GIMPOD boards - Install and Mounting in SDA SRS 2.3s
AMF007
Posts: 21
Project:
So, I took the long weekend to come up with a mounting system for my new gimpod boards into my SDA SRS 2.3s. I also built up the boards with the components I had already stocked up on hand (Thanks Dave Shirley for component guidance). I have to say the instructions and tips from the old gimpod site were great and saved me any rework! (Thanks Jim for your "left-over gimpods")
Building a Mounting system for the Gimpods:
I removed the PRs, and pulled out my stock crossovers. I had already previously removed my original 16mh coil and had mounted new Jantzen 16mh coils to the side of each cabinet (great upgrade BTW!!)
I decided to build a new mounting board for the gimpods to attach to and use the existing 1/4" hole in the cabinet that mounted the original 16mh coil. I hated those clunky standoffs that used to mount the stock XO to the coil (I get they had to do it cheap but still, lot of weight to hang on that type standoff). Like many others, when I first got my 2.3s, the XOs were dangling one 1 standoff held up mostly by the wiring!
I chose 15/32" 5 ply finished plywood, and cut 11" x 6" pieces, slightly larger than the gimpod boards. I decided to use brass 8/32 screws and inserts (Home Depot) to mount the gimpods to the boards, also using 1" standoffs. By placing the board up tight against the cabinet front/back cross brace, and to the side against the cabinet side brace, the single mounting hole would be enough to keep the mounting board securely in place. Not all 8 holes in the gimpods are required for solid mounting. I used 6.
I had to do some secondary trimming to clear my binding cup wiring, and the right one I had tried to trim a small piece to "lock" the mounting board to the side brace (worked good, not really needed)
Using this method, you could either mount the gimpods to the mounting board, then to the cabinet, or the mounting board to the cabinet, then mount the gimpods. I chose the latter. If you use a 1/4-20 tee nut in the mounting board, it would be simple to mount the completed assembly into the cabinet. BTW, I used the original hex head bolt cut down to 1.75", and a washer and nylock nut.
Testing and Audition:
To ensure there were no catastrophic mis-wires or wrong placement of components, I checked the DCR from my "pre-gimpod" 2.3s which was done after the Jantzen coil upgrades. It was spot on at 3.8ohms, which was the last reading from the stock XOs.
I turned on my system to do a cursory low-level listen to all drivers prior to reinstalling the PRs. Everything was working! Surprising how much bass you still get at low volume WITH THE PRs out!.
Reinstalled the PRs, and on to first listening test, amp cold, new components (not "burned-in" for those in the 100hr burn-in club). WOW!
Immediately noticed a much wider soundstage. It felt like the room was much bigger, I heard clearer mids and highs (no poly switch, jumper in place). Bass was super tight and accurate. I auditioned some well known tunes for about 90 minutes. I can't wait to get more hours of listening on them ...
Attached are a few pics of build up and things mounted up. Cheers!
So, I took the long weekend to come up with a mounting system for my new gimpod boards into my SDA SRS 2.3s. I also built up the boards with the components I had already stocked up on hand (Thanks Dave Shirley for component guidance). I have to say the instructions and tips from the old gimpod site were great and saved me any rework! (Thanks Jim for your "left-over gimpods")
Building a Mounting system for the Gimpods:
I removed the PRs, and pulled out my stock crossovers. I had already previously removed my original 16mh coil and had mounted new Jantzen 16mh coils to the side of each cabinet (great upgrade BTW!!)
I decided to build a new mounting board for the gimpods to attach to and use the existing 1/4" hole in the cabinet that mounted the original 16mh coil. I hated those clunky standoffs that used to mount the stock XO to the coil (I get they had to do it cheap but still, lot of weight to hang on that type standoff). Like many others, when I first got my 2.3s, the XOs were dangling one 1 standoff held up mostly by the wiring!
I chose 15/32" 5 ply finished plywood, and cut 11" x 6" pieces, slightly larger than the gimpod boards. I decided to use brass 8/32 screws and inserts (Home Depot) to mount the gimpods to the boards, also using 1" standoffs. By placing the board up tight against the cabinet front/back cross brace, and to the side against the cabinet side brace, the single mounting hole would be enough to keep the mounting board securely in place. Not all 8 holes in the gimpods are required for solid mounting. I used 6.
I had to do some secondary trimming to clear my binding cup wiring, and the right one I had tried to trim a small piece to "lock" the mounting board to the side brace (worked good, not really needed)
Using this method, you could either mount the gimpods to the mounting board, then to the cabinet, or the mounting board to the cabinet, then mount the gimpods. I chose the latter. If you use a 1/4-20 tee nut in the mounting board, it would be simple to mount the completed assembly into the cabinet. BTW, I used the original hex head bolt cut down to 1.75", and a washer and nylock nut.
Testing and Audition:
To ensure there were no catastrophic mis-wires or wrong placement of components, I checked the DCR from my "pre-gimpod" 2.3s which was done after the Jantzen coil upgrades. It was spot on at 3.8ohms, which was the last reading from the stock XOs.
I turned on my system to do a cursory low-level listen to all drivers prior to reinstalling the PRs. Everything was working! Surprising how much bass you still get at low volume WITH THE PRs out!.
Reinstalled the PRs, and on to first listening test, amp cold, new components (not "burned-in" for those in the 100hr burn-in club). WOW!
Immediately noticed a much wider soundstage. It felt like the room was much bigger, I heard clearer mids and highs (no poly switch, jumper in place). Bass was super tight and accurate. I auditioned some well known tunes for about 90 minutes. I can't wait to get more hours of listening on them ...
Attached are a few pics of build up and things mounted up. Cheers!
Comments
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Nice clean work.2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
NICE WORK !!
I'm contemplating getting some C-coils, did you buy yours from parts express? I went with Erse the first time. I can't help but think maybe I should try the C-coil to see if it brings anything more to the party. -
Thanks @pitdogg2
Yeah, I think I did get them at Parts Express, about $130+? each. Other than my 194 tweeter upgrade, I had the coils done next, and BOOM SHAKA-LAKA! Welcome to the Party! Do it! Now, that coupled with fresh caps make everything tight as I imagine it would have been from the factory (better I am sure due to components). -
C coil is THE sda coil- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Nicely done! Those are going to sound SWEET! when they are done burning in.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
