Purchased new Polk system. Comments requested...

TechLarry

Good morning all...

This last week I purchased a new Polk system from Tweeter as follows:

Rti-10 Mains
CSi-3 Center
Fxi-3 Rears

I'm continuing to use my current Yamaha SW3 Sub which came with a rather nice Satellite system I bought 6 years ago. I'll probably replace it eventually (the 505 seems like a likely suspect), but I need to recover from the above purchase first

I've had a few set's of Polks over the years, and I've always loved them.

In late 80's I had a set of SDA-2A's that were great, but I could not move those monsters from San Diego back to Virginia with me. Only problem I ever had with them was they liked to snack on NAD amplifiers

In the mid 90's I had a set of LS90 Rosewoods. Man did I adore those speakers. I had to sell them due to another move. That really broke my heart

Now I have the above setup.

A couple of questions...

I can (at no loss) take the Csi-3 back and exchange it for the Csi-5. It's considerably more money, but I'm willing to do it IF it seems like the right thing to do.

The gent that helped me put the system together (and other reps at the store) feel the Csi-3 is a better match. They feel the Csi-5 is a bit 'much' and doesn't sound as good overall.

Considering they are basically turning down an extra $200 in this recommendation, I can't help but feel they are trying to steer me in the right direction.

What do you folks think?

The specs say the Csi-5 is a bit taller and wider than the Csi-3, but is about 1/4" less in depth. When I look at the pictures and see those ports on the back, I have a bit of trouble believing the spec. Are they actually a bit less deep than the Csi-3's ?

This is important because I have a Samsung DLP5050 (The 'Kirk') TV, and as you know there's no place to put a center on these types of TV's. I went to Lowes and got a nice 24" wide by 9"deep Oak shelf kit and mounted it above and behind the TV. It fits perfectly. The Zip-Its I used to mount it state they can hold 50 pounds each, and there are 4 of them, so I don't think the extra 9 pounds of weight would be an issue.

I know the Csi-5 also has a 'kickstand' on the back, but I think the rear slope on my Sammy is a bit too steep even for that.

So, will the Csi-5 actually fit on the same shelf?

For reference, I'm using a Yamaha RXV-2400 Receiver and the built-in Mic and setup system did a pretty nice job of setting up the levels and such for all the speakers. I think it took a bit too much bass from the Rti-10's, but I can work on that manually. It sets things as close to THX spec as possible, and not everything about THX agree's with everyone

I have NO problem paying the extra $200 for the Csi-5, I just want to make sure it's a good, proper match for the Rti-10's before I go through the trouble.

Of course I am going to go and do some in-person comparison's tonight, but I wanted other opinions as well.

If this helps, I was originally going to get the Rti-12's, but I felt the midrange was a bit boomy to suit me.

Finally, a question about the Rti series overall. I thought these were the latest Polk speakers, but I'm a bit confused now. I see references to the Monitor series being newer, and replacing the Rti-series. am I just mis-reading something?

Also, if the Rti's are Polks latest, why the clear-out at Circuit City?

Thanks

-Larry

gmorris

The Monitor line is indeed newer, but it is not a replacement for the RTi line. Someone else will chime in with all the details. The Monitor & RTi lines are two seperate lines.

Willow

I think this is how is goes LSi, Rti,monitor if I'm not mistaken
I beleive it was to have a entry model rti better lsi best

faster100

your correct, The Monitor series is in between The R and Rti series... Supposed to be a great value speaker, However the current Rti line is still in production just not at Circuit city..
your speakers are a current line... Great choice, however id say the Csi5 is the better speaker.. and matches the Rti10 fine. If you had a bookshelf as mains i would say stay with the csi3... large mains can benifit from a large center.. to make a nice full front stage...

TechLarry

Wow, you guys are fast

So, if I understand right...

Monitor - Good
Rti - Better
LSi - Best

Right ?

-Larry

Originally posted by Willow
I think this is how is goes LSi, Rti,monitor if I'm not mistaken
I beleive it was to have a entry model rti better lsi best

faster100

Originally posted by TechLarry
Wow, you guys are fast

So, if I understand right...

Monitor - Good
Rti - Better
LSi - Best

Right ?

-Larry

price and workmanship yes, personal preferences also play into this answer, I like the Rti's... Never heard the monitors, and the Lsi's are very demanding and critical on placement.. so they are not for everyone.. although the highest quality polk offers besides vintage polks...

