Willsenton R8 Integrated Review
kevhed72
Posts: 5,174
It has been awhile since I plugged this beauty in and started listening, with good reason. Let’s start with the other gear in the rig:
Polk L200 speakers
REL T7i subs
Eastern Electric Minimax DAC
WiiM Ultra Streamer
Isotek Elektra Power,Conditioner
MIT S1/S2 Shotgun cables
Source is Qobuz
The integrated is the EL34 version and right now all tubes are Psvane and a pair of Tung Sol for the 6sl7s. This unit was purchased from a well established form member in a perfect transaction. Thank you.
I went into this purchase not knowing what to expect, as this was my first foray into an all tubed integrated. The build quality is top notch and when you receive a Willsenton, the unit looks better than the pictures. Tight tolerances and fit and finish through out. I had to be slow and methodical lifting this into my rack, as the last thing I needed was another lower back “outage”. Let’s move on to the sound: stunning all around for my room and associated gear. Detailed, warm, dead quiet on idle, and the bass through my speakers/subs has been outstanding. The unit gets warm, but not ‘scary I may burn down the house’ hot. This purchase has me checking out the single ended versions of Willsenton integrateds. I also see some tube rolling in my future, as I am assuming the 6sl7s are the pre amp tubes in this unit. Thanks again Robert for a flawless transaction and cheers.
Polk L200 speakers
REL T7i subs
Eastern Electric Minimax DAC
WiiM Ultra Streamer
Isotek Elektra Power,Conditioner
MIT S1/S2 Shotgun cables
Source is Qobuz
The integrated is the EL34 version and right now all tubes are Psvane and a pair of Tung Sol for the 6sl7s. This unit was purchased from a well established form member in a perfect transaction. Thank you.
I went into this purchase not knowing what to expect, as this was my first foray into an all tubed integrated. The build quality is top notch and when you receive a Willsenton, the unit looks better than the pictures. Tight tolerances and fit and finish through out. I had to be slow and methodical lifting this into my rack, as the last thing I needed was another lower back “outage”. Let’s move on to the sound: stunning all around for my room and associated gear. Detailed, warm, dead quiet on idle, and the bass through my speakers/subs has been outstanding. The unit gets warm, but not ‘scary I may burn down the house’ hot. This purchase has me checking out the single ended versions of Willsenton integrateds. I also see some tube rolling in my future, as I am assuming the 6sl7s are the pre amp tubes in this unit. Thanks again Robert for a flawless transaction and cheers.
Comments
-
pics?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
-
Meh but that's not HIS!- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
It wasn’t at the time that one was taken, but here it is after he got it:
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2809107/#Comment_2809107Brian -
Nice! Looks as good as it sounds.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
6SL7 tubes are the octal version of the 12AU7 electrically. They are a bit less pricey than their cousin the 6SN7. I have an amp that runs 6SL7's and 6V6 power tubes. The best ones are still pricey if you're looking to go old stock, which you should.
My absolute 3 favorite 6SL7 and variant are (no particular order)
1) Brimar CV1985 brown base, 1950's
2) Tung Sol 6SU7GTY (6188) or 6SU7WGT brown base 1950's
3) Sylvania 1950's, short bottle, JAN CHS 6SL7WGT, black plate, sq getter brown base from the 50's
Glad you're enjoying the tube goodness. It is a deep rabbit hole...............and as I can attest, no matter how hard you try, you can never fully come back out....LOL
.
I said a few years ago I was done buying tubes and tube gear.......that was incorrect...lol. Now I am accumulating Russian tubes from the 50's and 60's as well as other variants.
The older 50's and 60's Russian tubes are excellent and sound very, very good. Just be sure to find a correct equvalent and then verify. A company like Schiit who uses both Russian and Chinese tubes designs the gear robust enough you can get away with using a couple variants w/o frying the tranformer/power supply. Like my Valhalla can use Russian 6N1P, 6N23P or 6DJ8/Ecc88.
Have fun
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul! -
mu of a 6SL7 is quite a bit higher than the 12AU7.
both screenshots from RCA RC-20:
https://www.worldradiohistory.com/BOOKSHELF-ARH/Technology/RCA-Books/RCA-Receiving-Tube-Manual-1960-RC-20.pdf
The 6SL7's also not a 12AX7 in an octal package, but it's close(r) and can be used for high gain requirements (e.g., a phono preamp or tape head amp).
https://vinylsavor.blogspot.com/2016/05/tube-of-month-6sl7.html
My Joseph Esmilla-designed "Simple 2A3" amp was designed to use the 6SL7 in the voltage amplifier section (which, admittedly, is neither here nor there). The 6SL7 is a fine dual triode and doesn't have quite the cachet of the (lower-mu) 6SN7, which has helped to keep the prices of the former down.
-
The 12au7 is closer to the 6sn7. Some differences sure, mu is closer though.
