Monitor 5 tweeter swap

old_polkshome
old_polkshome Posts: 5
in Vintage Speakers
I've read that the old SL2000 gets harsh with age. I've started to notice my tweeters being a bit bright on some songs, whereas it never used to. So, I'm considering swapping with the RD-0194. Do I have to upgrade the Xovers too, or can I (for now) just do a drop in switch. I absolutely LOVE these speakers, and want to hang onto them for as long as possible. (There's a story behind them with tons of sentimental value).
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Best Answers

  • JayMX
    JayMX Posts: 446
    Answer ✓
    RD0-194 will drop in with no other physical changes required. However, eliminating the polyswitches, upgrading resistors and caps in the xovers will wake them up like you won’t believe. The caps chosen will determine the cost... Many other great mods can be done without too much expense and yield great results. I’ve reworked many pairs and have never regretted doing any of the upgrades. Best of luck in your journey. 🤘🏻

    Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩
    Pairs that have passed through: Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (4x pair), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10b (5x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, RTA12c (194's), SDA CRS, SDA 2 (2x pair), SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2 (2x pair), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s) (2x pair)...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    Answer ✓
    .
    old_polkshome wrote: »
    I've never done any work to X-overs. What are polyswitches? Which resistors, which capacitors? I assume it's a matter of resoldering and resoldering in the new?

    First, welcome to the forum.

    Second, paid no attention to any of the whacked out musings of the garden guy.

    So, a polyswitch is a thermal reset device, a fuse of sorts. It can be removed and replaced with a .5 ohm 10 or 12 watt resistor. The standard crossover upgrade procedure replaces all resistors and capacitors with ones of higher quality.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    Answer ✓
    old_polkshome wrote: »
    Thanks folks. I'm going to start with the upgrade to tweeters. Don't know if I'm ready to tackle the X-over mod just yet. I don't want to risk these gems. I saw somewhere that Polk doesn't make the RDO194 anymore, but a Midwest speaker looks like they still have some. Are these going to be hard for me to get?

    Polk has them, but you need to use the correct part number, RD0194-1. If you mention you're a forum member you should get a discount.

    Your caps are way past their useful lifespan and should be replaced. As for the resistors, the stock ones are nothing special, so easily bettered. Vishay Mills are a good choice.

    DHS Speaker Service can do the crossovers for you. He's a member here.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 708
    Answer ✓
    If you decide to experiment, there's a lot of info in the forum.

    I totally respect painting within the lines. You'll be *really* pleased with new tweeters and crossover work. Restored cars are worth more than modded, if that is a consideration =)

    Just so you know, the crossover on the 5 isn't scary to upgrade. Here's what my 5B crossover looks like.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/0rpBG8Dw1Nw?feature=share

    If you have any urge to try it, it would be really hard to mess it up. And people here would help you through any questions. I was going to get less expensive parts to do mine (less expensive than fancy, but sooooo much better than stock). That would cost about $75 to do yourself. And that upgrade is so very, very worth it.
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    Answer ✓
    New tweeters and crossover parts will transform the speakers and take them to the next level. I did this years ago with zero regrets and I still grin when I listen to them.

    Replacing the tweeters is a good first step, but consider replacing the worn x-over parts. If you don't think you can tackle yourself as F1 noted DHS will do the work for you. Highly recommended, but go at your own pace.

    Enjoy

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Answers

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    edited October 2022
    You might consider doing the tl mod and going with RD0-198 too but that would take the A/B of strictly tweeters away from you. I have thoroughly enjoyed doing one mod at a time.

    More ambitious/difficult:

    Another option would be to get some billet aluminum plates from @xschop and some voice coils from eBay and do the mod to transform your SL2000s into silk domes that will probably sound even better than the RD0-194. You could bore the poles out and do the lambswool backwave absorption mod too that he has laid out somewhere here.

    I have not personally done this comparison but have faith in the ears of those who have.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • old_polkshome
    old_polkshome Posts: 5
    I've never done any work to X-overs. What are polyswitches? Which resistors, which capacitors? I assume it's a matter of resoldering and resoldering in the new?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,436
    edited October 2022
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Pay no attention to those who engage in slander but don't back it up with facts 😉

    Dude you seriously need to slow your roll. We have a guy here who just asked if a tweeter was a direct drop in, which it was. Sometimes you need to just let the OP get the answer he needed and move on. Not everything is a drag race which you seem to think it is. IF a poster states he cannot or has not soldered WHY do you insist on sending them down such a difficult path they could easily trip and fall and destroy something? You must understand NOT EVERYONE shares your "passon" OR skill levels.

    COME ON MAN .....

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • old_polkshome
    old_polkshome Posts: 5
    Thanks folks. I'm going to start with the upgrade to tweeters. Don't know if I'm ready to tackle the X-over mod just yet. I don't want to risk these gems. I saw somewhere that Polk doesn't make the RDO194 anymore, but a Midwest speaker looks like they still have some. Are these going to be hard for me to get?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • old_polkshome
    old_polkshome Posts: 5
    Wow, I'm grateful for all the responses. I had no idea the crossovers could be modded. ( Or had a lifespan) Now, I'm really curious about the upgrades. I'm calling Polk tomorrow. I'm listening to Natalie Merchant Ophelia right now and and still in awe with these speakers. But if the could be made even better, well then, I'm in! 😄 I'm driving them with vintage Denon PMA 520, with a Denon DCD 1560.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • old_polkshome
    old_polkshome Posts: 5
    F1nut wrote: »
    old_polkshome wrote: »
    Thanks folks. I'm going to start with the upgrade to tweeters. Don't know if I'm ready to tackle the X-over mod just yet. I don't want to risk these gems. I saw somewhere that Polk doesn't make the RDO194 anymore, but a Midwest speaker looks like they still have some. Are these going to be hard for me to get?

    Polk has them, but you need to use the correct part number, RD0194-1. If you mention you're a forum member you should get a discount.

    Your caps are way past their useful lifespan and should be replaced. As for the resistors, the stock ones are nothing special, so easily bettered. Vishay Mills are a good choice.

    DHS Speaker Service can do the crossovers for you. He's a member here.

    How do I contact DHS speaker service?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,281
    old_polkshome wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    old_polkshome wrote: »
    Thanks folks. I'm going to start with the upgrade to tweeters. Don't know if I'm ready to tackle the X-over mod just yet. I don't want to risk these gems. I saw somewhere that Polk doesn't make the RDO194 anymore, but a Midwest speaker looks like they still have some. Are these going to be hard for me to get?

    Polk has them, but you need to use the correct part number, RD0194-1. If you mention you're a forum member you should get a discount.

    Your caps are way past their useful lifespan and should be replaced. As for the resistors, the stock ones are nothing special, so easily bettered. Vishay Mills are a good choice.

    DHS Speaker Service can do the crossovers for you. He's a member here.

    How do I contact DHS speaker service?

    https://www.dhsspeakerservice.com/

    @westmassguy
    @old_polkshome
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter