Problem with Toshiba SD-3960
ascienzo
Posts: 48
Hello everyone:
After reading all the raves and millions of posts concerning the 3960-- --I couldn't help but go out and buy one for myself...I basically purchased the unit to use as a dedicated CD player...
It worked great for about a week-and-a-half even though the unit ran extremly hot--even hotter than my H/K525 runs...last week the unit began to show signs of stress and shut down after playing 2 CDs; this week the unit will play about 10 minutes into a CD and then shut down--it basically just "stops" and sometimes will shut itself off...I've noticed some white areas developing on the outer edges of the CDs (they look like buff marks) that were playing at the time it shut down. These areas apparently do not affect the CD playing at all.
I will contact Toshiba CS this week, and most likely send the unit in for repair...my questions: has anyone experienced this with their unit?; Has anyone installed a heat sink to alleviate this problem??
I believe the problem is caused by overheating because the 3960 will play fine until it heats up again...
Thanks for all your help
After reading all the raves and millions of posts concerning the 3960-- --I couldn't help but go out and buy one for myself...I basically purchased the unit to use as a dedicated CD player...
It worked great for about a week-and-a-half even though the unit ran extremly hot--even hotter than my H/K525 runs...last week the unit began to show signs of stress and shut down after playing 2 CDs; this week the unit will play about 10 minutes into a CD and then shut down--it basically just "stops" and sometimes will shut itself off...I've noticed some white areas developing on the outer edges of the CDs (they look like buff marks) that were playing at the time it shut down. These areas apparently do not affect the CD playing at all.
I will contact Toshiba CS this week, and most likely send the unit in for repair...my questions: has anyone experienced this with their unit?; Has anyone installed a heat sink to alleviate this problem??
I believe the problem is caused by overheating because the 3960 will play fine until it heats up again...
Thanks for all your help
H/K525avr
FrontsRT55i [bi-wired]
CenterCSi40 [bi-wired]
RearsRT38i
SubPSW404
FrontsRT55i [bi-wired]
CenterCSi40 [bi-wired]
RearsRT38i
SubPSW404
Post edited by ascienzo on
Comments
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I am debating on buying this unit as a CD player. I have heard they get really hot. That is why I don't understand how people are "sandbagging" them for stability. They would really overheat.
Anywho - how dependable is a $60 player...........
Thier are 11 on Ebay - all used and none new -
Thats basically why I don't want to buy one. I don't have the funds to spend 60-70 bucks and then it break.- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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It sounds like the CD may have been rubbing on something causing it th heat up.Make it Funky!
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Originally posted by gidrah
It sounds like the CD may have been rubbing on something causing it th heat up.
The unit left marks on just 2 CDs and is shutting down on everything I attempt to play--but it hasn't left marks on any other CD, so far....
I figured for $60 what did I have to lose but now I'm frustrated because the sound was really good and I miss it
Any suggestions would be appreciated...H/K525avr
FrontsRT55i [bi-wired]
CenterCSi40 [bi-wired]
RearsRT38i
SubPSW404 -
Just my $0.02, but for $60.00 throw it away and buy another one.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally posted by F1nut
Just my $0.02, but for $60.00 throw it away and buy another one.
I understand what you're saying but if the next unit does the same thing then I would rather just buy something more worthy...
The unit should be under warranty but I really believe its overheating because it needs a heat sink or a fan to help it stay cool...H/K525avr
FrontsRT55i [bi-wired]
CenterCSi40 [bi-wired]
RearsRT38i
SubPSW404 -
Originally posted by ascienzo
I would rather just buy something more worthy...
I couldn't agree more and that's why I'm not buying one of those.
As for the heatsink idea, you may want to talk with Madmax as I believe he has added a heatsink to his unit.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Is it still within the return period? From where you purchased it.
If so, just return it and get your coin back. -
I've had no problems. I've had 4 so far, each one has been burned in for at least 100 hours of straight use and then periodic use afterwards. I'll bet something was wrong with it. Take it back and say "please give me another one" is all I can say. I put a heat sink on the one I modified because I wanted it to last more than a few years...
F1, you are starting to worry me... You and MX are actually agreeing on this one. That should tell you something.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
Madmax, hmmmmmm........that is something I should look into.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1, you may want to join a group or something.
Ascienzo,
If you really like the sound of the 3960 but want more reliability the Theta Data Basic II with AudioNote DAC has the same exact charater. You can find the Basic II for $400 - $500 used and the AudioNote for maybe $500. A good cable to go between the two is about $300 but you could go with a cheapie for maybe $100. I was VERY lucky and got mine for $800 including the cable and aftermarket power cord. The similarities are uncanny. Just beware of Theta because they charge an arm and a leg for service unless you are the original purchaser.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
I've got some news for you two wise guys. We all (this includes Sid) agree that SDA's are an exceptional speaker, so who's hosting the first group meeting???Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1,
Personal question here. Have you (or anyone in your family) recently felt a compulsive need to apply a greasy detrimental automotive product to your SDA's?
Sorry, it had to be asked...
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
I'm insulted you even had to ask!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally posted by madmax
F1, you may want to join a group or something.
Ascienzo,
If you really like the sound of the 3960 but want more reliability the Theta Data Basic II with AudioNote DAC has the same exact charater. You can find the Basic II for $400 - $500 used and the AudioNote for maybe $500. A good cable to go between the two is about $300 but you could go with a cheapie for maybe $100. I was VERY lucky and got mine for $800 including the cable and aftermarket power cord. The similarities are uncanny. Just beware of Theta because they charge an arm and a leg for service unless you are the original purchaser.
madmax
Max - a greatly value your word on cd transport analog type gear.
Really - Am i still hearing that the 3960 for $60 from the factory sealed has the equal sound to $1100 dollars in used cd hi-end gear. Is this right!!!!!
Don't make me bust out my credit card................ -
The previous statements about the 3960 sounding very much like my reference system is true. List price on all that stuff was $3500. Which do I like the most? My reference system. By how much? Maybe it is 7% better?? Maybe 15% better?? I cannot tell the difference walking into it cold but with realtime switching A-B it is a little better. On the other hand I have other players costing between $400 to $1100 which do not compare at all, almost annoying sounding after hearing my reference or the 3960. Now keep in mind they are built much better and will probably last longer than the 3960. The other terrible thought for some is that if you experience this sound then have to move on to something else you better have a very nice credit limit on the card.
You can always try one from CC and take it back if it doesn't blow up your skirt. Bust out that card!
EDIT: Let me throw in one little disclaimer. This is all relative to my system which has SDA's and tubes. Of course the room is important as well. The system must all work together otherwise one component will sound no better than the next. Of course I'm sure you know that. Still, bust out that card...Vinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
Thanks for the info - Max!!