Monitor 7A Resurrection - Advice Needed
Private_Idaho
Posts: 13
Hello, Club Polk! First time poster. Excited to get the ball rolling on restoring some Monitor 7A's I just picked up from FB Marketplace for what I initially thought was a pretty good deal. I just made a discovery this afternoon that has made me realize that this will be a bigger undertaking than I initially had thought.
I picked up these M7's a few weeks back and of course noticed that the previous owner had replaced the original Peerless tweeters with some horns. I asked the seller if they still had the original tweeters and sadly they did not. Well, today I finally got around to removing the horns and made an unfortunate discovery. The front of the speakers have been hacked to accommodate the enlarged size of the horns...
So, it looks like I will be cutting a new front face panel for these. I know I could probably patch these up but I really want these to look good when I'm done with them. I was planning on veneering them, going for a full restoration essentially. So I don't mind the extra work involved.
Given that I will be cutting a new face panel, I'm at a crossroads. Should I try and find a set of Peerless tweeters and just rebuild the original crossovers or should I try and install RDO-194's/RDO-198's with alternate crossovers installed? Or perhaps it's possible to mod the original 7A crossovers to accept one of these tweeters? I was initially planning on going the easy route and sourcing some Peerless tweets to throw in here but a lot of them I have found look kind of rough and I like the idea of having newer Polk tweets in these.
Really curious to get some input on this. Thanks in advance everyone!
I picked up these M7's a few weeks back and of course noticed that the previous owner had replaced the original Peerless tweeters with some horns. I asked the seller if they still had the original tweeters and sadly they did not. Well, today I finally got around to removing the horns and made an unfortunate discovery. The front of the speakers have been hacked to accommodate the enlarged size of the horns...
So, it looks like I will be cutting a new front face panel for these. I know I could probably patch these up but I really want these to look good when I'm done with them. I was planning on veneering them, going for a full restoration essentially. So I don't mind the extra work involved.
Given that I will be cutting a new face panel, I'm at a crossroads. Should I try and find a set of Peerless tweeters and just rebuild the original crossovers or should I try and install RDO-194's/RDO-198's with alternate crossovers installed? Or perhaps it's possible to mod the original 7A crossovers to accept one of these tweeters? I was initially planning on going the easy route and sourcing some Peerless tweets to throw in here but a lot of them I have found look kind of rough and I like the idea of having newer Polk tweets in these.
Really curious to get some input on this. Thanks in advance everyone!
Comments
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Go back and b i t c h slap the previous owner.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Oh, the humanity.
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Whatever route I go, this is shaping up to be a pretty hefty restoration. I love a good resto thread as much as the next guy so I will be sure not to leave anybody hanging and will post updates as I go. I am actually really eager to get started. I love a good challenge!
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Please don't do anything rash.
If you leaf through restoration, rehabilitation, and resto-mod threads here, you'll find both wheat -- and chaff.
They're fine loudspeakers and I reckon that careful repair (or, if needed, replacement) of the baffles to accept the proper tweeters, coupled with the 'standard' and well-characterized rehab actions for the early "Monitor series" will net a nice pair of loudspeakers.
Are the woofers (ahem "midwoofers") OK?
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What a hack job! 🤬
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Those Radio Shack 40-1228 horns (which, early on, were made by Foster, i.e., Fostex) actually aren't horrific horn "tweeters" (albeit somewhat limited in extension) -- but, other than sheer sensitivity, far inferior in sound quality to the Peerless silk dome tweeters.
That said, both the "Radio Shack" and the Peerless tweeters were in constant production for many, many years.
Just sayin'.
Here's an early (week 22 of 1969), all metal version of that same horn and driver.
I recently gave a pair of these to someone who was restoring something or other that needed 'em.
Although identical to early "Radio Shack" horn tweeters, these were labeled "Foster" and, if memory serves, may have been pulled from a pair of Zenith "Allegro" loudspeakers.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »Please don't do anything rash.
If you leaf through restoration, rehabilitation, and resto-mod threads here, you'll find both wheat -- and chaff.
They're fine loudspeakers and I reckon that careful repair (or, if needed, replacement) of the baffles to accept the proper tweeters, coupled with the 'standard' and well-characterized rehab actions for the early "Monitor series" will net a nice pair of loudspeakers.
