Acquired a pair of SDA2s

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Hi all,

I acquired these SDA2s about 3 years ago. They came out of a shed that a gentleman was cleaning out I paid 50 bucks for them. I figured i couldn't go wrong since they had a good name brand name attached to them.

I used an old Sony receiver from the 90's to power them and test them out they sounded amazing. I really haven't used them since.

I am just now getting around to seeting up a system in my bedroom and want to use these speakers. Once I looked up the model number I discovered this site and the nuisances surrounding these speakers with terms like common ground amps, interconnect cable pin/blade and blade/blade.

My question is what do I have here and how do I move forward on acquiring the correct components to properly power my setup.

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Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,927
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    They appear to be SDA2b
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,779
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    Did he include the green oxidized speaker wire too?
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,492
    edited February 5
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    Nice score! They will need to be updated. The surrounds on the tweeters have separated which could be repaired but would be best to replace them with the RD0-194's or the RD0-198's if you choose to "TL" them. Get your read on and welcome to Club Polk.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,086
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    RD0194-1 or RD0198-1
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,837
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    Get a can of Polk-Black spray paint for those chipped tops.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Leanback
    Leanback Posts: 6
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    Clipdat wrote: »
    Did he include the green oxidized speaker wire too?

    Yes, he did lol. Green is the new gold!

    Audioluvr, thanks for the reply. Looking into the RDO-194s and 6s so much info here to go through. I tried to keep this rabbit hole at bay, but I keep inching further and further.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,051
    edited February 5
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    Just at glance, if you plan on keeping them, by the looks of the tweeters I would open up the cabinets and inspect everything, backs of the drivers, crossovers, etc. Especially since you said they were in a shed..

    I would then order the RD-0194 tweeters, I am assuming these have the two piece crossover boards. If by chance they are the one piece, get the RD-0198’s and upgrade the crossovers to accommodate them..

    There is more but it’s a good start.
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 270
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    My SDA-2b studio (black cabinet) version had the blade/blade interconnect socket like yours. Luckily they had the single board crossovers and I was able to do the "TL" mod. Definitely take a look inside and see what you are working with.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,086
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    Leanback wrote: »
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Did he include the green oxidized speaker wire too?

    Yes, he did lol. Green is the new gold!

    Audioluvr, thanks for the reply. Looking into the RDO-194s and 6s so much info here to go through. I tried to keep this rabbit hole at bay, but I keep inching further and further.

    RD(zero)194-1 or RD(zero)198-1.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Leanback
    Leanback Posts: 6
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    Ok, I went ahead and opened up and inspected everything. I believe everything looks good no corrosion on the boards or speaker connections. But I'll let you guys be the judge of that. Also I didn't pull out the stuffing to see if there was anything else in there let me know if I missed something.

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  • Leanback
    Leanback Posts: 6
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Leanback wrote: »
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Did he include the green oxidized speaker wire too?

    Yes, he did lol. Green is the new gold!

    Audioluvr, thanks for the reply. Looking into the RDO-194s and 6s so much info here to go through. I tried to keep this rabbit hole at bay, but I keep inching further and further.

    RD(zero)194-1 or RD(zero)198-1.

    Thank you for the clarification F1nut
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,051
    edited February 5
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    Can you tell us what the serial numbers are? you definitely have the single boards (that is a good thing) ..

    Left Channel 14115 or greater.
    Right Channel 14124 or greater.

    Your right channel hits the mark, at 14831, I would assume the left will as well.

    You will be able to upgrade these to 2BTL's and use the RD-0198-1's and you can also use an AI-1/Dreadnought SDA Cable if your heart desired..
  • Leanback
    Leanback Posts: 6
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    Toolfan66,

    Left channel serial # 14608
    Right channel serial # 14831

    Looks like the both hit the mark, thanks for that info.

    Is there a amp/receiver compatibility list for these speakers put out by Polk? I keep seeing this common ground issue while using the interconnect cable.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,051
    edited February 6
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    Leanback wrote: »
    Toolfan66,

    Left channel serial # 14608
    Right channel serial # 14831

    Looks like the both hit the mark, thanks for that info.

    Is there a amp/receiver compatibility list for these speakers put out by Polk? I keep seeing this common ground issue while using the interconnect cable.

    If you can find a AI-1 cable or Build a Dreadnought the world is your oyster for powering these, even mono amps..

    You shouldn't have an issue with most receivers, plenty of guys around here that can chime in on them.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,837
    Options
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Leanback wrote: »
    Toolfan66,

    Left channel serial # 14608
    Right channel serial # 14831

    Looks like the both hit the mark, thanks for that info.

    Is there a amp/receiver compatibility list for these speakers put out by Polk? I keep seeing this common ground issue while using the interconnect cable.

    If you can find a AI-1 cable or Build a Dreadnought the world is your oyster for powering these, even mono amps..

    You shouldn't have an issue with most receivers, plenty of guys around here that can chime in on them.

    Even Class D
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,492
    Options
    Your left side drivers look like the magnets are shifting. Gently push in on them to listen/feel for scratchiness. They may need to be recentered before you secure the magnets.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • Leanback
    Leanback Posts: 6
    Options
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Your left side drivers look like the magnets are shifting. Gently push in on them to listen/feel for scratchiness. They may need to be recentered before you secure the magnets.

    Yep, I see that in the picture now that you mention. Thanks for looking out.