M&K Subwoofer Circuit Board Problems - Questions, Help Needed

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,646
edited July 2004 in Subwoofer Hookup & Bass Management
Hey Guys,
I was over at Des's house and the subwoofer would not turn on.

So I brought it over to my Dad's house to take a further look at it since he had more tools available to work with.

Well, We were messing around looking for stuff that had become un-soldered, etc - and we found the piece.

It is like a rectangular piece that become undone, so we tried gluing it back -- but it wouldnt hold, so I peeled off the glue around it, and figure we would wait it out till we got a solder gun available to us.

My question is, how exactly do you go about resoldering a circuit board? What are you soldering to exactly?

Can someone out there with experience please give me some basic instructions? Thank You in advance!
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
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Comments

  • Loud & Clear
    Loud & Clear Posts: 1,538
    edited July 2004
    Nice story, Sid, but come on, we all know your dad blew something off of the PC-Ultra's circuit board. ;>} Good luck with the soldering.

    Two Channel Setup:

    Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 2-3
    Integrated Amp: Krell S-300i
    DAC: Arcam irDac
    Source: iMac
    Remote Control: iPad Mini

    3.2 Home Theater Setup:

    Fronts: Klipsch RP-160M
    Center: Klipsch RP-160M
    Subwoofer: SVS PB12NSD (X 2)
    AVR: Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030
    Blu Ray: Sony BDP-S790
    TV Source: DirecTV Genie
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  • phoneisbusy
    phoneisbusy Posts: 867
    edited July 2004
    Hi Sid,

    Any chance of a picture or two? The description is vague.
    Can't say that I'd be able to help though but I can try.

    Good luck

    Dave
    Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all its students.
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  • Ceruleance
    Ceruleance Posts: 991
    edited July 2004
    if you have never soldered before, a circuit board for something that you care about is not a good place to start. Ask whoever you are borrowing the gun from to do it for you, or take it to the tech. ed. teacher at your school and ask him to do it.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    My Dad did it - we tried our best, but didnt work.

    Apparently, this circuit board has been repaired before -- several times might I add...

    So this thing was bound to give up anyways

    I decided to order a 120 watt amp from PE and call it a day...

    I am taking out all of the old electronics in this M&K as we speak!

    Either way, it would have cost about the same for M&K to fix it, plus who is to say it wouldnt have broke again??

    Not to mention this new amp looks to be much better, actually has a phase switch!

    Anyways - thanks for all the replies on and off the boards...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    We modified the old amp hole to match the new amp --

    And I removed all of the old electronics and sealed the holes with the screws --

    Now we are just waiting on an amp...


    A modified M&K! Interesting...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    Anyone wanna see pictures of the mods? --

    Any interest in being interested of a possibly interesting modification that could bring interesting results? If yall are interested that is...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited July 2004
    Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3

    Any interest in being interested of a possibly interesting modification that could bring interesting results? If yall are interested that is...

    yeah we have plenty of interest, so it seems.....
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2

    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC
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  • Dr. Spec
    Dr. Spec Posts: 3,780
    edited July 2004
    Might as well throw in a few new Dayton 12" woofers while you're at it and go for the whole rebuild.
    "What we do in life echoes in eternity"

    Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
    Director - Technology and Customer Service
    SVS
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  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited July 2004
    I would think by using the parts express amp you might end up causing more damage to the sub. I would imagine that M&K has some kind of equalization built into the original amp to work with the woofers that the sub was designed around. Without that equalization you may blow the other driver pretty easily...

    I agree with Doc, you might as well just build her another sub...
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    I dont see how M&K using a EQ to make the driver play louder would help it at all consider it waffles like crazy with the original amp.

    I was planning to fix the old one, or get a replacement.

    When we soldered it back, it worked for a lil bit -- but then cut off and wouldnt work again, and I wasnt about to send this 15 year old generic amp to M&K and them repair it for 70-90 bucks + shipping, that would be crazy.

    I don't see exactly how a different amp could mess with it exactly - but I guess that goes back to what Russ said, I havnt evolved into audio as much as others on here it seems.

    But I think it would be even on the dumber side of things to replace the driver, since -

    1) it is a push pull design
    2) the drivers are matched for this enclosure

    I just don't see it. Either way, I don't see how this will hurt it. Especially if M&K eqd' those drivers, considering the fact they waffle at high volumes no how - heck maybe this amp will clean it up.

    I know it's not the best route, but it is definetely the most assuring by far, and a lil more up to date...

    I don't see how it would be any different then me buying a driver on PE, buying the amp, getting an enclosure and slapping it all together. Please explain (without bashing)

    Don't forget I will only be powering one driver - not two....

    Only way I know of is to try it out --

    If it DOES NOT** work, I will have to order a MX 125 amp for this thing and go back to work on the enclosure.... BLAH

    I am just trying to get it WORKING... (and if it does not perform right, I wont use it)

    If M&K's drivers costs 83 bucks...then I would HATE to see what their amps cost - I am guessing in the 200 range
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    Heck, While I am in a completely confused state of mind --

    Let me ask a whole bunch of questions

    Question 1) - What is the difference of keeping the OLD M&K amp in there, replacing the M&K drivers with Dayton drivers - will the Dayton drivers blow then? I don't think so

    Question 2) Since I highly doubt the answer to number one is YES - I am going to ask what the difference of using the M&K drivers in THEIR enclosure, with a different, obviously BETTER amp over the Daytons or any other woofer.

    Not to mention, if I am very cautious of turning up, listening for distortion - etc

    What I might do is, I might get a LOW PASS Filter to go on the connectors to stop out the low stuff, below 30hz...

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=266-248 - right there

    But - first I will try it without that and see how it runs...

    I dont see this at all...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited July 2004
    wtf?

    y don't u just give up on the 15 yr old sub and build her sumthin useful. buildin a sub will be fun and if u already have an enclosure it shouldnt be that expensive.

    you can find sub drivers that will work in that enclosure
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    I dont think you read any of this thread dude...LOL

    This design will be alot harder to match drivers on dude...

    It is a push pull design, matched for that enclosure -- not even gonna bother to mess with it, however if the drivers DO blow...that will be an option - dont fix whats not broken...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited July 2004
    dont fix what isnt broken? wtf r u talkin about lol it is broken.

    could u stick a PR in the other drivers spot to make it work?
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited July 2004
    Aside from all the trash yall talked and all that mess, this things works like a charm. Sounds great! Sounds the same, if not better than before.

    Now..time...to crank..it...up...before...I..gotta...return it....

    Thank you all for the discouragement and incouragement! ;)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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