What to do......

sowen010599
sowen010599 Posts: 343
About surge suppresion...

So, I live in Western North Texas, basically the worst place in the world if you don't like lightning, billion mile-an-hour winds, Volkswagen size hail, and (my favorite) tornadoes. It is all but unthinkable here to run any expensive electrical device without SOME type of surge protection.

What then? I know my RX-V2400 sounds notably better when connected straight to the wall with my Signal Cable MagicPower cable. So what do I do? It scares me to plug it straight into the wall because I know the first time I do, I will forget about it, and at 3am a tornadic super-cell will come pounding though blowing my gear up.

Signal Cable needs to make a MagicSurgeProtector! I'd be all over that!
Go BIG or go home!
Post edited by sowen010599 on

Comments

  • gmorris
    gmorris Posts: 1,179
    edited August 2004
    Originally posted by sowen010599
    What then? I know my RX-V2400 sounds notably better when connected straight to the wall with my Signal Cable MagicPower cable.

    How do you know that if you don't have a surge protector in the system now? I would suggest you get a high quality surge protector/power conditioner.

    I got a Monster Power MP-HTS2500 MKII for $164 + shipping. http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=monmphts2500&store=&catid=4100

    After installing the HTS2500 in my system, I actually noted a increase in high end (treble) performance & less noise.

    Or, you could cover your house in tin foil.....
    Bob Mayo, on the keyboards. Bob Mayo.
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,040
    edited August 2004
    Or, you could cover your house in tin foil..... [/B][/QUOTE]

    you think tin foil will help against a tornado !! must be the heavy duty kind !!
  • sowen010599
    sowen010599 Posts: 343
    edited August 2004
    I've tried a couple different surge protectors. I'll get the one you mention. The others I've tried literally sucked the life from my system.
    Go BIG or go home!
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,040
    edited August 2004
    did you read the post by dkg999 on ........last night ??
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited August 2004
    I use a Monster Power 5000 series (can't remember the exact number) and an Adcom ACE-515 and have just about all the HT, Stereo, and PC equipment running off of those. The PC also has an additional Belkin surge suppressor being used. In my apt. I don't have the luxury of moving outlets, so it's a little convoluted, but it works. I agree that the Monster, or the Adcom, do make my amps sound better. I just wish either one had a few more outlets for amplifiers, as I have four currently. At my house at the farm in IA, I have an industrial power conditioner/surge suppressor running right off of the 200 amp breaker panel that all the circuits for the computer equipment and audio/video are run from. You can pick these up sometimes on eBay or other industrial equipment auction sites pretty reasonable. These are used to protect the motors in expensive lab and production equipment. I paid $240 for mine and it will protect up to 60 amps worth of circuits and produces incredibly clean power. Mine is made by Dayton Industrial. It also has a soft-shutdown feature is the electricity goes off, and will smooth out flickers in the electricity during a storm. It won't help during an IA tornado, much less a Texas size twister!

    Edit - just noticed the post before. I tried a cheap AR surge suppressor/power conditioner on my bedroom HT setup and it literally sucked the life out of my Yamaha HTR-5660. I'm going to try a straight surge suppressor on it, hopefully with better luck!
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • Fireman99
    Fireman99 Posts: 129
    edited August 2004
    This is what the doctor ordered for you. Gona set you back some good coin though.
    Dan

    http://www.audiolinesource.com/index2.html

    Whoops forgot link
    Recever AVR 8000
    Amp PA 4000
    CDR 26
    Mains RTI 150 Bi wired
    Center CSI 40 Bi wired
    Surround FXI 30
    Rear RTI 4
    Sub PSW 140
  • gmorris
    gmorris Posts: 1,179
    edited August 2004
    Again I'll recommend the HTS2500 MKII. That link I provided above IS an authorized internet reseller. I confirmed that with Monster Cable Customer Service. I ordered from that site, and everything went perfect. They had it shipped the next day. And you will NOT find a lower price for a brand new, WITH warranty unit. (trust me, I tried)

    With the 2500 MKII, you get a $100,000 Connected Equipment Warranty.
    Bob Mayo, on the keyboards. Bob Mayo.
  • sowen010599
    sowen010599 Posts: 343
    edited August 2004
    *sigh*

    I think I am gonna need a bigger rack. Mine's packed. Gonna try the Monster MKII. Should be here in a few days. Still have to find somewhere to put it though.

    I wonder if there is anything to be gained from upgrading the wiring from the wall to the breaker box. Honestly, have you ever seen that stuff? The wire and outlet is crap! We buy these sweet arse power cables and plug them into crap. Makes me wonder.
    Go BIG or go home!
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited August 2004
    When I wired my house, I used a higher grade of 12awg 110v wire than normally found at the Lowes/Home Depot stores ... for the audio/video/PC circuits. I went to an actual electrical supply store and in consultation with my electrical sub used some more expensive (about 30%) wire on those runs. Does it make a difference, not sure and can't scientifically prove that it does. In theory it should. I do agree with your comment on plugging expensive audio/video equipment into sub-standard in the wall electrical wiring. My electrical sub also used different breakers on those circuits and took extra care with the connections. We also used a series of three ground rods to make sure a solid ground was always available. That to me was over-kill, possibly.

    If you're in your own house, I would consider upgrading the electrical wiring your audio/video equipment is plugged into. In my apt. in IL I know it's 40 yr old wiring, thus the Monster and Adcom suppressor/conditioners both used. Using an expensive Signal Cable power cord plugged into an $.85 basic outlet with 14awg romex just doesn't seem right! Look at some of the very nice Leviton outlets, and use the better Leviton switches for lights, etc. that don't introduce as much noise into the circuits. Just my humble opinion!
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • Fireman99
    Fireman99 Posts: 129
    edited August 2004
    Check out the link I added and read up on the pole pig. It conditions the entire CCT that it is plugged into and has surge protection for any components that you plug into the outlets provided. the rack mount one Is only one of many options that is offered.
    Dan
    Recever AVR 8000
    Amp PA 4000
    CDR 26
    Mains RTI 150 Bi wired
    Center CSI 40 Bi wired
    Surround FXI 30
    Rear RTI 4
    Sub PSW 140