LSi 15 stand cracked... any tips on repair or replacement?

tydumont
tydumont Posts: 3
in Technical/Setup
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So I got a pair of LSi 15s from the thrift store for only 80 bucks! They work perfectly however one of the stands was cracked and so my right channel does not stand up straight. The crack caused one of the bottom screws to be titled in a really weird way as well. Any tips on how to repair or replace this?
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,160
    Does the gap close completely with clamping?

    If so, maybe make sure the gap is clean, fill with PowerGrab and clamp between two pieces of MDF scraps?

    Just something to even the compression and prevent marring of the surfaces.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,602
    Thinking out loud here. Why couldn't you remove the metal insert, drill out the hole larger to fit a round hardwood dowel rod glue it in and redrill out a hole for the insert and screw it back in.
    That piece with the spike I'd use a thinner glue like titebond, it will seep in deeper and may glue and hold better.
    Then clamp together for 12-24 hours before you mess with it.
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  • tydumont
    tydumont Posts: 3
    msg wrote: »
    Does the gap close completely with clamping?

    If so, maybe make sure the gap is clean, fill with PowerGrab and clamp between two pieces of MDF scraps?

    Just something to even the compression and prevent marring of the surfaces.

    Unfortunately it does not close all the way. There's a lot of missing wood. Thanks for the reply regardless
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  • tydumont
    tydumont Posts: 3
    edited July 2023
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Thinking out loud here. Why couldn't you remove the metal insert, drill out the hole larger to fit a round hardwood dowel rod glue it in and redrill out a hole for the insert and screw it back in.
    That piece with the spike I'd use a thinner glue like titebond, it will seep in deeper and may glue and hold better.
    Then clamp together for 12-24 hours before you mess with it.

    That dowel rod idea is actually genius! I was struggling to find a way to use glue without messing with the screw area. I'll probably go ahead and attempt something like this
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,160
    tydumont wrote: »
    msg wrote: »
    Does the gap close completely with clamping?

    If so, maybe make sure the gap is clean, fill with PowerGrab and clamp between two pieces of MDF scraps?

    Just something to even the compression and prevent marring of the surfaces.

    Unfortunately it does not close all the way. There's a lot of missing wood. Thanks for the reply regardless

    I was meaning more, does the crack area close all the way. The point was for getting the plinth flat again.

    I may be misunderstanding the problem, as well. Is the plinth split/cracked, or just missing material on the front edge? If it's split, you could gently spread it a bit and shoot some Titebond in there as well. I agree, would definitely flow better.

    @pitdogg2 's idea for Titebond is probably best for both repairs.

    Get the dowel portion situated first, and then address the crack so that the glue repairs for both are curing at the same time.
    I disabled signatures.
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