TechLarry

Thanks for the info guys!

I believe I will pack up the Csi-3 tonight and take a trip down to Tweeter to listen to the Csi-5.

It's only a 5 min job so even if I do come back with the same Csi-3 it's no real time lost.

I need to take a ruler though. From the pictures, I have a hard time believing the 5's are actually 1/4" shallower than the 3's with those ports on the back.

But you never know!

-Larry

Early B.

Glad to hear from a life-long Polk fan.

Yeah, definitely go for the Csi5. You'll be glad you did. Not sure why the salesman told you the Csi3 would work better for you.

You're right about your subwoofer. Once you've recovered from these purchases, consider purchasing an SVS or a Hsu subwoofer.

With your current speakers, Yamaha receiver, and eventually a new sub, you'll have an awesome home theater system.

How large is your room?

Early B.

Dimensions for Csi3: 6 7/8" high, 20" wide, 9 1/4" deep

Csi5: 7.5" high, 24" wide, 14.5" deep

Not sure your shelf will accomodate the Csi5, but several folks on this forum can give you some good ideas about how to mount it, if necessary.

scottnbnj

Originally posted by TechLarry
I went to Lowes and got a nice 24" wide by 9"deep Oak shelf kit and mounted it above and behind the TV. It fits perfectly. The Zip-Its I used to mount it state they can hold 50 pounds each, and there are 4 of them, so I don't think the extra 9 pounds of weight would be an issue.

zip-its are a last resort and sort of hokey for a shelf. 50 pounds is probably the the max shear load. safety load (to maintain safety in the real living world) is 1/4 of that. but to make the numbers useful (beyond just a comparison with other anchors) there's a formula that plugs in tensile load, the height and depth of the back and shelf (respectively), where the load is concentrated on the shelf and the thickness and installation details of the drywall and your ability to mount them properly. the 50 lb. number is similar to amplifier power ratings.

if the shelf is 24" wide, you should be able to catch 2 studs. even if your studs are 24" on center and you can only catch one, you'd do better to get a screw or two in that, then if you want a couple of zip-its to balance the load a bit too, then go ahead.

just predrill the shelf a hair bigger than the screw and use a screw that will bite the stud about 1 1/2" to 2". deck screws (home center lumber or hardware section) would work nicely because you won't have to predrill the stud if you have a drill to drive them in with. oh,.. unless you have steel studs, then use screws made for steel studs.

if you need help finding studs or anything else, send a pm or post to the thread.

)

TechLarry

The living room is kind of an L-shaped thing (living and dining in the same space). It is about 18 feet deep, and 30 feet across, including the dining leg.

If I were to 'box' the area where the living room alone is, I'd say it is about 18X12.

-Larry

Originally posted by Early B.
Glad to hear from a life-long Polk fan.

Yeah, definitely go for the Csi5. You'll be glad you did. Not sure why the salesman told you the Csi3 would work better for you.

You're right about your subwoofer. Once you've recovered from these purchases, consider purchasing an SVS or a Hsu subwoofer.

With your current speakers, Yamaha receiver, and eventually a new sub, you'll have an awesome home theater system.

How large is your room?

TechLarry

14.5" deep! Oh, my. That will definitely be an issue!

The published specs aren't anything close to that!

-Larry

Originally posted by Early B.
Dimensions for Csi3: 6 7/8" high, 20" wide, 9 1/4" deep

Csi5: 7.5" high, 24" wide, 14.5" deep

Not sure your shelf will accomodate the Csi5, but several folks on this forum can give you some good ideas about how to mount it, if necessary.

Early B.

18' by 30'.
Hmmm. Me say big room equal big sub. Maybe two.

TechLarry

To be honest, I've used Zip-it's to mount everything from Gibson Les-Paul's to pictures on the wall, and not a one has ever pulled out or come loose. Maybe I'm just lucky

As for the studs, because of where the shelf _has_ to be (centered on the TV that cannot be relocated realistically), there are no studs available. They are WAY away from the vertical mounts for the shelf.

In fact, I could not have missed them any further. There is a stud dead center where the shelf is, and that makes the others 16" off on each side, well beyond the ends of the shelf.

That doesn't mean I can't buy another one of the shelves (they are only $19) and use one of it's verticle supports in the dead center where the Stud is. That should do it.

I gotta get my head wrapped around that 14" depth thing though. That screws up ALL my plans.

-Larry

Originally posted by scottnbnj
zip-its are a last resort and sort of hokey for a shelf. 50 pounds is probably the the max shear load. safety load (to maintain safety in the real living world) is 1/4 of that. but to make the numbers useful (beyond just a comparison with other anchors) there's a formula that plugs in tensile load, the height and depth of the back and shelf (respectively), where the load is concentrated on the shelf and the thickness and installation details of the drywall and your ability to mount them properly. the 50 lb. number is similar to amplifier power ratings.

if the shelf is 24" wide, you should be able to catch 2 studs. even if your studs are 24" on center and you can only catch one, you'd do better to get a screw or two in that, then if you want a couple of zip-its to balance the load a bit too, then go ahead.

just predrill the shelf a hair bigger than the screw and use a screw that will bite the stud about 1 1/2" to 2". deck screws (home center lumber or hardware section) would work nicely because you won't have to predrill the stud if you have a drill to drive them in with. oh,.. unless you have steel studs, then use screws made for steel studs.

if you need help finding studs or anything else, send a pm or post to the thread.

)

Early B.

14.5" deep! Oh, my. That will definitely be an issue! The published specs aren't anywhere close to that!

The specs I quoted came from this web site.

TechLarry

My old Yamaha PSW3 actually does a respectable job, and it's a 10", 100 watt.

More is better though

I was thinking of the PSW505. Any thoughts?

-Larry

Originally posted by Early B.
18' by 30'.
Hmmm. Me say big room equal big sub. Maybe two.

TechLarry

Well, I just checked it too again. You are right of course.

I KNOW I have a piece of Polk literature around here somewhere that says the depth on the 5 is 9". I'll have to find that just to satisfy my own mind on this and prove I'm not going insane

I think the CSI-3 will have to stay. I simply have no way to deal with a 14" deep center.

Even the kickstand on the back of the Csi-5 doesn't stand a chance. At 14" deep, the rear of the center is so far back, and the back of the TV slopes so sharply, it would have to be a foot long

I think I'll just forget the Csi-5 idea and put the money towards the PSW505 instead.

Unless there is a reason I should NOT go for that sub...

Thanks

-Larry

Originally posted by Early B.
The specs I quoted came from this web site.

faster100

The 505 will do a pretty good job, But for that size room... you will never pressurize it with heavy bass.. you always have 30 days return if its not what you like. it depends on what kind of bass you like and how loud and deep...

Early B.

Nope. Even though this is a Polk forum, most fellas here will recommend other subwoofers before they offer up the Polk brand. Many of us own SVS or Hsu. I have both of them. In fact, one of them replaced a Yamaha sub. No comparison whatsoever. The right sub will take your home theater experience to an entirely different dimension, so I'd suggest you save up for a good sub.

scottnbnj

Originally posted by TechLarry
To be honest, I've used Zip-it's to mount everything from Gibson Les-Paul's to pictures on the wall, and not a one has ever pulled out or come loose. Maybe I'm just lucky

just my humble opinion.

Originally posted by TechLarry
In fact, I could not have missed them any further. There is a stud dead center where the shelf is, and that makes the others 16" off on each side, well beyond the ends of the shelf.

That doesn't mean I can't buy another one of the shelves (they are only $19) and use one of it's verticle supports in the dead center where the Stud is. That should do it.

i get it, the shelf does not have a back, just braces with keyholes. as i said, one stud is better than none.

probably the easiest way to catch the center stud would be an L bracket with the leg of the L pointed up (hidden by speaker) and the shelf resting on the foot.

it would be better than betting the monitor and speak on zip-its and drywall alone.

)

TechLarry

Actually, that's not a bad idea. I think the TV would block the view of the L-Bracket anyway, and I wouldn't have to go to Lowes again. I think I have one in the garage

That would also help stabilize the shelf (not that it's going anywhere) since it 'floats' on top of the mounts.

BTW... Here is the shelf I used...

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=62324-1170-0197092

It's a pretty serious hunk of wood

-Larry

Originally posted by scottnbnj
just my humble opinion.



i get it, the shelf does not have a back, just braces with keyholes. as i said, one stud is better than none.

probably the easiest way to catch the center stud would be an L bracket with the leg of the L pointed up (hidden by speaker) and the shelf resting on the foot.

it would be better than betting the monitor and speak on zip-its and drywall alone.

