ABATRON WoodEpox Monitor 7’s

Toolfan66
Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
edited November 2023 in Vintage Speakers
Anyone used this stuff before? I have some Monitor 7’s with some small nicked corners, and along the back edge I would like to fill so I have a nice square edge before I vinyl wrap these.

deb209pd0d2n.jpeg


They are small nicks and they are all just along the back side.

Comments

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    Abatron would be a great amplifier company name
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,500
    I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
    https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm

    I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.

    The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Jazzhead
    Jazzhead Posts: 533
    edited November 2023
    Here's another option I've successfully used for years. It's very similar to the Abatron product, but is a bit more tacky and workable before curing IMHO:
    zi3lvlwilsei.jpg

    If you have a very crumbly/porous surface you can soak and harden it with this first:
    twws3itsds3c.jpg



  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    edited November 2023
    F1nut wrote: »
    I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
    https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm

    I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.

    The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.

    Jesse,

    Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..


    Edit: I just watched the video, one stick looks like it will be more than enough.
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,752
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
    https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm

    I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.

    The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.


    Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..

    Not gonna do it. Too easy 😎
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,500
    edited November 2023
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
    https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm

    I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.

    The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.

    Jesse,

    Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..

    Way more than enough. The stick itself is about 7.5" long by 7/8" in diameter. You might use an inch of it. Cut off and knead just enough for each area and work fast. Large amounts harden quicker than small amounts.

    When kneading and using water as a lube you want your fingers damp, not wet. Too much water will make a mess of the putty.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    F1nut wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
    https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm

    I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.

    The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.

    Jesse,

    Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..

    Way more than enough. The stick itself is about 7.5" long by 7/8" in diameter. You might use an inch of it. Cut off and kneed just enough for each area and work fast. Large amounts harden quicker than small amounts.

    Thanks Jesse!!

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,500
    Another tip. When doing corners and edges with any of those products it's best to rough in the filler rather than trying to make it perfect, that comes after the filler has fully cured. I like to use a brand new single edge razor blade to cut off the excess, which keeps any sanding to the bare minimum.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    Ordered from Amazon, saved me on shipping, Mohawk wanted $19.00 to ship it. Amazon was free..
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    Jesse,

    This stuff is amazing, easy to use, quick and easy to sand.
    I definitely won’t even use an inch on this stuff.
    I did the corners just as you suggested. Pressed in, roughed it in, and sanded it into shape, a little finesse goes a long way..
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,500
    Great, I'm glad it worked out for you. If you keep the rest in an air tight container you can extend its shelf life.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk