ABATRON WoodEpox Monitor 7’s
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Toolfan66
Posts: 16,945
Anyone used this stuff before? I have some Monitor 7’s with some small nicked corners, and along the back edge I would like to fill so I have a nice square edge before I vinyl wrap these.
They are small nicks and they are all just along the back side.
They are small nicks and they are all just along the back side.
Comments
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Abatron would be a great amplifier company name- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm
I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.
The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Here's another option I've successfully used for years. It's very similar to the Abatron product, but is a bit more tacky and workable before curing IMHO:
If you have a very crumbly/porous surface you can soak and harden it with this first:
Polk Audio first generation RTA-12s; 12 inch Polk Stands; DHS Speaker Service upgraded crossovers w/ Sonicap/Mills; the "westmassguy anti-lobing mod" (hyperdamped outer drivers/mirror imaged); tweeter anti-diffraction mod; Cardas binding posts; Neotech UPOCC internal wire; foam-lined inner driver baskets; xschop phase plugs; deleted fuses; Hurricane nuts; Sonic Barrier; Dynamat XtremeAyre K-5xeMP preamplifierCambridge Audio 840C CD player; Herbie's Audio Lab Super Black Hole CD MatD-Sonic Custom Audio M3a-600M monoblock amplifiersNAD 4155 FM/AM tunerSilnote Audio Morpheus Reference II Series II balanced interconnects; Virtue Audio single-ended interconnectsKimber 12TC speaker cable w/Furez connectors; VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables w/Furutech connectorsHerbie's Audio Lab system isolation: Tenderfeet, Big Fat Dots, Grungebuster Dots, Little Fat GlidersDedicated 20A/10 AWG circuit; Furutech GTX-D (G) outlet; Furutech eTP80; Shunyata Research Venom Defender; Synergistic Research Orange fuses -
I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm
I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.
The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.
Jesse,
Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..
Edit: I just watched the video, one stick looks like it will be more than enough. -
I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm
I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.
The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.
Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..
Not gonna do it. Too easy 😎 -
I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm
I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.
The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.
Jesse,
Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..
Way more than enough. The stick itself is about 7.5" long by 7/8" in diameter. You might use an inch of it. Cut off and knead just enough for each area and work fast. Large amounts harden quicker than small amounts.
When kneading and using water as a lube you want your fingers damp, not wet. Too much water will make a mess of the putty.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I use the Mohawk epoxy stick.
https://www.mohawkproducts.com/Mohawk-Epoxy-Putty-Sticks-Standard-Colors-p/m743.htm
I do it differently than what their video shows. I only use the natural color and dampen my fingers with a little bit of water as a lube when mixing it otherwise it sticks to my fingers. After pressing into place I use a putty knife dipped in water to remove the excess and smooth out the area. I've found it works best to wait 24 hours before sanding, coloring and top coating.
The reason I only use the natural is the repair has to be colored/blended anyway.
Jesse,
Do you think one stick will do what I need? I don ‘t see where is says how big the stick is..
Way more than enough. The stick itself is about 7.5" long by 7/8" in diameter. You might use an inch of it. Cut off and kneed just enough for each area and work fast. Large amounts harden quicker than small amounts.
Thanks Jesse!!
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Another tip. When doing corners and edges with any of those products it's best to rough in the filler rather than trying to make it perfect, that comes after the filler has fully cured. I like to use a brand new single edge razor blade to cut off the excess, which keeps any sanding to the bare minimum.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ordered from Amazon, saved me on shipping, Mohawk wanted $19.00 to ship it. Amazon was free..
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Jesse,
This stuff is amazing, easy to use, quick and easy to sand.
I definitely won’t even use an inch on this stuff.
I did the corners just as you suggested. Pressed in, roughed it in, and sanded it into shape, a little finesse goes a long way.. -
Great, I'm glad it worked out for you. If you keep the rest in an air tight container you can extend its shelf life.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
