CRS 4.1TL - Matching Subwoofer Project
JayMX
Posts: 446
Ok gurus. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a project that's been brewing in by brain for a long time. Need your guidance and suggestions...
Awhile back, I picked up a nearly perfect pair of oak CRS+ (still have the cardboard shims between the grilles and the bezels) basically brand new... I have since acquired a pair of Gimpod boards, 198's, VR3 input plates, and a full set of Larry's rings. Still need subbass inductors, resistors, caps, wiring, and terminals. Not sure if a Dreadnaught is necessary now, but perhaps for phase II.
Here's the plan. I found that my 2.3TL's were just too much for my room and have reserved them in storage for now, but I've been missing SDA something fierce. So I will dive in and do a full update to 4.1TL and build a pair of matching, passive subs for them to sit on. The space I have to work with is approx 20"x20"x24". I don't have to build the cabinets to the full size, but it would be possible to fill the area completely if necessary. I will probably refinish/finish everything in walnut with silver accents. Thinking spikes between the subs and the CRS's for looks as much as isolation (and to hold them in place...)
Here's the ask. The concept diagram below is just that, a concept. I need suggestions for the best most chest-pounding type of configuration you guys can recommend. I have a pair of GFA555II's that I plan on powering the stacks with. One for the CRS's and one for the subs. Thinking miniDSP or something of the like to handle the curves. I really don't care about super low bass, but if they could dig down into the 30Hz realm and still hit hard, I would be 100% ok with that.
If this was your project, what type of cabinet configuration, driver combination would you consider and why?
Awhile back, I picked up a nearly perfect pair of oak CRS+ (still have the cardboard shims between the grilles and the bezels) basically brand new... I have since acquired a pair of Gimpod boards, 198's, VR3 input plates, and a full set of Larry's rings. Still need subbass inductors, resistors, caps, wiring, and terminals. Not sure if a Dreadnaught is necessary now, but perhaps for phase II.
Here's the plan. I found that my 2.3TL's were just too much for my room and have reserved them in storage for now, but I've been missing SDA something fierce. So I will dive in and do a full update to 4.1TL and build a pair of matching, passive subs for them to sit on. The space I have to work with is approx 20"x20"x24". I don't have to build the cabinets to the full size, but it would be possible to fill the area completely if necessary. I will probably refinish/finish everything in walnut with silver accents. Thinking spikes between the subs and the CRS's for looks as much as isolation (and to hold them in place...)
Here's the ask. The concept diagram below is just that, a concept. I need suggestions for the best most chest-pounding type of configuration you guys can recommend. I have a pair of GFA555II's that I plan on powering the stacks with. One for the CRS's and one for the subs. Thinking miniDSP or something of the like to handle the curves. I really don't care about super low bass, but if they could dig down into the 30Hz realm and still hit hard, I would be 100% ok with that.
If this was your project, what type of cabinet configuration, driver combination would you consider and why?
Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩
Comments
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Imo, I would stick with stands then free the subs up to go in the best location of the room. Where the speakers sound best is rarely where the subs sound best.
If adamant on this, I would go for dual 8s in a sealed enclosure for music m maybe dual 10s- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Imo, I would stick with stands then free the subs up to go in the best location of the room. Where the speakers sound best is rarely where the subs sound best.
that's why you cut your massive speakers in half and move the woofers into a different spot in the room? 😂
For me it's less dual subs than it is making your monitors full range....
I did something similar with 8 inch sealed subs. Dirac Live (or something like REW) is absolutely necessary in my room, and that probably has something to do with placement, but also just overall integration. Without dirac my subs fall off a cliff at 30hz, with it they are basically flat to 20hz, and everything is just more coherent and integrated.
Post edited by rooftop59 onLiving Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
I vote dual LF-14'sDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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The grandes are unique in that they are actually putting 4 woofers in different parts of the room. Their in room bass response is great.- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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If adamant on this
Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩 -
Any previews Jay, or you just gonna debut the whole jaw-dropping package at once?Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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I picked up some 198's from @Toolfan66 the other day for the CRS 4.1 TL portion of the project. Still doing research on the subs. I'm now considering doing a pair of Rythmik GRci kits. Servo subs have always intrigued me, sealed enclosures would be simpler, and their amps have a lot of tweakability... Thoughts anyone?
https://www.rythmikaudio.com/GRci.htmlCurrent Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩 -
I picked up some 198's from @Toolfan66 the other day for the CRS 4.1 TL portion of the project. Still doing research on the subs. I'm now considering doing a pair of Rythmik GRci kits. Servo subs have always intrigued me, sealed enclosures would be simpler, and their amps have a lot of tweakability... Thoughts anyone?
https://www.rythmikaudio.com/GRci.html
Get this and be done.
https://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12SE.htmlPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
...but i want to build my own pretty boxes that are 20" wide to match the width of the CRS's. And I don't want piano black.
Thoughts on the CI drivers vs the GR paper cone drivers? What about forward or down firing? This is all just an exercise in imagination at this point.
Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩 -
Keep in mind you will need to compensate the dimensions internally pending on the subwoofer driver to provide a tight bass
21” cabinet is wide so height and depth will be important. Cabinet will likely need false walls, which is not a bad thing, as it will provide bracing
I do like the idea, but it is more than just throwing a woofer in a box for aesthetics2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
^This^
If you go forward building your own, front firing is king.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk