Inverted Dust Cap

tiger4

New R700s. The mid-range dust cap is inverted on one speaker. It looks like it was assembled that way, not pushed in. Is this an issue? Should it be replaced?

Emlyn

I'd ask for a replacement.

F1nut

Clearly defective and should be replaced under warranty.

SeleniumFalcon

Kim responded to @tiger4 message:

"Hi Bo,
Sorry to hear about this. The midrange driver exchange is straight forward.
You will need to remove the trim ring by gently pulling outward at a 1/8th of at a time going around the outer circumference until it is removed.
Remove the 4 mounting screws and disconnect the wires.
The Fastons connectors are different sizes so the connection will be correct.
You can always take a picture with your phone before you disconnect them to be safe.
Was an order placed for the new driver?
If not, send me your address, telephone number and serial number and we will send a replacement."

tiger4

removed

VR3

Huh, definitely looks assembled backwards.. Weird

Clipdat

How'd that pass QA?

tiger4

QA, at least in my world, is usually an audit, not 100%. You would think it would be caught at driver QA or final QA. Missing both seems like a pretty low probability.

However, if one of the engineers in Baltimore tells me the inverted dust cap doesn't make a difference in performance, I would keep the speaker.

txcoastal1

It likely doesn’t effect performance, but it will effect resale value

VR3

Mass production products are usually inspected like 1 out of 20, as an example. They don't test each one but rather a random sample of a batch.

Emlyn

The dust caps on the turbine cone woofers on my speakers aren’t a perfectly smooth design. They come to a slight peak in the middle. It looks like on the photo above that the machine operator didn’t place the driver correctly for assembly as the peak is off centered and half of the material around the dust cap didn’t get tucked into the cone material properly. It’s possible the driver isn’t properly air sealed but how do the speakers sound together?

tiger4

Pre-Audyssey REW (a little hot) windowed on the midrange driver pass band. FR has the inverted dust cap. The dip at 764 Hz is positioning (based on other REW runs). Looks O.K. to me. I was going to compare close-miked, but didn't have time. I must say I love the R700s so far (3 days).

Kex

How is that even a question? Of course it should be replaced! 😱

Nobody should accept anything as sloppy as that if it was bought new from a reputable retailer. It just encourages bad behavior and inadequate QC.

The effect on SQ might be minimal, but the dome is actually there for a reason. In theory at least, that dome will not disperse the sound correctly.

Aesthetically, it’s also a disaster.

@CarlJacobson_POLK

tiger4

So, SU sent me a new speaker.......driver. I guess I am supposed to do the repair myself? No instructions enclosed so I have no idea how to pop off the trim ring or if there are any other things to pay attention to.

I am actually not opposed to this solution because it prevents me from having to package and ship the entire speaker, but instructions would be nice. Also, is it still under warranty if I do the repair?

Kex

On an $1,100 speaker, I wouldn’t be terribly keen to just have a go without instructions, but if you have those plastic pry tools that are used for computer repairs, perhaps you could see if the round outside bezel comes off easily to reveal retaining screws for the driver? 🤔

Can you tell by looking at the new driver how the bezel might be attached to it?

Otherwise, contact customer service and ask them for directions on how to proceed.

Kex

P.S. If you purchased these from somewhere like Crutchfield, they may also offer assistance on how to proceed.

tiger4

Thanks, Kex. I think you are correct about the plastic pry tool working. I am planning on calling CS for instructions.

Emlyn

I understand from prior threads that the Reserve series trim rings are held on by either an adhesive or pegs. The rings can be pried off with some patience and care not to damage the cabinet finish. The drivers themselves are held in with a few wood screws.

The selling dealer may also be able to offer advice.

VR3

The rings removed like a grill

tiger4

Thanks folks. So, pins on the ring and sockets in the cabinet? Like the reverse of my various Monitors?

VR3

Correct

SeleniumFalcon

Send an email message to Kim.Jasper@masimo.com along with a photo of the driver. He'll take care of it.

tiger4

Again, thanks all.

Kex

SeleniumFalcon wrote: »

Send an email message to Kim.Jasper@masima.com along with a photo of the driver. He'll take care of it.

@SeleniumFalcon: masima.com or masimo.com? Just checking. 😬

Thanks Ken!

tiger4

FWIW, I assumed Masimo.

SeleniumFalcon

Masimo, sorry, that always throws me.

Emlyn

I was curious so I just removed the trim ring on my R200s. The ring is held in by six pegs. As VR3 described the fastener is like an old school speaker grille. No adhesive on the ring for the midwoofers. I put four pieces of masking tape on the cabinet at the corners of the ring to avoid marring the cabinet, put a fingernail into the small gap between the tape and the ring at one spot to make the gap a tiny bit bigger, inserted a corner of a thin bladed flexible drywall joint knife at the gap, and pried up a bit. There is no lip on these trim rings so no need to torque anything into the gaps to try and get under one. Repeat the same thing for another corner and it’ll provide enough lift to go around the ring with fingernails to pop the ring off. They lift off quite easily and go back on without any sign of being messed with that way.

Keep in mind that there are two spots on each trim ring on narrow baffle speakers like the R200s that are indented because the cabinet edges are rounded. I don't think that's an issue with the R700s but it just makes sense to put the rings back the way they were originally placed. If they're not placed back the same way on the R200s the ring won't fit flush to the cabinet where it's rounded.

VR3

I removed mine by using a paint can opener on the surround edge

txcoastal1

Put a couple layers of painters tape at each pry point of the speaker surface

tiger4

Once again, thanks to all for your help. Especially @SeleniumFalcon and Kim Jasper.

I just finished the swap. It took about seven minutes. I actually used a small nylon auto panel pry tool and went in from the ID. I could get between the trim ring and the basket without disturbing the surround.

@Emlyn The front of the R700 is a little wider than the R200, so the trim ring is entirely on a flat surface.

txcoastal1

Glad things went well, and we appreciate the update. Stick around and let us know what you think about your new R700's

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