polk r600 what are inductor values as id like to upgrade them all to aircore in the crossover
RobertC814
Posts: 10
. im loving my r600's but i just recently upgraded my tsi300s crossovers. i put air core inductors, resistors and caps in them. they now sound absolutely amazing and better than my r600's. problem is w the 600s there are no values on any of the inductors at all. i can find the resistors as well i think as those are weird too. caps i only need to change 2 of them. another thing is im new so what gauge should i go with when replacing all iron core inductors to air core? i also have an r400 center and i think ill tear that apart too and do the same. im happy overall though with the center and the 600's just i know i can get them to sound even better. this was my first time upgrading a crossover in the tsi's. im very impressed with how good they sound now just crazy. i didnt even go all out at all on them neither not even close. the difference was astounding and im looking for the same. the 600's seem to now be lacking clarity separation, and detail compared to my tsi's which in itself is ridiculous lol. it'll be fun upgrading the 600's along w the 400. another thing they might have about 60 hrs max play time on them. any help or advice is def appreciated. i actually unhooked the 600's and am back using my old tsi's. pretty ridiculous i know, imagine how i feel about that one lol. if anyone is like me and thinks oh you wont be able to tell. well you can def tell a difference. before i forget, i plan to keep all the values the same as stock just like i did w the tsi's. i enclosed a pic of my crossover as i couldnt find one anywhere and hopefully it works
Answers
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Hello,
Welcome to the Polk forum. Since that is a current speaker Polk doesn't make the crossover schematic drawings available. You will have to remove them from the circuit board and measure the value yourself. -
If they are under warranty, you may void it. Something to think about.
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SeleniumFalcon wrote: »Hello,
Welcome to the Polk forum. Since that is a current speaker Polk doesn't make the crossover schematic drawings available. You will have to remove them from the circuit board and measure the value yourself.
what do you need to measure them with as i have no idea about this stuff sorry lol. -
If they are under warranty, you may void it. Something to think about.
do i really need the warranty though? highly unlikely anything is going to happen to them. i could be wrong but i dont see the warranty as that important tbh. is the warranty that big of a deal as i simply have no clue is all. worst case i guess i could wait till warranty is up if need be. i think i should be fine though as id think if there was a need for warranty replacement i would know right out of the box. again i could be wrong but im not familiar is all. -
RobertC814 wrote: »what do you need to measure them with as i have no idea about this stuff sorry lol.
The easiest way is with an LCR meter. The unit of measure is in Henrys, mH for millihenries, and uH for microhenries. Two other ways are, (1) with oscilloscope and signal generator and (2) a pulse voltage-current slope.
I've seen inexpensive LCR meters ~ $30 but don't know how accurate they are.
There may be another way. Some say a forum member here that mods xovers (VR3) can touch one and tell you the value. (j/k...maybe? lol)
An old favorite...
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I suggest you upgrade ALL the caps and resistors first. Those yellow mylar caps are slightly better than junk.
Down the if you still have the itch, look into upgrading the coils.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What happened to the word, road...lolPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Funny enough, when I replaced the l200 could the mundorf l200 was the correct gauge.
This is probably not to different for the 600.
Dayton wt3 software is a good choice to measure coils resistors caps etc
Either way, prepare to open your wallet because low gauge air core inductors are $$$$- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Funny enough, when I replaced the l200 could the mundorf l200 was the correct gauge.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The (series) iron core replacements to air core aligned with the mundorf l200 series
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/-c-61_174_238_244.html
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
SCompRacer wrote: »RobertC814 wrote: »what do you need to measure them with as i have no idea about this stuff sorry lol.
The easiest way is with an LCR meter. The unit of measure is in Henrys, mH for millihenries, and uH for microhenries. Two other ways are, (1) with oscilloscope and signal generator and (2) a pulse voltage-current slope.
I've seen inexpensive LCR meters ~ $30 but don't know how accurate they are.
There may be another way. Some say a forum member here that mods xovers (VR3) can touch one and tell you the value. (j/k...maybe? lol)
An old favorite...
I love the old favorite lmao. Thanks for the great info as I'll look into it for sure. They should have the values stated on them like the tsi does. Hopefully they put the schematics out soon as that would be phenomenal. -
I suggest you upgrade ALL the caps and resistors first. Those yellow mylar caps are slightly better than junk.
Down the if you still have the itch, look into upgrading the coils.
I suppose I could try all the caps and resistors first and see what happens. I do however still want to upgrade inductor as well for sure. -
Funny enough, when I replaced the l200 could the mundorf l200 was the correct gauge.
This is probably not to different for the 600.
Dayton wt3 software is a good choice to measure coils resistors caps etc
Either way, prepare to open your wallet because low gauge air core inductors are $$$$
Good to know, that's ok as I'll get whatever needed. I already know that they'll def be worth it. -
Funny enough, when I replaced the l200 could the mundorf l200 was the correct gauge.
I'd agree haha -
I suggest you upgrade ALL the caps and resistors first. Those yellow mylar caps are slightly better than junk.
Down the if you still have the itch, look into upgrading the coils.
What caps and resistors do you recommend? Also what changes have u noticed when using your recommendations? -
Clarity CSA or Jantzen Superior caps. Mills/Vishay resistors.
Mo' better sound!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Bear in mind that there are two parameters to consider with the inductors @RobertC814 -- the inductance and also the DC resistance. A cored inductor of any given value has a lot less wire in it than does an air core inductor. The DC resistance is in series with the inductance in the crossover, and the values of the other components in the XO are keyed to the specific inductor design chosen. Just swapping in an air core choke will have an effect on the XO's performance. Likely subtle, but almost certainly measurable and possibly audible, too.
You've gotten good advice. Capacitors (and the power resistors, too, per prevailing, empirical wisdom on decades of Polk loudspeaker design).
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mhardy6647 wrote: »Bear in mind that there are two parameters to consider with the inductors @RobertC814 -- the inductance and also the DC resistance. A cored inductor of any given value has a lot less wire in it than does an air core inductor. The DC resistance is in series with the inductance in the crossover, and the values of the other components in the XO are keyed to the specific inductor design chosen. Just swapping in an air core choke will have an effect on the XO's performance. Likely subtle, but almost certainly measurable and possibly audible, too.
You've gotten good advice. Capacitors (and the power resistors, too, per prevailing, empirical wisdom on decades of Polk loudspeaker design).
i appreciate you letting me know that as i had no clue. i think i will def upgrade the caps and resistors and see what happens. if im still not satisfied then i will simply go further. thanks again for sharing your knowledge with me. i dont know much of anything but im trying to learn. -
Clarity CSA or Jantzen Superior caps. Mills/Vishay resistors.
Mo' better sound!
i appreciate the recommendations F1. ill def look into those and choose accordingly for sure. thanks again for sharing info w me. i truly do appreciate it