Eico 232 VTVM & GetBack Tester

SCompRacer
SCompRacer Posts: 8,492
edited September 2023 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Picked up a non-functioning Eico 232 vacuum tube voltmeter cheap. Figured if it can't be repaired, it would look kewl sitting on a bench. The guy also had this Flyback tester which was used on TV's. This gear reminds me of my Uncle Bernie who fixed TV's and tube gear back in the day. He was my first electronics instructor. Tubes are 12AU7 and 6AL5.

EICO was around from 1945 until 1999 and produced equipment in both kit and assembled form. They are kind of like a box of chocolates. :)

This 232 was in nice shape on the inside. The battery hadn't leaked acid and still had 1.35v in it. You can tell it had been worked hard as the paper caps were sweating badly. :D The function selector, part 60025, was broken. I picked up a poor condition donor 232 locally for ten bucks. The selector was good. It even had the more robust function selector, part 60067!

I replaced the five caps, four film and one electrolytic. I downloaded an assembly manual and checked for proper wiring and assembly of resistors. I tested the resistors, and they were all good. The line on the end of the film caps indicates outside foil and were installed with line or outside foil to low impedance side of the circuit. Some folks claim it doesn't make much of a difference. IIRC Ken had shown us in one of his threads how he checks for the outside foil end of film caps.

I splurged on Vishay for most of the caps. They don't make the exact .025uf value so I piggy backed the two .022uf with .003uf. What surprised me is they had the outside foil end marked with a line. I tested them with my scope and sure enough, the line indicated the outside foil.

I lacked the correct resistors to replace the Selenium rectifier mounted on top panel. Output of the original was 47v (spec is 50) so I left it in until the next Mouser order shows up. Folks typically use a 1N4007 diode with a 200 Ohm resistor to get the correct voltage.

I disassembled and cleaned the probe. It switches between AC/Ohms and DC. The 1 meg resistor in the probe for DC was still good. I left it on a for a couple of hours and recalibrated it. Eico suggests a minimum of two hours but suggests 36 hours of warm up before calibrating.

It works!

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Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    Shore is purrty!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    Amazing!
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Very nice restoration job, Rich! I love the plexiglass back of the meter, nice. VTVM's are still very useful for all kind of applications. The probe looks in great shape, most of the time they're pretty banged up.
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,492
    edited September 2023
    Thanks for the kind words! Some sellers don't even have the probes. I've seen folks make separate probes, adding the resistor on the DC probe.

    The probe just needed disassembly and the copper straps/contact cam cleaned. For folks that didn't know, you rotate the probe tip for AC/Ohms and DC measurements. The DC selection adds a 1M(ega) Ohm resistor located above the copper contact straps.

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    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,492
    edited October 2023
    Finished the Eico 232 project. Replaced selenium rectifier with a 1N4007 diode. Used existing hole for selenium to mount terminal strip. A 330-ohm 2-watt metal resistor gets me close to target of 50vdc. IIRC the selenium was ~ 46vdc. The line voltage is down today too, 118. We are typically at 122-124vac.

    A seller on ebay offers a battery eliminator for the 232. You use the Eico 6.3v supply to power it. Maybe a future project...

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    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    Awesome, Rich. Don't know if you remember speaking w/me @ PF '12 but I almost went down the DAC build rabbit hole after following you on-line and our passionate/interesting discussion at Polk HQ. Ended up buying a nice DAC, rather, but it's always been in the back of my mind that I'd wished I had done it. Equally, I really enjoy all your posts.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,492
    Thanks for the kind words!

    Now that you mention it, I had to excite a few brain cells and do recall. I learned a great deal about digital building DAC's and trying different inputs, output boards, etc. When you DIY, you (and/or the forums) are tech support...lol Twisted Pear is folding as Russ White is no longer interested or affiliated so there will be no new DAC chip offerings.

    I finally bought a DAC myself! I have a Gustard R26 with Singzer SU-6 DDC. The DDC provides USB isolation as the R26 doesn't. The DDC also has better temp-controlled clock. DDC sends I2S over HDMI to DAC. The R26 also has a LAN input which I'll use when my server quits.

    I still have the Sonore Server with external power supply, SOtM USB card with external PS. I upgraded the CPU and memory, installed SSD drive for op system 6TB spinner for music. I was able to chuck vortexbox as Roon Rock op system worked on it. I use Roon to convert PCM to DSD512.

    Looking at your sig, looks like you are doing OK!
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *