Small change...

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billbillw
billbillw Posts: 6,344
edited June 15 in Speakers
My home theater speakers have been pretty stable for going almost 20 years, from the time I joined this forum. It started with RT800i with RT25i surrounds(4). An SVS PC+ tube sub, and a CS245i (later upgraded to a CS400i) completed the package. Receivers, displays, players were chabged out pretty regularly. The only change was when I decided about 11 years ago to try a set of Pinacle Gold Reference Towers and the matching ultra wide center channel in place of the RT800i/CS400i. That ended up being a better fit for my projector setup.
Being one to always keep an eye on the various local marketplaces, I found a set of really clean RTi-A7, CSiA6, and V80F/X-RT for really cheap today and snatched them up. So far I'm liking!
Old
r5but98d0szz.jpg
New(er)
oe35d395vyp9.jpg
It's nice to have the mids and highs of the R/L higher to match my screen height. They also blend better with the old RT25i than the Pinnacles did.
I don't think I'll use the V80F, so I'll recoup a good chunk of my purchase if I sell those. The Pinnacle set will also get sold.
Now, I need some spikes for the A7. They are a bit wobbly on the berber carpet.

For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,927
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    I really like my CSiA6, it also blends very well with my rt55i speakers.
    That is a really nice grab @billbillw
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,166
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    That center I rate #2 just behind the Legend center in the all the Polk centers
    The LSiC was bad, and the LSiM was sub par

    Nice setup
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,085
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    I had some tall narrow stainless steel spikes custom made for my RTIA7's and for the stands the FXiA6's are on. Makes a big difference on thick carpet.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
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    F1nut wrote: »
    I had some tall narrow stainless steel spikes custom made for my RTIA7's and for the stands the FXiA6's are on. Makes a big difference on thick carpet.

    I think I'm going to find some Hilti threaded anchors for concrete. They are strong, long, pointed and come in the correct thread size. The problem is finding them in smaller quantities and not buying a box of 100 or 1000. If you can find smaller quantities, they are usually very inexpensive, like a buck or less each.
    Something like this:
    qzv5y5z3sua7.jpg
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,085
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    This is one of mine, made of stainless steel with an extremely sharp tip.
    1zw9ea7v29tc.jpg

    Stainless steel or brass are the best. Plain steel or aluminum are not good. Dayton makes one of similar size, which is plated brass. You'd have to redo the threads though.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayton-DSS3-SN-Speaker-Cabinet-Spike-Set-4-Pcs-Satin-Nickel-/272627595910?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
    edited June 16
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    Alledgedly, those Hilti spikes are actually what are included with Skylan stands when you buy them. I found a half empty box for $12.50 plus shipping on eBay. Will try them at least.

    I think the ones I ordered are high carbon steel with zinc coating. If those don't work out, they make a stainless version too.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,927
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    Do they make a stainless version in 3/8 x 16tpi?
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
    edited June 16
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Do they make a stainless version in 3/8 x 16tpi?

    Not sure. You would have to decipher their numbering system. I figured out that M6 is metric and W6 is 1/4"‐20. X is steel and XCr means stainless. Two other numbers are the length of the threaded section and the length of the spikes section respectively.
    Example:
    gegt6fke00gq.jpg
    dadjbzbn7r6f.jpg

    I found some XCr-W6 but I didn't see any XCr-W10. There are definitely some non-stainless ones in 3/8" (X-W10)
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,085
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    I don't recall exactly what spikes came with my Skylan stands, but I do know I threw them away.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,860
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    I have those Hilti on my Skylans. They are pretty slight. What I like most about them was the instructions on how to properly level a stand. It involved leaving only one "spike" loose enough to move. The others you'd set using a rudimentary measuring device - a small piece of cardboard with a line on it. With the stands upside down, set one edge against the bottom of the stand, adjust to the mark, and lock it down. Repeat with two others. Loosely set the 4th to the same height, flip over, put in place, and complete your leveling with the 4th spike.

    @F1nut - presuming your note about the plain steel and aluminum is about lower density compared to brass or stainless?
    I disabled signatures.
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
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    msg wrote: »
    I have those Hilti on my Skylans. They are pretty slight. What I like most about them was the instructions on how to properly level a stand. It involved leaving only one "spike" loose enough to move. The others you'd set using a rudimentary measuring device - a small piece of cardboard with a line on it. With the stands upside down, set one edge against the bottom of the stand, adjust to the mark, and lock it down. Repeat with two others. Loosely set the 4th to the same height, flip over, put in place, and complete your leveling with the 4th spike.

    @F1nut - presuming your note about the plain steel and aluminum is about lower density compared to brass or stainless?

