Brush-on DeoxIT

bcwsrt

I have the small “nail polish” size bottles of the D100L and G100L that you brush on. I’ve been using it today on an older set of RCA cables I have, my speaker cables and some tubes. Really restored the gold finish on the set of RCA cables making them look like new again and made the tube pins look less grungy, too.

Before I go much further, I’m a little unclear on the instructions for this stuff, I guess particularly on the Gold. I think it’s clear that you wipe the Red off (along with the corrosion), but I see some conflicting info on the Gold (not necessarily on this site, but just in general). Some say to leave it because it bonds to the metals ans it evaporates and others say any excess should be removed. I think some of the things I’m reading are confusing the brush-on and spray versions of these products.

Thanks for any thoughts and clarifications.

pitdogg2

I brush on a little on an old tooth brush, brush it on and leave it. I also use it on tube pins the same way. A person I have bought many tubes from has told me that it can creep in a tube where the glass meets the pins. I've never had it happen but she was adamant that is had happen to her enough to warn me. So take that with a grain of salt.

bcwsrt

Thanks, Ivan. I can see where the brush it comes with might leave more excess behind than the toothbrush method you described. I’ll give that a try the next time and won’t wipe it off like I did today.

I’m not sure what I think about it wicking through the tube pins. My first thought is it seems like some other bad stuff would have eventually been in store at some point for those same tubes.

VR3

Seems like that would only happen on a bad tube for sure

F1nut

If it's like dripping wet just give it a light wipe. I like to let it air dry a bit before putting into service.

msg

I started using the G/F/D100L stuff that Ivan recommended, as well. I will say that the spray product does have its place, though, but the spray gold doesn't make sense to me.

Btw, anyone wanting to try the 100L stuffs, you can get a mini pack of all three on Chinazon for about $15, iirc.

I use a q-tip or a pipe cleaner to apply the 100L stuffs, so, kinda SIMILAR. Stuff is sort of like an oil, so I don't put it on heavy.

I clean the connections with the D100L, wipe and buff the with a small section of an old white t-shirt. Or for more heavily stained or oxidized stuff, I'll use a polishing wipe made for cleaning connections. Doug sells these in a kit at Douglas Connection. One wipe works for tens of uses. You can clean many cables and all connectors on several systems. With one. It's sort of like the way Brasso or other metal polishes work, except it doesn't take off the coating. I did that accidentally once using a jewler's rouge. I was like, oh man, this works great! Then I was like, hey, wait, why is this coating looking faded...

So after cleaning say RCA shields with the polishing wipes, I'll follow up with the D100L or D5 spray, and wipe clean, and dry. Or sometimes I'll use 99% ISO. This is one area that the spray can be okay, but I've learned to basically wrap everything with a t-shirt or blue shop towel before spraying. You know, so the spray gets on the part, and not everywhere else as well. Anyway, I dry after this step.

Then I'll apply a very thin film of G100L. I'll run around the shield with the swab, and then follow up with a clean swab to remove any excess, and leave the remainder. I do not wipe dry.

Same sort of similar process inside the jack, except I use a pipe cleaner, folded back once by an inch or so, and with a very loose twist. With this, I'll use D100L, and then follow up with 100% ISO to clean it off. Shoot some air jets in to dry thoroughly using canned air or a bulb duster - like for cameras or computer stuff. Then a small amount of the G100L on a swap or the folded pipe cleaner.

One of the benefits I've noticed with the G100L is when used with RCA connectors that are too tight. The G100 makes it easier to remove them, but also without letting them slip off.

I will say that the F100L is a different story, and here's where I say I might prefer the spray product. One of the things I like to do is take apart remotes to clean and condition the board and pads when I get a new piece of used gear. When I first got on to the 100 stuff, I used F100 a bit too liberally, and it was too heavy.
Consequently, the buttons didn't work very well, and I found that I had to hold them down for a second in order to register. Wasn't much worse performance than before. They at least felt better.

This one particular URC remote must have been from a heavy hander, and I suspect really mashed the power button unnecessarily. I really hate remotes with poor ergonomics, or poor button action, feel, or response. If you've never cleaned a remote, it's not difficult, and the benefits make it completely worthwhile. They work like new afterward, with great feel and response.

Anyway, took the remote apart again, and wiped the excess F100L and tried again. It was better, but there was a brief delay before some buttons would register.

One more time, I broke it down, and used the D5 spray to clean, and dried. Applied F5, wiped lightly, and reassembled. Muuuch better, worked like it should.

Lesson learned - less is more.

bcwsrt

I knew that I would get the definitive answers here. Thanks, gents!

To Jesse’s point, I think I reassembled the RCAs too quickly as I got some VERY audible distortion not long afterward. Shut everything down, had dinner, and then swapped the just-cleaned set out for another set and all was well again. I’ll try the cleaned and treated set again tomorrow AM, but I suspect they will be fine after having time to dry/cure.

I did notice the (welcomed) lubrication properties of the G100L, for sure, on the RCAs. 👍

Appreciate all the excellent feedback, even Scott’s. 😂

pitdogg2

VR3 wrote: »

Seems like that would only happen on a bad tube for sure

I tend to agree Trey.

Years ago @SCompRacer and I had a discussion about what metal the pins were made of. At the time he gave me a link and in that link it discussed that the metal pins and the glass needed to expand and contract the same amount to avoid breaking the seal around the 7 and 9 pin tubes base. The metal was chosen carefully for that reason. Still bending the pins or dropping the tube and having it land on a pin or 3 also could compromise the integrity at the junction so yes I could see some wicking into the inside of the tube if there was an over abundance of the Caig product there when the heat was applied in use.

I personally cannot see it just wicking inside as melted glass seals pretty darn good.

F1nut

Can't have a vacuum if something can get in.

msg

I'm never writing a proper post on mobile device again.
The typos make it look like I received writing fundamentals during these modern times. Yeesh.
I should just have posted the whole thing in Wingdings.

Tiny screen writing, no glasses 👓

bcwsrt

msg wrote: »

I'm never writing a proper post on mobile device again.
The typos make it look like I received writing fundamentals during these modern times.

…

Wait … Don’t you mean “… on [a] mobile device …” 🤔😝😂

msg

Gaht...

pitdogg2

You cannot hide behind those "holler" britches bro .. you be deep in da woods....deeeep!

msg

pitdogg2 wrote: »

You cannot hide behind those "holler" britches bro .. you be deep in da woods....deeeep!

WV fo' lyfe!

msg, Age 17; Graduation Photo

bcwsrt

What the h—l is that in the background of your high school graduation photo? It looks kinda like a small child … accompanied by … a wild turkey, or sumpin’.

msg

That is exactly correct - a small child attending a large bird. Or mini-Brontosaurus. We have those here, too. That's a campus photo.

pitdogg2

I'm dying here🤣🤣