PSW10 Subwoofer Auto ON/OFF Feature (Tip)
robert_2
Posts: 1
When I turn off my receiver-amplifier, an audible 60Hz hum goes thru the subwoofer because apparently it only filters-out the 60Hz hum when the receiver is on. (Called an active filter).
This is fine as long as the PSW10 Subwoofer turns itself off after 15 minutes when using the Auto-Off feature (middle switch setting). However, it would not always turn off although I thought it did when the subwoofer was new.
When investigating, the subwoofer will turn off if the RCA cables are unplugged from the back of the subwoofer (not very convenient). It will also turn off if the receiver's AC plug is completely unplugged from the wall (also not very convenient).
What this is probably saying is that a signal is somehow leaking from the receiver even after it is switched off. After all, the PSW10 Subwoofer did its job when the RCA cables were eventually pulled from the back. It is the receiver that most likely developed a signal-leak causing the subwoofer to remain on.
But there remains one more chance for a fix: The receiver has a speaker-to-headphone switch to shut off any signal from the back speaker terminals (to make the audio go to the headphones only). When trying this - it worked - and the PSW10's Auto Off feature turned off after 15 minutes. (This is not so inconvenient - problem solved).
This is fine as long as the PSW10 Subwoofer turns itself off after 15 minutes when using the Auto-Off feature (middle switch setting). However, it would not always turn off although I thought it did when the subwoofer was new.
When investigating, the subwoofer will turn off if the RCA cables are unplugged from the back of the subwoofer (not very convenient). It will also turn off if the receiver's AC plug is completely unplugged from the wall (also not very convenient).
What this is probably saying is that a signal is somehow leaking from the receiver even after it is switched off. After all, the PSW10 Subwoofer did its job when the RCA cables were eventually pulled from the back. It is the receiver that most likely developed a signal-leak causing the subwoofer to remain on.
But there remains one more chance for a fix: The receiver has a speaker-to-headphone switch to shut off any signal from the back speaker terminals (to make the audio go to the headphones only). When trying this - it worked - and the PSW10's Auto Off feature turned off after 15 minutes. (This is not so inconvenient - problem solved).
Comments
-
I didn’t read your post, but would ditch this and get a better sub.CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
I didn’t read your post, but would ditch this and get a better sub.
@ $99.00 (used to be anyway) the PSW10 was tough to beat. I've had mine for over 2yrs now and it's still going strong. No issues at all. Auto On/Off works perfectly and for what it is, this sub performs well in my medium/small living room. For my needs, I don't need a ton of power or a sub that can blow out my windows and rattle pictures from off the walls. What sucks is the price increases since Covid and the BS supply chain issues & policies that caused the inflation. What used to be a good deal on a decent subwoofer isn't anymore. -
I didn’t read your post, but would ditch this and get a better sub.
@ $99.00 (used to be anyway) the PSW10 was tough to beat. I've had mine for over 2yrs now and it's still going strong. No issues at all. Auto On/Off works perfectly and for what it is, this sub performs well in my medium/small living room. For my needs, I don't need a ton of power or a sub that can blow out my windows and rattle pictures from off the walls. What sucks is the price increases since Covid and the BS supply chain issues & policies that caused the inflation. What used to be a good deal on a decent subwoofer isn't anymore.
I had one and didn’t like it at all. It’s a ****-woofer.CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
I didn’t read your post, but would ditch this and get a better sub.
@ $99.00 (used to be anyway) the PSW10 was tough to beat. I've had mine for over 2yrs now and it's still going strong. No issues at all. Auto On/Off works perfectly and for what it is, this sub performs well in my medium/small living room. For my needs, I don't need a ton of power or a sub that can blow out my windows and rattle pictures from off the walls. What sucks is the price increases since Covid and the BS supply chain issues & policies that caused the inflation. What used to be a good deal on a decent subwoofer isn't anymore.
I had one and didn’t like it at all. It’s a ****-woofer.
I said “fort-woofer” (replace the first “o” with an “a”).
Vanilla’s so sensitive. 😂CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
If you are running a 2.1 set up have you tried wiring to the high level input on the sub instead of the RCA?
Just a thought. -
I didn’t read your post, but would ditch this and get a better sub.
@ $99.00 (used to be anyway) the PSW10 was tough to beat. I've had mine for over 2yrs now and it's still going strong. No issues at all. Auto On/Off works perfectly and for what it is, this sub performs well in my medium/small living room. For my needs, I don't need a ton of power or a sub that can blow out my windows and rattle pictures from off the walls. What sucks is the price increases since Covid and the BS supply chain issues & policies that caused the inflation. What used to be a good deal on a decent subwoofer isn't anymore.
I had one and didn’t like it at all. It’s a ****-woofer.
I said “fort-woofer” (replace the first “o” with an “a”).
Vanilla’s so sensitive. 😂
Dang boy! What'chu been eating? I think understand your moniker a bit better now. -
I didn’t read your post, but would ditch this and get a better sub.
@ $99.00 (used to be anyway) the PSW10 was tough to beat. I've had mine for over 2yrs now and it's still going strong. No issues at all. Auto On/Off works perfectly and for what it is, this sub performs well in my medium/small living room. For my needs, I don't need a ton of power or a sub that can blow out my windows and rattle pictures from off the walls. What sucks is the price increases since Covid and the BS supply chain issues & policies that caused the inflation. What used to be a good deal on a decent subwoofer isn't anymore.
I had one and didn’t like it at all. It’s a ****-woofer.
I said “fort-woofer” (replace the first “o” with an “a”).
Vanilla’s so sensitive. 😂
Dang boy! What'chu been eating? I think understand your moniker a bit better now.
I love me some Mexican food, chili, and Del Taco (though no longer available in StL, MO).
Rest assured my “forts” are way more capable of deep, detailed, and textured bass frequency output than the Pooey Shart Windbreaker - 10 (PSW-10).CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
-
CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
We do. It's wonderful.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Yep, being blocked by certain persons is the highest honor and most glorious benefit.CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.