Are the woofers (ahem "midwoofers") OK?
Hello, yes the woofers have checked out okay, at least as far as I can tell. Thankfully neither one of them have shifted magnets and I have played music through both, albeit at moderate levels only and they sound fine. Surrounds feel good. Surrounds in the passive radiators also seem to be in good shape.
As far as my plan of attack goes, I am pretty sure I can salvage the woofer and PR. The cabinets for each speaker are also sound (no pun intended) and, all things considered, are actually in pretty good shape, minus the fronts of course. I think with enough care, these can be brought back to their former glory.
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Once I figure out which direction I'm going to go with the tweeters, my plan is to:
1) Replace fronts for each speaker
2) Rebuild/replace/modify (if necessary) crossovers
3) Glue driver magnets
4) Install T-nuts/machine screws all the way around
5) New gaskets. Material recommendation?
6) Cabinet veneer
7) New grill cloth
8) Fabricate stands. I really like the look of the KLH Model 5's. Planning on fabricating stands that resemble the Model 5 stands while maintaining the proper height/angle dimensions of the original Polk stands.
I know this is a lot, maybe I'm crazy but I have always wanted a pair of M7's and I love the idea of bringing these back from the dead, with a vengeance! -
Get rid of the fugly MW flange gaskets and possibly countersink them in the baffle. Add a 1" dowel front to back between MW and PR. for better mid-bass.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Get rid of the fugly MW flange gaskets and possibly countersink them in the baffle. Add a 1" dowel front to back between MW and PR. for better mid-bass.
Yes I agree regarding the MW gaskets, the more I look at them the more I dislike them. They are showing their age and just have kind of a rough, weathered look to them. Looks like I can get some new ones or are the MW's fine without the gasket? I guess they should be fine as they are absent on later renditions of the Monitor speakers. But I'm sure someone with a little more expertise than I could weigh in and give their 2 cents.
Would countersinking the MW's alter the sound characteristics of the speakers or am I overthinking that? I realize that countersinking would only set the driver back about another 0.25" or so into the cabinet, but it would thus slightly decrease the internal volume of the cabinet. It would look slick though. I am certainly open to the possibility of doing this. I'm sure I am overthinking it lol.
Is the 1" dowel a popular mod? I have not heard of that one but I am definitely open to all suggestions. -
Leave the flange gaskets alone. Replacing the entire front panel would be very difficult. You're better off squaring up the hack job cut out, fit a new piece in there, then route out a new hole and recess. After that recover the front panel.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Go back and b i t c h slap the previous owner.
Lol, that's what I wanted to do when I first pulled the RatShack horns off and saw the carnage... -
I've always thought that those "gaskets" were just a byproduct of the company they originally sourced the drivers from was manufacturing not just for Polk but for a wider market that may have included a market (automotive etc.) that wanted the option of mounting internally to a baffle. I don't think Polk requested that feature and they were undoubtedly trying to keep costs down in the early days.
I wouldn't try removing them though because they are glued on and it might just end up looking worse than they already do. I don't see why they couldn't be painted matte black.
It's true that countersinking decreases the cabinet volume but Polk did it in the evolution of the M7. In the 7B with Peerless/SL1000 + MW6500 they first countersunk the passive radiator. I don't know if there were any 7B with both drivers countersunk. They may not have done that until the 7C where they were using the MW6502 and that driver has less than half the Vas of the 6500. Not countersinking helps keep the baffle stiffer but may have worse diffraction from the flange of the driver and would also not give the backwave that energizes the passive radiator as much breathing room. I am always a bit surprised that Polk never chamfered the inner edge of the baffle and you might consider doing that where the windows are but leave it alone where the mounting points are.Post edited by Gardenstater onGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Hey everyone, just wanted to say thanks so far to everyone that has weighed in on this! It's going to be fun to share this experience with everyone, and boy is it going to be an experience...