)

TechLarry

Well, I've done some research. I'd love a high-end sub, but I just spend, well, too much on this system already (including a $4000 TV!), so I have to throttle my expectations a bit.

I do want to replace the Yammy 10". It's a damned nice sub that has served faithfully for 5 years with the satellites it came with, but I just don't think it's up to the task anymore at only 100 watts.

Staying in the $350-$500 range, I've come up with one that I think might do nicely.

The Definitive Technology ProSub 100.

Everything I've read so far says it out-performs it's price by a wide margin, and at 250 watts true power it should do fine.

The room is actually more like 18X24, with the 'viewing area' about 18X12.

For $400, I think this might fill the bill.

I'm going to go listen to it tonight and compare it with some Velodyne's, Bostons, Sunfire's, etc...

Don't think I'll like the Bostons. Their low end reach isn't that great.

This 10" DT goes down to 19hz!

Thanks again

-Larry

Early B.

If you're content with the Def Tech, that's fine, but for the same price you can get a Hsu STF-2. It also has a 250 watt amp, but don't get hung up on the specs. The Hsu VTF-2/STF-2 sub is the most highly regarded sub is its class. You won't be disappointed. Check out the 100+ consumer reviews on www.audioreview.com.

coolfishy101

For a sub around 500$ I would go for a Velodyne. A cht12 or cht15 would do the job. I have heard a cht12 in a 30' by 18' room and it souds amazing.

VR3

Def Techs subs are incredibly boomy, atleast the smaller models.

You would be best waiting for SVS to release the 10" monster they have concocted..

scottvamp

Hey Larry - Ya, wait and go with the new $400 SVS sub. No reason to look any farther.
Out of pure couriosity what "TV" did you got for your $4000???

TechLarry

The TV is the Samsung HLP5085 'Captain Kirk'.

As for the Sub, the Definitive Technology Prosub 100 (250 watt) is working out nicely.

I took the floor model home as a Loaner until mine comes in. This allowed me to test it 'broken in' until Tuesday when mine comes in.

To be honest, it's working out quite nicely. It fits in smoothly with my room and the Rti-10's. It has plenty of power and is invisible to isolation.

No one around here sells SVS subs. Or HSU's for that matter.

I'm not much for mail-order electronics, except for small stuff.

Also, if I want to upgrade later when I have more money for one of the upper range Velodyne's, I can take it back within a year and get 100% trade-in credit for it towards the new sub. I figure I could do this every 8 months or so and eventually stair-step my way up to one of the higher-end Velodyne's that I just don't have the money for right now.

But really, the Prosub 100 is pretty damned fine for it's size and price. It is a major improvement over the 100 watt Yamaha SW3 (decent in it's own right) so I'm quite happy with it.

While I was at the store I saw an interesting little animal called the Sunfire SuperJunior. I've never seen anything quite like this Sub. The thing is only like 9" square, but feels like it is full of concrete. It's HEAVY! It also has a 1500 watt amplifier, which astonished me. Apparantly it needs that much power because it's a sealed system with dual 8" drivers. It actually sounds quite amazing for it's size.

It's also VERY active when in operation. Trying to pick this thing up while it's working is like trying to pick up a handful of King Cobra's. I swear it would do bodily harm if it caught you the wrong way

It was on clearance from $1000 for $600, which is still out of my price range right now though.

-Larry

Originally posted by scottvamp
Hey Larry - Ya, wait and go with the new $400 SVS sub. No reason to look any farther.
Out of pure couriosity what "TV" did you got for your $4000???

TechLarry

Well, after 3 or 4 days of use, I determined that whoever said this wouldn't be enough for my room was right.

It ain't enough.

I decided I'm tired of farting around with this, and that this is exactly the situation for which God created plastic

I went ahead and got the Sub I was going to work my way up to and got it over with.

I picked up a Velodyne SPL-1000 Series II, and life is VERY good in Bass land right now

It cost me double my budget, but at least I'm where I wanted to be and don't have to worry about it for another 10 years now

Thanks to everyone for their help!

-Larry

BTW... Pressurizing the room is no longer an issue. But now I have to run around the house and Bass-Proof a few things. Like the rattling Fireplace curtain, chandelier, coffee-table glass inserts, dog collars, etc...