge protection for any components that you plug into the outlets provided. the rack mount one Is only one of many options that is offered.
DanRecever AVR 8000
Amp PA 4000
CDR 26
Mains RTI 150 Bi wired
Center CSI 40 Bi wired
Surround FXI 30
Rear RTI 4
Sub PSW 140