Anyways, last night the trajectory of this project took an interesting turn. I guess I'm going to be hijacking my own thread and changing it from an advice needed kind of thread to a restoration thread. Unfortunately it was too late last night when I saw the advice from others warning me against messing with the MW driver gaskets. I had noticed one area on one of the driver gaskets felt a little loose so I began to pry on it to see how difficult the gasket would be to remove. Then I noticed it was also lifting the edge of the butyl surround from the basket so I stopped right there. I know it can be reglued (I've read that Aileen's Tacky Glue works well for this?) But anyways, shortly after I found an eBay listing for, what are essentially all of the guts of a Monitor 7C for sale, sans passive radiator. I made a low end offer on the lot thinking that surely that seller would come back with a counter offer, and, they didn't! They accepted the offer. The lot included a pair of SL25000 tweets so thankfully then that means that the upgraded RDO198 should be a drop in replacement for these, yes?
So, as it stands right now, I will have:
Cabinets and passive radiators from a pair of 7A's
MW6502 drivers and crossovers from a pair of 7C's
RDO198 tweeters
Anyone have thoughts on this? Any concerns? I don't see why all of these components wouldn't play nice with each other, but I'm certainly not an expert.
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I am pretty set on replacing the entire front panels on these. I am very comfortable with my ability to fabricate and install new ones. I have it all planned out in my head and as soon as my new components arrive, I will begin drawing up some jigs on Fusion360.
Where I am admittedly lacking is in my understanding of cabinet design and its relationship with the acoustic characteristics of the speakers. So, I am all ears to the advice from all of you resident Polk experts!Gardenstater wrote: »It's true that countersinking decreases the cabinet volume but Polk did it in the evolution of the M7. In the 7B with Peerless/SL1000 + MW6500 they first countersunk the passive radiator. I don't know if there were any 7B with both drivers countersunk. They may not have done that until the 7C where they were using the MW6502 and that driver has less than half the Vas of the 6500. Not countersinking helps keep the baffle stiffer but may have worse diffraction from the flange of the driver and would also not give the backwave that energizes the passive radiator as much breathing room. I am always a bit surprised that Polk never chamfered the inner edge of the baffle and you might consider doing that where the windows are but leave it alone where the mounting points are.
Thank you for the insight, Gardenstater, I was not aware that the Monitor 7 line evolved that way. With the situation now being that I will be installing MW6502 drivers from a Monitor 7C, I am interested in the possibility of countersinking both the MW6502 and the passive radiators. I would assume countersink depth would have probably been somewhere around 0.25" but I would love if someone could chime in and confirm actual depth. I would be very appreciative!
Regarding the chamfer, I'm definitely open to the idea. I will follow up later on when I have some models drawn up and confirm that I am interpreting your suggestion correctly. Thanks for your input!
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If you are going to go the full baffle replacement route you could go with 1" MDF or maybe even HDF if you know someone who works in a cabinet shop that can get it. You could put a 1/4" chamfer on the outer edge and 1/4" rabbeted construction so that the internal volume remains the same.
I wouldn't worry about chamfering the inside edge of the baffle if you kept the baffle 3/4" and countersunk the drivers. I'd definitely do it with a 1" baffle though.
The SL2500 only came with the M7 Series II which had a different crossover from the 7C. To use the RD0-198 you have to either do the TL mod to the 7C crossover or get the Series II crossover.
PS: It is possible that the passive radiator in the 7C and Series II could have had a different tuning mass compared to the 7B and 7A, because it is based upon the midwoofer it is paired with and the enclosure volume. See if the seller has the passives too.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Private_Idaho wrote: »I am pretty set on replacing the entire front panels on these. I am very comfortable with my ability to fabricate and install new ones. I have it all planned out in my head and as soon as my new components arrive, I will begin drawing up some jigs on Fusion360.
Where I am admittedly lacking is in my understanding of cabinet design and its relationship with the acoustic characteristics of the speakers. So, I am all ears to the advice from all of you resident Polk experts!Gardenstater wrote: »It's true that countersinking decreases the cabinet volume but Polk did it in the evolution of the M7. In the 7B with Peerless/SL1000 + MW6500 they first countersunk the passive radiator. I don't know if there were any 7B with both drivers countersunk. They may not have done that until the 7C where they were using the MW6502 and that driver has less than half the Vas of the 6500. Not countersinking helps keep the baffle stiffer but may have worse diffraction from the flange of the driver and would also not give the backwave that energizes the passive radiator as much breathing room. I am always a bit surprised that Polk never chamfered the inner edge of the baffle and you might consider doing that where the windows are but leave it alone where the mounting points are.
Thank you for the insight, Gardenstater, I was not aware that the Monitor 7 line evolved that way. With the situation now being that I will be installing MW6502 drivers from a Monitor 7C, I am interested in the possibility of countersinking both the MW6502 and the passive radiators. I would assume countersink depth would have probably been somewhere around 0.25" but I would love if someone could chime in and confirm actual depth. I would be very appreciative!
Regarding the chamfer, I'm definitely open to the idea. I will follow up later on when I have some models drawn up and confirm that I am interpreting your suggestion correctly. Thanks for your input!
Countersink depth should be 0.200" for the MW flange thickness and gasket compression. 6502's will be a better choice overall, especially for longevity's sake.
I 2nd that a full baffle replacement would be better/stronger as you can simply glue on and just cut out the old particle board, leaving just an inch or two width of the old baffle all the way around for gluing. I've done this on a few 5Jr's. Give you more cab volume, so countersinking the driver's is no issue.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I don't think the process described above is the way to go.
The model 7 is approx. 14" wide and 24" tall. Subtract 1.5" each dimension (.75" thickness each -- sides, top and bottom) to approximate actual baffle dimensions. You're now at 22.5" tall and 12.5" wide. Now subtract 2" in each dimension (1" each side, top and bottom) for gluing surface. You are now at 20.5" tall and 10.5" wide.
Those dimensions (along with approx. 3/4" thickness of particle board) can be used to determine the volume of the rectangle you've just added to the cabinet volume.
It works out to about 161 cubic inches.
It has to have a significant effect on the way the speaker sounds vs. as-designed.
I'll add that you may well have gotten-away-with-it on the 5jrs. but I suspect the change here will be much more profound.
I think the solution here is what is commonly called a "dutchman"
Post edited by Astrl55 on -
Lol, I can't help but laugh at the evolution of this undertaking.
So I mentioned earlier that I ordered a lot of MW6502 drivers, SL2500 tweets and crossovers from a pair of 7C's. That was a misnomer on my end.
Gardenstater, you were correct in that because of the SL2500 tweeters, the parts must have actually been pulled from a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. After comparing pictures from the listing and pictures of known components from some M7 Series 2's, I can indeed confirm that that's what I have on order. I'm still getting to know all of the different flavors of the vintage Monitor speakers here so forgive me.
The funny thing here is that I am only one pair of passive radiators away from essentially having all of the components needed to put together a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. Heck, I've even got some old Polk badges kicking around and some grill pegs I 3D printed some years ago when I restored a pair of Monitor 5JR's for someone.
If I'm correct, the SW105 is the part number of the passive radiator that was used in the Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers, no? That is what I have concluded after a bit of research but I could be wrong.
I have been a hobbyist woodworker for some years now, so I'm not afraid to take on the challenge of building some cabinets and grill frames, provided I have accurate dimensions/models to go off of.
What I'm suggesting is there are two ways I could proceed from here:
Option 1 - If internal cabinet dimensions between M7A & M7 Series 2's are the same, I could replace the baffle of the M7A cabinets I have in the garage, and use all of the components from M7 Series 2 speakers to create what would essentially be a pair of FrankenPolks. M7 Series 2 guts in M7A cabinets.
Option 2 (and I am much preferring this option) - Acquire plans for M7 Series 2 cabinets. Build cabinets. Source passive radiators and RDO-198 tweets. Put all components together and essentially create a pair of M7 Series 2's from the ground up. Let that scratch the itch for the time being while I patiently wait for a nice pair of Peerless tweets to pop up on eBay for the right price, buy them and stick them into the M7A cabinets. Rebuild baffle for M7A's. This way the M7A's stay original, minus the new baffle, and more true to what they were originally intended to be. This option of course would net me two different flavors of M7's in the end.
So, I guess with all that being said, does anyone know of a reliable resource for cabinet plans? I would need to fabricate the Series 2 grill frames as well. Apologies if I may have glossed right over dimensions/plans available at Club Polk, I will look around to see what I can find right after posting this.
Thanks everyone! -
I don't think the process described above is the way to go.