    That's right! Three points will always be balanced. That's why I loved the spike arrangement on my old Sony SS-M9. It had two in front, one in back.

    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,927
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    Interesting, those are made to hang sprinkler pipe inside buildings. I found a data sheet.
    I do not see any that may be long enough for my stands.

    https://mans.io/files/viewer/228046/1

  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
    edited June 17
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Interesting, those are made to hang sprinkler pipe inside buildings. I found a data sheet.
    I do not see any that may be long enough for my stands.

    https://mans.io/files/viewer/228046/1

    How long do you need? These are over 2" with thread and spike combined.
    8u70m7x292ed.jpg
    Regarding the material...Stainless, brass, aluminum, etc., the consensus I've gathered across various forum discussions is that it relates to the overall hardness of the material, harder being better. Some even suggested that heat treated super hard tool steel (not stainless) is superior. I haven't really experimented with different types so I'm not saying that is a definitive statement.
    For me, it boils down to any spike is better than no spike, and the difference between various materials/shapes is far less than the initial improvement from adding "any" spike. In this case, they are in a theater environment, and I won't be doing any critical listening. As long as nothing is distracting and "takes me out" of the movie, I am pretty easy to please. Visually, I couldn't care less about how a spike looks down on the carpet in a darkened theater room.

    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
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    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    That center I rate #2 just behind the Legend center in the all the Polk centers
    The LSiC was bad, and the LSiM was sub par

    Nice setup

    The first few minutes, I wasn't impressed with the CSiA6, then I calibrated, adjusted volume with my sound meter, and watched a few movies (over the course of 2 days). Now, I see what you mean. It very clearly an improvement. The RTiA7 are also pretty impressive and they are a big step up from what I've had in the theater previously.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,085
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    Brass has been and remains the most common and preferred choice for spikes. Stainless steel has gained popularity of late as evidenced by the available offerings. I've never seen/heard anyone claim the harder the better nor have I seen/heard anyone claim plain steel is a good choice. In fact, the opposite.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
    edited June 17
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Brass has been and remains the most common and preferred choice for spikes. Stainless steel has gained popularity of late as evidenced by the available offerings. I've never seen/heard anyone claim the harder the better nor have I seen/heard anyone claim plain steel is a good choice. In fact, the opposite.

    Well, there are certainly lots of opinions out there for the search on any number of different forums and there are many who believe that spikes are bad and that isolation is the best (think Townshend). Like I said, I haven't compared. As I mentioned in the very first post here, me adding spikes is really to control the tipsy nature of these relatively tall/narrow speakers on the carpet.
    For me, if I have a set of speakers purchased used, and they don't come with cones/spikes, I usually get what is available for a reasonable cost. For my Sony SS-M9, I looked for a couple years and stainless steel was the only thing I could find anywhere that wasn't going to cost in the $400+ price range, and I gotta tell you, the ones that I ended up finding from Percy Audio looked just about like these Hilti anchors. Coincidence? Maybe not...
    My VPI has brass cones that I ordered from Britain, but those are really quite tiny and they were inexpensive.
    Anyhow, I'm waiting for my 1/2 box (49 actually) of the Hilti anchors to come in the mail. If anyone else wants to try them for a speaker that needs the 1/4-20 thread, I share a set of 8 for the cost of shipping.
    Post edited by billbillw on
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,927
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    If anyone else wants to try them for a speaker that needs the 1/4-20 thread, I share a set of 8 for the cost of shipping.
    I might take you up on that just to see how sharp they are.
    I made 3/8" spikes out of 5" grade 8 bolts. I gound them down to a very narrow super sharp point. My stands are unlike anything I've seen on the market, built like a tank. The problem with them on my carpet and pad is if the rest on the carpet no matter how sharp the spike is, they tend to end up floating in a few days. My homemade long narrow ice pick like spikes now sit about an inch and a half above the carpet and pad.
    The 1/4x20 hilti spikes I may try on the 2.3tl's tied into the brass cone of my two piece spikes.
    Just a thought.
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    If anyone else wants to try them for a speaker that needs the 1/4-20 thread, I share a set of 8 for the cost of shipping.
    I might take you up on that just to see how sharp they are.
    I made 3/8" spikes out of 5" grade 8 bolts. I gound them down to a very narrow super sharp point. My stands are unlike anything I've seen on the market, built like a tank. The problem with them on my carpet and pad is if the rest on the carpet no matter how sharp the spike is, they tend to end up floating in a few days. My homemade long narrow ice pick like spikes now sit about an inch and a half above the carpet and pad.
    The 1/4x20 hilti spikes I may try on the 2.3tl's tied into the brass cone of my two piece spikes.
    Just a thought.

    I'm having a hard time visualizing how an 5" long ice pick spike only leaves you 1.5" above the carpet. Does your carpet sit on a 3" memory foam mattress or something?
    Anyway, I should have these Hilti anchors in house by the weekend. We can coordinate by PM and I'll send you a set.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,927
    edited June 18
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    Bottom legs are about 2" heavy oval steel pipe, I wanted to screw them all the way into the leg to bottom out at the top of the leg. They are firmly anchored into the subfloor, leveled and do not rock at all. Keep in mind when you hand grind a bolt on the bench grinder whether you want to or not you will loose some length. My thick leather gloves still let in enough heat to have to stop from time to time. :wink: I also didn't want to ruin the threads in the legs stepping on them to get them into the subfloor, that is why I wanted to bottom them out to the top of the leg to better support my weight when I stepped on the legs to pierce all the way through into the subfloor. YES my carpet and pad is thick but definitely not memory foam matteress thick. By the way I still needed to get a nut on the spikes to level and lock them in place.
    Best stands EVER for $20....
  • gyosa
    gyosa Posts: 728
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    billbillw wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Brass has been and remains the most common and preferred choice for spikes. Stainless steel has gained popularity of late as evidenced by the available offerings. I've never seen/heard anyone claim the harder the better nor have I seen/heard anyone claim plain steel is a good choice. In fact, the opposite.

    Well, there are certainly lots of opinions out there for the search on any number of different forums and there are many who believe that spikes are bad and that isolation is the best (think Townshend). Like I said, I haven't compared. As I mentioned in the very first post here, me adding spikes is really to control the tipsy nature of these relatively tall/narrow speakers on the carpet.
    For me, if I have a set of speakers purchased used, and they don't come with cones/spikes, I usually get what is available for a reasonable cost. For my Sony SS-M9, I looked for a couple years and stainless steel was the only thing I could find anywhere that wasn't going to cost in the $400+ price range, and I gotta tell you, the ones that I ended up finding from Percy Audio looked just about like these Hilti anchors. Coincidence? Maybe not...
    My VPI has brass cones that I ordered from Britain, but those are really quite tiny and they were inexpensive.
    Anyhow, I'm waiting for my 1/2 box (49 actually) of the Hilti anchors to come in the mail. If anyone else wants to try them for a speaker that needs the 1/4-20 thread, I share a set of 8 for the cost of shipping.


    I’d like to take you up on your offer , if I may …

    I’ll PM you ..

    Bk


    PS Audio S300 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Salk SuperCharged Songtowers , Kimber Kable 4TC, Sony 42” - BEDROOM

    B&K EX-442 ( it will go in my casket when I die ... ) , PS Audio 4.6 preamp ( old school , but it still jams on ... ) , Eversolo DMP-A6 , Boston Acoustic voyager 7’s - POOL

    Parasound A21, Eversolo DMP-A8 , Kimber Kable 4vs , Ascend Acoustics ELX Ribbon Towers , Sony XBR-A8F 65” OLED - DEN , MAIN system

    Onkyo TX-nr609 , Polk atrium 7 , Boston acoustic sound ware (4) , Boston acoustic sub , B&W center , Sharp 65” TV - PATIO
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
    edited June 20
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    BTW>I went back to Percy Audio's catalog and found what I bought back in 2011. I always thought they were stainless steel, but he just describes them as steel. So, I really do think that the ones I was using for 10 years on my SS-M9 were simply Hilti's larger 3/8-16 size.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,344
    edited June 23
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    Well, the Hilti anchor/spikes work. Not perfect. A bit difficult to work with since they have very little to grip onto for threading them in, and apparently Polk's threaded inserts aren't the cleanest (I had at least 1 on each speaker that was tough to thread), but they work effectively to pierce my berber carpet and they are nice and stable now. I ended up buying a bag of 25 jam nuts for $2.50 at Home Depot to lock these in. I was originally planning on just bottoming them all out, but due to above mentioned threading difficulties, this didn't work out. They are better with a jam nut, but of course, that also required me to rip off all 8 rubber pads in order to tighten the nuts. Luckily they are a snug fit back in and they hold even without glue.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,860
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    Cool. I'd think 100% on the use of a jam nut.

    One handy tool to have around is a thread restoring set. I use this from time to time to fix mangled threads, or to finish/clean poorly cut ones.

    This is different than taps and dies. Not for cutting. I do use cutting oil with them as well though.

    I have a couple of stands with loose-ish spikes,and have considered using Loc-tite to cinch up the play. Only problem then is you'd need a wrench to adjust.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,839
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    msg wrote: »
    jam nut

    One handy tool

    poorly cut ones

    I do use oil

    I have a couple with spikes

    you'd need a wench

    Watch your language.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,860
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    sob.
    I disabled signatures.