Polk Grille Retention Methods
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motorcityguy
Posts: 70
Was digging through my Polk Monitor 10 files and thought it might be helpful to share this information on the different methods of grille retention. My data is for the Monitor 10, but most of these retention methods have been used on other models as well.
The Monitor 10 has had FIVE different grille attachment methods, over the years. Chronologically, they are as follows:
1. The earliest M10s used what I'll call a "velcro" attachment. It really wasn't actual fabric velcro, but rather was a plastic version of interlocking fingers. The picture below shows what it looked like on the speakers. This method is well-hated, as it requires great force to install and remove it. This method of retention is typically found on early 10s (pre 10A)--the ones that still have brown (not black) cabinet baffle.
2. The next version of grille retention was a large jelly-bean peg. These were quite sturdy and seldom break. These are usually found on later 10s and early 10A's. Here's a picture.
3. Next came the ball-stud design that is perhaps the most familiar of all the methods. But you may not be aware there are TWO sizes of the ball-stud. The first version used a larger ball. These are typically found on later 10A speakers. Here's a picture:
4. Then came the "small" ball-stud. It's typically found on the Monitor 10B. Here's a picture of the small ball-stud, and then a picture comparing the 2 different ball-stud sizes.
5. Lastly, there is the design I call the "reverse peg." I call it that, because the peg is actually on the grille, and hole is in the speaker cabinet (instead of the grille). This is found on Series 2 Monitor 10's, but not all of them. (I've seen earlier Series 2 speakers with the small ball-stud grille retention feature.)
Of course the grilles themselves are different for each of these retention methods. But there are also grille SIZE differences, independent of the retention method. Sizes vary slightly depending on the speaker version and cabinet style. Some of us have learned this the hard way, when trying to replace grilles on a Monitor 10 speaker! Maybe I should do a post on that as well?
The Monitor 10 has had FIVE different grille attachment methods, over the years. Chronologically, they are as follows:
1. The earliest M10s used what I'll call a "velcro" attachment. It really wasn't actual fabric velcro, but rather was a plastic version of interlocking fingers. The picture below shows what it looked like on the speakers. This method is well-hated, as it requires great force to install and remove it. This method of retention is typically found on early 10s (pre 10A)--the ones that still have brown (not black) cabinet baffle.
2. The next version of grille retention was a large jelly-bean peg. These were quite sturdy and seldom break. These are usually found on later 10s and early 10A's. Here's a picture.
3. Next came the ball-stud design that is perhaps the most familiar of all the methods. But you may not be aware there are TWO sizes of the ball-stud. The first version used a larger ball. These are typically found on later 10A speakers. Here's a picture:
4. Then came the "small" ball-stud. It's typically found on the Monitor 10B. Here's a picture of the small ball-stud, and then a picture comparing the 2 different ball-stud sizes.
5. Lastly, there is the design I call the "reverse peg." I call it that, because the peg is actually on the grille, and hole is in the speaker cabinet (instead of the grille). This is found on Series 2 Monitor 10's, but not all of them. (I've seen earlier Series 2 speakers with the small ball-stud grille retention feature.)
Of course the grilles themselves are different for each of these retention methods. But there are also grille SIZE differences, independent of the retention method. Sizes vary slightly depending on the speaker version and cabinet style. Some of us have learned this the hard way, when trying to replace grilles on a Monitor 10 speaker! Maybe I should do a post on that as well?