The model 7 is approx. 14" wide and 24" tall. Subtract 1.5" each dimension (.75" thickness each -- sides, top and bottom) to approximate actual baffle dimensions. You're now at 22.5" tall and 12.5" wide. Now subtract 2" in each dimension (1" each side, top and bottom) for gluing surface. You are now at 20.5" tall and 10.5" wide.
Those dimensions (along with approx. 3/4" thickness of particle board) can be used to determine the volume of the rectangle you've just added to the cabinet volume.
It works out to about 161 cubic inches.
It has to have a significant effect on the way the speaker sounds vs. as-designed.
I'll add that you may well have gotten-away-with-it on the 5jrs. but I suspect the change here will be much more profound.
I think the solution here is what is commonly called a "dutchman"
Guess I'm lost on your description. What I proposed is only adding the cubic inch volume of the area of the old baffle (minus the original cutouts and minus the intact perimeter). No length and width are changed.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Private_Idaho wrote: »Lol, I can't help but laugh at the evolution of this undertaking.
So I mentioned earlier that I ordered a lot of MW6502 drivers, SL2500 tweets and crossovers from a pair of 7C's. That was a misnomer on my end.
Gardenstater, you were correct in that because of the SL2500 tweeters, the parts must have actually been pulled from a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. After comparing pictures from the listing and pictures of known components from some M7 Series 2's, I can indeed confirm that that's what I have on order. I'm still getting to know all of the different flavors of the vintage Monitor speakers here so forgive me.
The funny thing here is that I am only one pair of passive radiators away from essentially having all of the components needed to put together a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. Heck, I've even got some old Polk badges kicking around and some grill pegs I 3D printed some years ago when I restored a pair of Monitor 5JR's for someone.
If I'm correct, the SW105 is the part number of the passive radiator that was used in the Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers, no? That is what I have concluded after a bit of research but I could be wrong.
I have been a hobbyist woodworker for some years now, so I'm not afraid to take on the challenge of building some cabinets and grill frames, provided I have accurate dimensions/models to go off of.
What I'm suggesting is there are two ways I could proceed from here:
Option 1 - If internal cabinet dimensions between M7A & M7 Series 2's are the same, I could replace the baffle of the M7A cabinets I have in the garage, and use all of the components from M7 Series 2 speakers to create what would essentially be a pair of FrankenPolks. M7 Series 2 guts in M7A cabinets.
Option 2 (and I am much preferring this option) - Acquire plans for M7 Series 2 cabinets. Build cabinets. Source passive radiators and RDO-198 tweets. Put all components together and essentially create a pair of M7 Series 2's from the ground up. Let that scratch the itch for the time being while I patiently wait for a nice pair of Peerless tweets to pop up on eBay for the right price, buy them and stick them into the M7A cabinets. Rebuild baffle for M7A's. This way the M7A's stay original, minus the new baffle, and more true to what they were originally intended to be. This option of course would net me two different flavors of M7's in the end.
So, I guess with all that being said, does anyone know of a reliable resource for cabinet plans? I would need to fabricate the Series 2 grill frames as well. Apologies if I may have glossed right over dimensions/plans available at Club Polk, I will look around to see what I can find right after posting this.
Thanks everyone!
Fully modded 7C's with 198's are the best Polk monitors I've heard to date. You have to keep in mind that the original Peerless tweeters are aged (they are proteinaceous dome material BTW). It would be nice to see someone build both and do a full side-by-side review.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
@xschop - my post describes how I calculated the extra volume your method would add to the cabinet.
The extra volume is equal to the volume of the rectangle you have outlined in red. (formula: LxWxH).
When you remove that section and glue a new baffle on top of it, you leave a rectangular void.
The calculation is the volume of that void in cubic inches.
Hope that helps.
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Understand, but does that added volume put the calculation closer to the 7C's?Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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That is a question whose answer I do not know.
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Today is a good day. My first shipment of parts arrived! I received 2 MW6502 drivers, 2 M7 Series 2 crossovers, and 2 SL2500 tweets. The best part about all of this is that the MW6502's arrived with magnets unshifted - rejoice! I have found PR's and am just waiting for them to arrive. Still need to place an order for the RDO198's.
Furthermore, I think I have the pertinent dimensions required to begin drawing up M7 Series 2 cabinets. It was quite the journey finding reliable dimensions. I have still yet to find any kind of resource where cabinet plans can be found. If anyone knows of such a thing, let me know, but after all is said and done and the dust has settled on this project, I plan to make drawings available for both M7A cabinets as well as M7 Series 2 cabinets.
Anyways, finding the Series 2 cabinet dimensions is kind of a funny story. I was searching high and low for anything I could find, and I stumbled upon a Craigslist ad, of all things, down in Texas. The ad was well written and included outside cabinet dimensions as well as a copious amount of pictures. The timing could not have been better. I had the ad open for about 30 minutes before I went to reply, and by the time I clicked the button to send an email to the seller, the ad had been flagged for some reason. I guess this is why most people don't use Craigslist anymore. Seems to have really fallen off these past few years. Thankfully I found that the seller had cross-posted the same ad in FB Marketplace. After changing my location, I found the ad and contacted the seller to see if he could help me out with some measurements. Thankfully he obliged, all he asked in return is that I mention his eBay page (I hope this doesn't violate forum rules) but I told him I would. So, Matt, if you're reading this, thank you again for helping me out! He has a page called "longboardluv" and it looks like he has quite the plethora of vintage audio parts. Just wanted to throw that out there, he really helped me out!
With the information that I have now, I quickly drew up a preliminary 3D model of what the cabinets should look like. Of course, as it stands right now, this is a very rough draft so bear with me. It will be very easy to modify in the future though as parts come in and I can get the final measurements that I need to have an accurate cabinet model.
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They are all roughly the same size.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Unless my pre coffee math is wrong it looks like they made the enclosure volume a tad larger. I get 0.90% larger, with the 7A dimensions of 24" x 14" x 9-1/4". That's assuming they stayed with 3/4" particle board. Did they use MDF in the Series II ?George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Hey all,
I've been away for awhile but I haven't abandoned the mission here. I've had some free time this evening and I decided to go ahead and draw up some 3D models of a couple speaker stands.
Also, I scored a pair of some very nice Peerless tweeters since my last post and I have to tell somebody about it (even if nobody reads this) because I just don't think my wife understands how or why I'm so excited lol
Anyways, I recently found a .pdf floating around here on the forums for a Polk Monitor Stand. I don't personally have any stands in my possession to go off of but the drawing looks legitimate, so, based off of that, I produced a 3D model of what should be the original Monitor stand.
After this, I took some artistic liberty and drew up some stands that fit the same outer dimensions as the Polk stands but are styled after the stands for the KLH Model 5 speakers. I mentioned earlier how much I like the look of these stands, but I also really do like the look of the JBL L100 Classic stands. They are pretty similar overall but I think the KLH stands win by just a bit in terms of style points. Below I have a screenshot of what I'm calling the KLH Style Monitor Stands.
Finally, I have an overlay of the two stands, for comparison:
I'm excited at the prospect of producing some high quality stands for both pairs of the M7's that I will be resurrecting/building.
Just thought I would drop in and share, let me know what you think!
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Hey all, sorry I've been gone for awhile but I got some free time this evening and I thought I would go ahead and post an update on the project here. I have not abandoned the mission yet!
So I mentioned earlier that I had an affinity for the KLH Model 5 stands... So here's what I did: I found a .pdf floating around here on the forums of some Monitor stands and I produced a 3D model of one based on the drawing:
Then, I took some artistic liberty and drew up some stands that resemble the KLH Model 5 stands, but also fit the dimensions of the original Polk Monitor stands.
Below I have an overlay of the two, for comparison:
Also, I have to share with somebody (even if nobody reads this) that I found a very nice pair of Peerless tweets! So I pretty much have everything I need to bring the original M7A's back to life and also what I need to basically build some M7 Series 2's from scratch. I just had to share because I don't think my wife totally understands why I'm so excited or what I'm so excited about lol
Let me know what you all think!
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So, really quick, I plan on producing a new baffle for the M7A's using MDF and I plan on building M7 Series 2 cabinets also using MDF. The original material for both of course is particle board. Anyone care to weigh in on this? I'm sure there will be a lot of opinions...
