PROJECT: Complete RT3000p amp rebuild
Comments
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shopdog328 wrote: »Thanks for the reply and info
When powered on the speakers hum in an intermittent pattern. About 1 second off and one second on. Had one rebuilt about 15 years ago by Polk,been using the system for a downstairs HT very sparingly, bit now my kids are older and want to use it more.
Toying with picking up a Dayton plate amp or a Bergenger nx3000 amp.
Sounds like a filter cap issue there honestly. If you aren't handy, or don't want to bother, I'd just run them passive or use an aftermarket plate amp and mate it to the cabinet.
Keep your old amps though, never know if someone will want them (like me) to try and repair. -
shopdog328 wrote: »Thanks for the reply and info
When powered on the speakers hum in an intermittent pattern. About 1 second off and one second on. Had one rebuilt about 15 years ago by Polk,been using the system for a downstairs HT very sparingly, bit now my kids are older and want to use it more.
Toying with picking up a Dayton plate amp or a Bergenger nx3000 amp.
I am in the exact same boat. One dead amp. I measured the speakers in series with my multimeter in Ohms mode and it came back at 4 ohms. One individual speaker measured at 2 ohms. I don't know if this is accurate however. If indeed they are each 4 ohms, I am thinking they can be wired in parallel to a Dayton Audio SPA300-D or SPA250 amp and hopefully it will be enough power. This should work, right? If so, anyone want my other amp for a reasonable price? I would buy two plate amps so they match. The SPA300-D mounted sideways would fit the opening. The SPA250 would required cutting the hole bigger and would go right to the outer edge of the speakers (just under the width).
Back to the original topic, this is a very interesting project, but I am wondering why rebuild the original amp when a plate amp does the same thing essentially. Is the original amp more capable? I have a 200 watt per channel home theater amp that I run to the main part of the RT3000p. -
shopdog328 wrote: »Thanks for the reply and info
When powered on the speakers hum in an intermittent pattern. About 1 second off and one second on. Had one rebuilt about 15 years ago by Polk,been using the system for a downstairs HT very sparingly, bit now my kids are older and want to use it more.
Toying with picking up a Dayton plate amp or a Bergenger nx3000 amp.
I am in the exact same boat. One dead amp. I measured the speakers in series with my multimeter in Ohms mode and it came back at 4 ohms. One individual speaker measured at 2 ohms. I don't know if this is accurate however. If indeed they are each 4 ohms, I am thinking they can be wired in parallel to a Dayton Audio SPA300-D or SPA250 amp and hopefully it will be enough power. This should work, right? If so, anyone want my other amp for a reasonable price? I would buy two plate amps so they match. The SPA300-D mounted sideways would fit the opening. The SPA250 would required cutting the hole bigger and would go right to the outer edge of the speakers (just under the width).
Back to the original topic, this is a very interesting project, but I am wondering why rebuild the original amp when a plate amp does the same thing essentially. Is the original amp more capable? I have a 200 watt per channel home theater amp that I run to the main part of the RT3000p.
>but I am wondering why rebuild the original amp when a plate amp does the same thing essentially.
It's simply just for novelty reasons, really. I'd like to rebuild it in a way which promotes longevity of the amp while also removing the need to mate a plate amp as it'd be compatible with the old heatsink and plate itself. Furthermore, it'd match Polk's exact specs.
Other than that, I dunno! I just thought it'd be a fun project. Right now depression and burnout caught up to me so I'm not doing much, just taking a lot of time to myself to get over this and that includes this project being placed on hold. I have tons of stuff planned out already, I just need to wait until I have the funds to go at this full steam and build the amps. -
Thanks. Just an update. I did get a Dayton Audio SPA300-D amp (two of them actually so I could match them in both speakers), and made a new backplate out of a black laminated rubbermade shelf from Home Depot and cut it down to fit the original amp plate hole using my router so it sits flush and has thickness inside, and cut a new smaller hole in the middle of it for the new amp to mount into. I determined that I needed to wire the two speakers in parallel to match the power/volume of the original Polk amp. With them in series I could turn the volume all the way to max and it would be just barely under where I wanted the volume to be. In parallel there is room to spare with the volume control. It sounds great!
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Looks good and you did a great job. Well done and big congrats to you, buddy.
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Here's a photo of how it turned out. -
I see these amps online right now for 148.00. This seems like a 50% off sale.
Is this what you paid also?
I plan on buying 2 spares at that price for the future if and when mine die.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Yes, I paid $148.98 each.
