Recommended adjustment of PWS10

Had my PWS10 for a couple of years. Can someone suggest the best way to set up the switches, volume, low pass, phase, etc to prevent booming? tiazszy0xro7i6c.jpg
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Answers

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    Are you using the LFE output from your receiver?
  • Thank you for responding. Sorry, but what is an LFE output? My Pioneer VSX-1020 has a sub out cable which I have going through a RCA splitter to the L and R inputs on the PSW10. After just reading the Polk manual on line, it says to rotate the Low Pass fully clockwise to 160hz. Not sure what that achieves and why it shouldn't be set at 60hz for example? I now set the switch to auto on, because the sub is always plugged in. My L and R speakers are Klipsch Forte so plenty of bass from them, so I'm still confused about the function of that Low Pass filter, and what that 160hz setting actually means.
  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
    edited October 2023
    Mecheng, that is a boomy-sounding woofer that distorts as soon as anything close to normal listening levels are reached.

    The best recommendation anyone can make concerning a PSW10 is trade it in somewhere, and be happy with whatever amount you can receive for it.

    A low-pass filter means exactly what it sounds like; any frequency below the one selected on the woofer is what the woofer will play (as low as it is capable of anyway).

    If you need a very affordable decent sub, look for RSL Speedwoofer 10S, REL HT1003, or SVS SB1000 Pro.

    Good luck.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    edited October 2023
    If you had a dedicated LFE out (low frequency effect) you would turn the low pass clockwise all the way to defeat the internal crossover on the subs amp. You do not have a LFE so you need to integrate it with your Klipsch speakers. I'd personally start at 80hz. That way you're sub is blending in from 80hz and down. You get more boomy the higher it's set.

    I agree with above. Those subs are boomy as a rule.
  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    If you had a dedicated LFE out (low frequency effect) you would turn the low pass clockwise all the way to defeat the internal crossover on the subs amp. You do not have a LFE so you need to integrate it with your Klipsch speakers. I'd personally start at 80hz. That way you're sub is blending in from 80hz and down. You get more boomy the higher it's set.

    I agree with above. Those subs are boomy as a rule.

    Also, a more modern receiver can be had for ca. $125-$150 with remote and calibration mic. These will help get better sound at the listening seat and determine the speaker/sub crossover point for you.

    What speakers do you have?
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
  • Thank you guys, that's some useful information.!
  • Klipsch Center , Klipsch Forte L&R, Klipsch Atmos R41SA, rear speakers too.
    Actually the Pioneer does have calibration mike, etc,etc and a manual 1in thick that is crazy detailed and confusing. But I do always want an excuse to buy new stuff, and a Denon seems like a good way to go.
  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
    Why not just try your calibration mic? Seems like a good place to start, then swap out the sub with a better one.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.