Replacement cable for SME 3009 tone arm.

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Looking for recommendations. I have a SME 3009 improved tone arm on my SL1200 MK2 turntable and the factory cable is becoming an issue. The internal wiring in the arm was upgraded with Carla's tone arm wire, but the cable that connects the arm to the preamp is old and now defective. I checked the solder connections at both ends and they are fine, so the cable itself is broken somewhere. I'm not opposed to retrofitting the arm with RCA Jack's or the 5 pin circular connector if the stock SME connector is an issue. My other idea is to get Deulund wire and build my own cable assembly with that and some quality RCA plugs.
Sources: Technics SL1200MKII | SME3009 Tonearm | Monster Alpha 1 MC cartridge | Oppo UDP203 disk player | Nikko NT-790 analog tuner | Musical Fidelity Trivista 21 DAC | Preamp: Threshold SL-10 | Amplifier: Threshold Stasis 2 | Speakers: Snell Acoustics C/V | Kimber 12-TC bi wire speakers | Analysis plus Oval 1 preamp to amp | Wireworld Eclipse 7 DAC to Preamp | Wireworld eclipse digital IC Oppo to DAC | Audioquest Quartz tuner to preamp |

Comments

  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,399
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    If you have the Series 2 improved with non-detachable headshell, maybe look into a continuous tag to RCA connector wire upgrade? Some folks have been going the route of eliminating connections in the tonearm wiring.

    https://www.thevinylsource.co.uk/product-page/sme-3009-3012-rewire-kit-extra-low-capacitance-cable-full-litz-wiring
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 3,060
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    The 5-pin DIN plugs are tough to DIY (IME), so I'd vote for re-building with exiting connectors, or do as SCompRacer recommnded with one, long continuous run.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
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  • newbie308
    newbie308 Posts: 713
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    I have soldered 8mm plugs with 9 pins at work, so those din connectors look easy to me, but I do understand your suggestion of one continuous run. The arm has the removable head shell. Considering that the arm wiring was just done in the last year, I'm inclined to leave that bit alone.
    Sources: Technics SL1200MKII | SME3009 Tonearm | Monster Alpha 1 MC cartridge | Oppo UDP203 disk player | Nikko NT-790 analog tuner | Musical Fidelity Trivista 21 DAC | Preamp: Threshold SL-10 | Amplifier: Threshold Stasis 2 | Speakers: Snell Acoustics C/V | Kimber 12-TC bi wire speakers | Analysis plus Oval 1 preamp to amp | Wireworld Eclipse 7 DAC to Preamp | Wireworld eclipse digital IC Oppo to DAC | Audioquest Quartz tuner to preamp |
  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 3,060
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    Sounds like you'll have the proper equipment for the job, which is half the battle. Soldering tonearm wires to the little terminal connectors on a DIN plug is not so bad, but on the phono cable side, you have to make sure the gauge size is not too big. It gets really crowded, really quickly, when you start trying to solder a pair of typical coax cables to a little DIN plug. Honestly, I've only done that once, and if/when I do it again, I will be much more picky about the cable I use. Two small-gauge conductors in one jacket, with low capacitance specs, would be ideal.

    Looking forward to others' suggestions here, and how it goes for you!
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,399
    edited October 2022
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    I can understand not wanting to change the Cardas out, but I'd opt for a continuous run.

    My air bearing arms use S-Video connectors which are just slightly smaller than the 5 pin DIN. I used a really small coax (1/8" IIRC) from female S-Video in arm to RCA.

    I'm going to try the KAB SuperFlex Litz tonearm wire in place of the Litz currently in use. The KAB wire is as advertised, limp as a wet noodle, so it won't interfere with motion of arm.

    mcuiw57vth8h.jpg
    m2tc4hmv3i5m.jpg

    https://www.kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 3,060
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    KAB USA products are definitely legit
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
  • newbie308
    newbie308 Posts: 713
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    I did a little rummaging through my wire bin and found a 12 foot length of Mogami 2984 wire that I used to make a bunch of guitar cables for my son's band a few years ago. Figured I had nothing to lose but time, so I rebuilt the tonearm cable reusing the original RCAs and SME straight 5 pin connector. bg9uh9ha2f0r.jpg
    Sources: Technics SL1200MKII | SME3009 Tonearm | Monster Alpha 1 MC cartridge | Oppo UDP203 disk player | Nikko NT-790 analog tuner | Musical Fidelity Trivista 21 DAC | Preamp: Threshold SL-10 | Amplifier: Threshold Stasis 2 | Speakers: Snell Acoustics C/V | Kimber 12-TC bi wire speakers | Analysis plus Oval 1 preamp to amp | Wireworld Eclipse 7 DAC to Preamp | Wireworld eclipse digital IC Oppo to DAC | Audioquest Quartz tuner to preamp |
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,496
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    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.smetonearms.com/&ved=2ahUKEwj0v_TNgfD6AhVXmWoFHbQMD8wQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1S7Y4SDsAN-TZesux94-QC

    This is a link to smetonearms.com.
    They specialize in rebuilding SME tonearms and recommend direct wiring to the preamp.

    I have a 3012 I plan to send to them some day soon.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
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  • jmaudiophile
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    If you have the Series 2 improved with non-detachable headshell, maybe look into a continuous tag to RCA connector wire upgrade? Some folks have been going the route of eliminating connections in the tonearm wiring.

    https://www.thevinylsource.co.uk/product-page/sme-3009-3012-rewire-kit-extra-low-capacitance-cable-full-litz-wiring

    Yeah, I think this solution will work with both non-detachable as much as detachable head shell of the whole range of SME 3009 and 3012 series. In any case, you can check the manufacturer site. Good luck with your improvements!