Model 10 or 10A and How To Care/Protect

jhouli
jhouli Posts: 8
in Vintage Speakers
Brand new to the forum. Recently purchased a pair of Model 10 speakers through Marketplace. These have Natural Walnut veneer. Came with original boxes. Here are some pics. I wanted to confirm correct model. More importantly, I wanted to know how to update the caps, epoxy the 6.5 inch drivers and any other suggestions to update/protect my speakers. Thank you for your help!
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    edited September 30
    Those are 10A. Peerless tweeters/MW6500 silver basket midwoofers. Nice score to get natural veneered ones in original boxes. Was it the original owner?

    If you remove one of the midwoofers you will see the label which will have a date scribbled or stamped on it. Post a picture. If you remove the passive radiator or the crossover itself you can get access to the date on it and could take a photo also. Those passive radiators look like the center flat plateau is smaller than the ones on my mid Sep 1979 silver basket 7Bs so I'm going to guess yours are earlier.

    First thing I'd do is clean those fuseholders/fuses and verify that it is a 1A Fast Blow fuse in there. The crinkly filament makes me think it is too high an amperage fuse right now.

    To start off I'd use the search and you'll find lots of threads people have done on each of the standard mods, and specifically Monitor 10s, and then if you have more specific questions you can ask those. But that will get you loads of information.

    If you had Model 10 (not 10A) and they were early enough, they would have dual fuses and Audax tweeters and maybe the midwoofers would have the Copper Plated Pole Pieces.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • jhouli
    jhouli Posts: 8
    Thank you Gardenstater. Yes, I purchased the speakers from the original owner. He didn’t give me much info and I was too absorbed in checking them out to ask….rookie mistake. I’ll checkout the fuses and clean the receptors. I’ll check out the labels/dates on the drivers as well. I’ll update with pics too. Thanks again.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    edited September 30
    jhouli wrote: »
    Thank you Gardenstater. Yes, I purchased the speakers from the original owner. He didn’t give me much info and I was too absorbed in checking them out to ask….rookie mistake. I’ll checkout the fuses and clean the receptors. I’ll check out the labels/dates on the drivers as well. I’ll update with pics too. Thanks again.

    That'd be great. We never know what mid model variances may have been done and it's adding to the information banks :)

    I'd start by cleaning the dust off the fuseholders and fuse with a cotton swab and alcohol. Depending upon what you have or can get, #0000 steel wool, 1000 grit or finer sandpaper, crocus cloth, pencil eraser.....all those will work to get the corrosion off. Yours should be brass so you won't have to worry about damaging the plating.

    Did you check the midwoofer drivers for voice coil rubbing, presuming you know how?
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,411
    Silver basket MW6500, that is pretty apparent.
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  • jhouli
    jhouli Posts: 8
    Got it, thanks 👍.
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  • jhouli
    jhouli Posts: 8
    Hi Gardenstater:
    I realized I missed the portion of your message about the midwinter drivers. I’m a newbie…I do not know how to check for voice-coil rubbing. Would you please enlighten me? Thank you.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    jhouli wrote: »
    Hi Gardenstater:
    I realized I missed the portion of your message about the midwinter drivers. I’m a newbie…I do not know how to check for voice-coil rubbing. Would you please enlighten me? Thank you.

    You'll hear it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    jhouli wrote: »
    Hi Gardenstater:
    I realized I missed the portion of your message about the midwinter drivers. I’m a newbie…I do not know how to check for voice-coil rubbing. Would you please enlighten me? Thank you.

    No worries, it's easy. You just take thumb and first three fingers and touch the cone where it joins the dust cap, equally spaced preferably, and gently move the cone in and let it come back out a few times. You don't push more than 1/8" or so. Listen/feel for sounds of scraping.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,043
    jhouli wrote: »
    midwinter drivers.

    The Midwoofer of Our Discontent
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  • jhouli
    jhouli Posts: 8
    Got me…should read my comments before posting 🤪.
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  • jhouli
    jhouli Posts: 8
    rx8us7tua99s.jpeg

    Okay, I removed the fuses and Gardenstater was right, they were the wrong fuse. I’ve ordered 1 amp fast blow fuses as suggested. I cleaned the fuse holders as well.
    I tested the midwoofers and found one of them had a scratchy sound. I pulled that one and took a pic of the label. How can I fix that and re-glue/ expoxy all 4 of the MWs to avoid future problems. Or please refer me to the thread that will help me. Thank you!
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    Ahh it's too bad you have a scratchy one. At least it is only one. Lots of us here have fixed them by making a jig or using the loaner that xschop was circulating but unfortunately one of the members that has it has gone into the wind and is not responding and he still has the jig.

    This thread will give you lots of information on fixing them. I don't want to presume that lawdogg has time to keep doing them forever and for everyone, but couldn't hurt to ask. Never hurts to ask!

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/197152/diagnosing-fixing-shifted-polk-mw-drivers#latest

    There are almost as many glues favored as there are forum members.

    JB Weld will be pretty permanent fix, too permanent for my tastes, in case a problem develops with mine and I need to disassemble.

    I used Gorilla Max Strength Clear which works great and isn't impossible to cut out in the future. I found out because one of the 6500s that I glued with it later started rubbing and I was able to get it apart and was glad I didn't use the JB Weld. It yellows with time but I don't care. Take the time to mask off the ferrite to keep it neat or don't worry about it is the other option of course.

    I see that it may be available in a squeeze tube now instead of having to use the caulking gun.

    You do both sides of the ferrite magnet. You can do one side one day and let sit over night, then flip over and do the other side. That's what I did and worked well. Just a fillet between the ferrite and the front plate and the ferrite and the back plate. The cardboard gaskets on the old drivers allow you to set them front down and not scrunch the surrounds.

    You can see how it yellowed after a year or so:

    vpjsd1cp61vv.jpg


    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    edited October 1
    One can always chisel JB Weld off if needed. It's not as permanent as implied, but it will absolutely prevent magnet shift.

    One doesn't need to run complete beads around the magnet with JB Weld either. 4 to 8 spot applications is plenty.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • jhouli
    jhouli Posts: 8
    Thank you for the detailed thread! As a newbie to all of this, I have to admit I’m intimidated in trying to repair my MW. I will reach out to Lawdogg to see if he is still volunteering his time and expertise. Thanks again.
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