Vintage Polk m5jr tweeter loose connection

b84gthutvoj5.jpeg

Hello folks, I have a pair of mj5r tweeters one works perfectly and the other seems to have a weak connection point. When testing, if I wiggle around and touch the terminals in the perfect spot I get a solid connection. My question is if this is a weak solder joint near the terminals and could it be a straight forward fix? I can reheat those joints but unsure about the black “goop” that’s on top. Any suggestions appreciated

Comments

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    The terminal on the left's lead looks like it could be shorting within the channel going to coil.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • bazwt59ep4gs.jpeg

    I think I’ve narrowed it down to the positive terminal. if I get some of the strands of speaker wire right inside that tiny hole it makes a perfect connection. Just need to figure out how to restore that positive pin.. can I reheat the solder joint right through the black adhesive stuff or will that make a mess/make things worse
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    If its not a shorted lead in the channel, then it could be the crimped connection there between the terminal tabs and the solder cup that extends to the front side. Just flow some fresh solder into that connection on the backside there.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • I fixed the tweeter and now I have an issue with the crossover, I am not getting any sound to the tweeter from the crossover. I know you’re thinking the issue was the crossover all along but it was actually both. Very confusing as when I bought the speakers a week ago they originally had aftermarket tweeters that were both working. Capacitors inside look perfect would love to avoid recapping them
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,535
    Did you think you bought Peerless tweeters?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Did you think you bought Peerless tweeters?

    What? I’m not sure how your question is relevant. I bought the speakers for a song and yes I knew the tweeters were aftermarket. Now I am putting polk tweeters back in them
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,535
    My question is about the tweeters you bought to replace what you state were aftermarket. How did you arrive at your decision to purchase the ones you did? Did you believe them to be the Peerless tweeter that Polk used back then?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    My question is about the tweeters you bought to replace what you state were aftermarket. How did you arrive at your decision to purchase the ones you did? Did you believe them to be the Peerless tweeter that Polk used back then?

    I bought them because they were cheap and said polk and were rectangular lol. I am flipping the speakers so I am not overly concerned about who manufactured the tweeters.

    Update: I had the tweeter working, screw them in to the cabinet to test with crossover. No sound.. Took tweeter out now not working again. There’s something loosie goosie about it. I am going to take the previous advice to flow some solder in to the “cup” and hopefully that brings them back to life. Then I need to sort out the dang crossover

  • I believe the 5jr came out in 1984 and had the SL1000 tweeter then, which is what you have. Check the dates on your MW drivers and your crossovers.

    In 1985 the 5jr had the SL2000 tweeter.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,535
    F1nut wrote: »
    My question is about the tweeters you bought to replace what you state were aftermarket. How did you arrive at your decision to purchase the ones you did? Did you believe them to be the Peerless tweeter that Polk used back then?

    I bought them because they were cheap and said polk and were rectangular lol. I am flipping the speakers so I am not overly concerned about who manufactured the tweeters.

    Your lack of integrity is noted. Listed.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    My question is about the tweeters you bought to replace what you state were aftermarket. How did you arrive at your decision to purchase the ones you did? Did you believe them to be the Peerless tweeter that Polk used back then?

    I bought them because they were cheap and said polk and were rectangular lol. I am flipping the speakers so I am not overly concerned about who manufactured the tweeters.

    Update: I had the tweeter working, screw them in to the cabinet to test with crossover. No sound.. Took tweeter out now not working again. There’s something loosie goosie about it. I am going to take the previous advice to flow some solder in to the “cup” and hopefully that brings them back to life. Then I need to sort out the dang crossover

    Those ones you bought are the SL1000, the first tweeter Polk manufactured. They had to come up with something anyway because Peerless stopped making the KO10DT soft dome tweeter sometime in 1983. The SL1000 was the warranty replacement for the Peerless and also went into new models at some point around then.

    Check the fuse and clean the fuseholder and the fuse if you have one.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,281
    F1nut wrote: »
    My question is about the tweeters you bought to replace what you state were aftermarket. How did you arrive at your decision to purchase the ones you did? Did you believe them to be the Peerless tweeter that Polk used back then?

    I bought them because they were cheap and said polk and were rectangular lol. I am flipping the speakers so I am not overly concerned about who manufactured the tweeters.

    Update: I had the tweeter working, screw them in to the cabinet to test with crossover. No sound.. Took tweeter out now not working again. There’s something loosie goosie about it. I am going to take the previous advice to flow some solder in to the “cup” and hopefully that brings them back to life. Then I need to sort out the dang crossover

    Note to self...ignore this seller as he flips junk for junk for a living

    TY
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • txcoastal1 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    My question is about the tweeters you bought to replace what you state were aftermarket. How did you arrive at your decision to purchase the ones you did? Did you believe them to be the Peerless tweeter that Polk used back then?

    I bought them because they were cheap and said polk and were rectangular lol. I am flipping the speakers so I am not overly concerned about who manufactured the tweeters.

    Update: I had the tweeter working, screw them in to the cabinet to test with crossover. No sound.. Took tweeter out now not working again. There’s something loosie goosie about it. I am going to take the previous advice to flow some solder in to the “cup” and hopefully that brings them back to life. Then I need to sort out the dang crossover

    Note to self...ignore this seller as he flips junk for junk for a living

    TY

    Bunch of uptight **** on here what’s up with that? Saving polks from the dump is flipping junk for a living? Wow…….. get a life.. you and the other dunce

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Another satisfied customer... Maybe he'll leave some high marks on the exit survey... :#
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • I saw tweets like that on ebay in the past year.

    I wondered what the story was about them. I thought they were kind of an unofficial s1000/Peerless-proxy. Didn't they do a sl2000-like dome in a Peerless-style plate as the early SL1000, guys?

    Anyway.

    I think I understand better now, @thomasridout.

    - You bought the speakers to flip.
    - They had non-Polk tweeters in them.
    - You bought the ones pictured to put in because they were the right shape and said 'Polk' on them.
    - One didn't work right.
    - Fixed it. Now you realize there's either a fuse or crossover issue.

    I gotcha.

    I might've done the same thing at one point in my life- bought something that's probably a replica- like:

    https://www.simplyspeakers.com/replacement-speaker-peerless-dome-tweeter-t-k010dt.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAorKfBhC0ARIsAHDzsltv58qa8Nz9HqhvW9WepNiey9SDKABLo8muHebv0iqIMPL5E8xizB0aAhiQEALw_wcB

    The 5jr+ was my intro to Polk. Mine had the SL2000 tweeter, which I learned to dislike when I got better equipment. I thought they only had that and the SL2500, stock.

    Anyway! Not sure if that tweeter will mesh well with the crossover in that model...

    It'll probably sound just fine to most people, because they won't know any different. But someone who listens to them to-listen-to-them will probably be able to go 'I dunno... is something off?'.

    If you want to flip them, w/o putting the right tweeters in them, and if the crossovers need work, you might do better parting them out (including those new-not-Polk tweeters).

    I sold my 5jr+ to a co-worker for $120 8 years ago. I see ones with the better tweeter locally for $75 to $100.


    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    edited February 2023
    Except he said 5jr, not 5jr+. I checked out of curiosity and Audio Oct. 1984 is the first annual equipment guide to show the 5jr. Price is shown as $249.90/pr. Verified that it is with the SL1000 too (found it last night but will have to find again)

    w4lhxmxnmrei.jpg

    1983 equip. guide. No 5jr.

    msst000od6xm.jpg

    The 5jr+, which is the one with the passive radiator instead of the port, came out in 1987

    bpthrt9sa6ge.jpg






    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Ahhhh.

    I looked for a 5jr with it, but only saw 5's.

    Good call.

    Hell, that may sound better than the SL1000. I'd bet on it, if the original sounded like the SL2000 at all =P
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I've owned 4 sets of 5Jr's and all of them had SL1000 tweeters. The tweeters are not smooth at all.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.