Should I trade SDA1c for RTA15TL?
Comments
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Current draw also depends on amplifier class, class A amps of high power can draw many amperes of current continuously.
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Current draw also depends on amplifier class, class A amps of high power can draw many amperes of current continuously.
Oh yeah I know that, but people seem to think high current means tons of output current, which just isn't the case for most scenarios. -
Until you have heard a high current amp with sda's you will never know what you are missing.i went from an adcom gfa555 to a krell ksa 300s, and it was a very big difference even though the adcom had a higher damping factor.
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I'm sure they perform better don't get me wrong, I'm just saying that an amp labeled high current which isn't pushing obscene amounts of wattage as output is not actually supplying your speakers with "high current" and I see too many people think that's what it is.
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You could have a higher voltage amp with less current and still arrive at the same wattage.
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Ohms law. The voltage and current depend on each other and are directly related to the ohmage. You can't have a speaker draw 7 amps while only playing at 3V, it directly violates the laws of physics.
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Until you have heard a high current amp with sda's you will never know what you are missing.i went from an adcom gfa555 to a krell ksa 300s, and it was a very big difference even though the adcom had a higher damping factor.
Yep case in point, went from Adcom largest most powerful amp IIRC 5802 300wpc
To a Aragon 8008bb 200wpc doubles down to 2ohm. It just stomped tha Adcom in every way.
Those 4 blue caps are larger than an old Fosters beer can if you remember the old "oil" cans. Those are two 1200 volt amp torrids IIRC one for each channel.
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You can have higher voltage rails like some carver amps have and have lower current. High voltage transmission power lines are high voltage and low current also.
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Until you have heard a high current amp with sda's you will never know what you are missing.
Any members close to western NY state with that kind of setup please let me know cause I'm willing to drive if I can have a listen! -
Right but the difference is that the speaker itself has an impedance which can only accept a certain voltage and amperage which changes with volume control and frequency.
A speaker at 8 ohms will draw 14.1V and 1.8A no matter what amp you use. The amplifier could be high voltage low current or vice versa, but what the speaker draws is going to depend on its impedance.
Also case in point, if you tried to power a speaker that was say, 2 ohms, with a "high current" amp capable of providing "130 amperes" per channel as the Nu-Vista supposedly can, here's what would happen.
12 AWG speaker wire can safely handle up to ~20A.
If you were to, say, throw 130A through that, what would happen? Well I can tell you for a fact you can test this. Go and grab an old oven and throw a 12 AWG speaker wire in place of the heating element and turn it on. If the breaker doesn't trip, you'll have an obscene amount of current running through it, and it'll melt within a few seconds.
So if a "high current" amp were to really supply 130A of current to a speaker, and if a speaker were to really constantly use that amount of current, you'd have a red hot mess of molten copper on the floor.
Of course, the wire COULD carry 130A at a very low voltage, but as we have observed with ohms law, in order to have 130A running through the wire, you'd need an extremely high voltage as well, like, in the hundreds if not thousands, which isn't happening.
Finally, I feel like I really need to emphasize that I do not think a 150W amp, for instance, is worse than a 300W one just because of the current. It's also the ability for the amplifier to handle those peaks of volume in the track, but also smooth out the power going into the amplifier in order to have cleaner power for more detail to the loudspeaker.
Amps are complicated, and lower wattage amps DRAWING tons of current have an excellent reason to do so, but don't expect high current output. -
Wrong, a 12 awg wire can handle hundreds of amperes for very short durations without melting
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Correct, I'm talking continuous.
If the peak power supplied 130A of power, yeah the wire could easily handle that. Too bad peak power is a fraction of a second and only relevant to how an amp handles very brief clipping.
Therefore a high current amp, yet again, is not truly supplying high current, even though it may he capable of it, the speaker will only be drawing a few amps with peaks drawing maybe double that or triple that, but generally never going above 10A. Mind you 10A is a lot of current, but my Onkyo provides that.
What my Onkyo doesn't provide is quality power. Which is actually purely based on the filter capacitors in the power supply (no joke). -
A speaker for one will not stay at one "ohm" value it slides back and forth depending on frequency. It could be as high as 10ohm and as low as 2ohm. That 8 ohm is nominal as in 9-6 ohm
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Yes, of course! That's where amps which do have ratings down to, say, a half ohm are important, as they were designed with the ability to handle lower impedance, therefore could handle the speakers fluctuation of impedance better.
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Chris, all you are doing is showing how little you actually know, so stop.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Chris, all you are doing is showing how little you actually know, so stop.
I'll stop out of courtesy, but you aren't going to convince me I'm wrong -
It's not just based on the supply capacitance, it's the whole power supply, you can't just add capacitance to an amp willy nilly. Guess what part of an amplifier cost the most money to build.
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Ooh ooh ooh I know!!
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I'd guess it's where all the copper lives
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Guys..... I think I found my problem. These color coded caps are definitely on the wrong sides. Even pulled the PR put and checked the wiring to be sure. With my speaker wires hooked up according to the label all my issues are resolved.
I can't seem to get these caps to come off the posts though, seems like they're captive? They'll unthread but they do not come completely off the post. Am I missing something? -
Wow. Is the right one that way, too, or just the left?
I would think the binding posts would have had to be removed and reinstalled in the incorrect locations for that to happen. Unless, of course, it was assembled from the factory that way. 😳
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
No, the right speaker is correct. There's a wire nut on a black wire in the left speaker. Someone has been here before is my guess.
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The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
The plastic binding post cap can be removed and switched. Unfortunately it's a common occurrence.
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chrispyfur wrote: »No, the right speaker is correct. There's a wire nut on a black wire in the left speaker. Someone has been here before is my guess.
Do both speakers have that type of binding post?
My SDAs have the original knurled plastic nuts that come off.
Good that you checked the wiring.
So are you hearing a profound difference?
And all your drivers are working properly?
I disabled signatures. -
@msg no, the posts (caps at least) are definitely not the same. I'm guessing the left speaker has had them replaced and they were reinstalled backwards, and that's why I can't remove the caps.
The difference is night and day. I have a couple of drivers that have tears in the surrounds that the previous owner glued. The right speaker I can hear starts "popping" from that one driver at higher volumes. However, you have to put the juice to it to get that to happen, and at lower volumes I'll say these things sound very nice.
I've got ebay set to email me if any used drivers get posted. I need one of the 6510 and one of the 6511. -
Sounds like the perfect time to upgrade the binding posts.
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One of my 6510 drivers seems to be moving much further than any of the other drivers while playing at higher volumes. Took it out of the cabinet just now and it tested 11 ohms vs the other one at 8. It was working though, held it in my hand for a few seconds with a movie playing to test it and it's definitely not dead.
Wonder if it is weak and isn't being controlled well causing it to act sort of like a passive radiator? It was moving about 1.5 or 2x as far as the other drivers. -
There are some discussions going on about driver repairs and testing. Some of the veterans will have a better sense for which drivers are hard to find.
One of the other guys also recently mentioned SearchTempest, so that's an option, too, for search aggregation.
US Audio Mart is good.
If you go to HiFi Shark, you can search and setup an account for notifications for when stuff comes up for sale on several of the audio marketplaces. Sometimes it can be a little late to notify, and you can miss the more sought after stuff, but overall, it's pretty good.
Lots of threads about the vintage speaker mods, too, once you get settled.I disabled signatures. -
chrispyfur wrote: »One of my 6510 drivers seems to be moving much further than any of the other drivers while playing at higher volumes. Took it out of the cabinet just now and it tested 11 ohms vs the other one at 8. It was working though, held it in my hand for a few seconds with a movie playing to test it and it's definitely not dead.
Wonder if it is weak and isn't being controlled well causing it to act sort of like a passive radiator? It was moving about 1.5 or 2x as far as the other drivers.
Check that the spider hasn't separated from the cone.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
