JLsounds I2S over USB v.III Module

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SCompRacer
SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
edited March 2023 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I just received this JLsounds I2SoverUSB vIII module today. € 75.00 or ~$110 shipped. It uses the XMOS XU208 processor. Going to try it in my retired Twisted Pear BIII 9038 Pro DAC.

The I2SoverUSB module sports USB isolation and reclocking. NDK NZ2520SDA Ultra Low Phase Noise oscillators are used. Up to 768kHz PCM and Native DSD256. DSD512 supported on Linux and Windows using Thesycon audio driver. I have Roon so wondering what it will allow. My Sonore Audiobyte USB to I2S module has a 384kHz max rate and Roon only allows Native DSD128 though the Audiobyte is rated up to DSD512.

I'm fumbling through the instructions now. As delivered, USB side powered via cable, 5V PS will power isolation and reclock side.

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Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,533
    edited March 2023
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    @SCompRacer your wiring it always to neat and tidy.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
    edited March 2023
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    Thanks Dan!

    The JLsounds I2S over USB VIII can be configured in multiple ways. SPDIF output, use external clocks, by using jumpers under and on top of board. You can cut a trace and power USB side with a second external PS to maintain galvanic isolation.

    I used a two terminal keyed connector header for VDD and GND under the board, pins 17 & 19. I filled the remaining holes with double row header pins, trimming 17 and 19 out. 11 is BCLK, 13 is DATA and 15 are LR_CLK. 12, 14 and 16 are grounds. Also installed H5 header. For the ESS9038 Pro, I need to Jumper J1 on the H5 header. It appears I won't have to use any of the 0R 0805 resistors to jump under the board.

    Since I already had U.FL coax in place from previous USB to I2S modules, I wanted to keep them. I dug around until I found this header pin to U.FL converter. IIRC I got it from Ian of Canada. I had to turn the header connector 180 degrees to properly match center pin and ground. That meant installing another three U.FL connectors on it. Fortunately, I have a USB scope that helps my old eyes get it right.

    This diagram shows the USB and isolated layout of the board.

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    The header to U.FL converter. That little tool is for removing U.FL cables. Using the tool versus other methods to remove provides longer life for the U.FL cable connectors.

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    This USB to I2S module is shorter so I had to use a one-inch longer (four inchers) U.FL cables. Sadly they are mis-matched now.

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    And it works, Roon upsampling DSD64 to DSD512. Sounds great!

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    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,450
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    Nice, Rich. Man, that header's small. And you added three more connectors to it? You talking USB microscope for the soldererizing?

    What do you do for connections like that? Tin the pads, and then heat the connector in, or is there still room to get in to reflow the solder when placing the connectors?

    Do you and Ern take turns wrenching on this thing, and then taking it apart and throwing it in a box in challenge to the other?
    I disabled signatures.
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
    edited March 2023
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    Yeah, U.FL are tiny! They are great for I2S signal/clock connections due to shielding. Easy to remove as opposed to soldering/desoldering twisted pair wires. IIRC Hirose rates the cables at thirty removal/reinstalls if you use the tool to pull them straight off.

    To install, I tin one ground pad on board. Using tweezers, I carefully position and heat pushing connector flat onto board. Then move to opposite GND, then center pin, then hit first attachment GND again. It's easy to get solder where you don't want it, and that has happened to me. Like on side of connector. I attach a cable and perform continuity test to make sure center pin and GND are not shorted. The center pin has only one attaching leg so one must position it on board properly.

    To remove U.FL connectors, best to use a U-shaped solder tip to hear both grounds, then lift and desolder center pin tab. You can pull a trace off board if you force them off with no heat.

    No competition, LOL. Years ago I was forced into SMD with Arduino shields for I2C DAC control. I do have a hot air station for chips, but every now and then solder bridges across tightly spaced legs of chips. I just hit those solder bridges with a vacuum desolder gun.

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    U4 is a challenge!

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    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *