Used Speaker Fun!
engie490
Posts: 433
I recently saw an ad on CL for a pair of KEF Reference 205/2 speakers for $2500. Seeing as they originally went for $13K and used ones go for north of $4K, they got my attention.
The catch was that one tweeter was dead. The owner couldn't find a replacement, so he sent the driver off to have a JBL tweeter grafted in. The result, while grotesque, seemed to work OK. Obviously, the point source selling point of Uni-Q drivers was gone.
I kept an eye on the ad and I figured I could pick them up and wait for a used Uni-Q B160 SP1447 (the correct driver) to pop up on the internet and then I would be in business.
Then the asking price dropped to $2K. I got in touch and arranged a demo. He had the speakers against the backwall and was using an EQ, but they sounded good. They were in good physical shape...apart from the desecration of the tweeter. So, I agreed to buy them. I had to get cash and needed a couple days to arrange for the pickup.
That night, while looking them up on the internet, I found that what he actually had were 205s not 205/2s. The "/2" series dispensed with the "hypertweeter" on top. Used values for the original versions dropped to about half "/2".
I got in touch with the seller and a lower price was agreed to. It seemed to be an honest mistake.
A couple of days later I showed up at his house with a wad of cash and took the KEFs home. One of the first things I noticed after getting them home was that the speakers didn't match. Oh, they looked nearly identical (except for the declared tweeter issue)...with an important difference at the bottom rear:
At the top, you can see the "Boundary Compensation Device". One speaker has 3 Low Frequency (LF) settings, while the other has an "A" and "B" setting creating 4 options. That one also has a High Frequency (HF) adjustment.
Turns out, KEF made a change to the setup in the original 205s without changing the model number and I ended up with one of each kind. Additionally, I found out that the original adjustment worked from 200 hz and down, while the later version used 120hz.
This difference is further reinforced by the serial numbers that are different (#s and even the sticker) and both end in "L". Turns out that there should be a "R" speaker for each of these and only God knows where they are.
I will tell you that I could not find any information on the settings for the A/B settings. I found a reference to an addendum that explained the settings, but I could not find the actual addendum anywhere. I finally reached out to KEF USA and Vinny (very responsive and helpful) sent me the settings. He also sent me some additional plugs for the A/B spekaer (since it can use up to 3 of them and I only had 1).
I was now able to figure out how to set both speakers to "flat" and I hoped this would solve that issue.
I still had to find an unmolested SP1447. Turns out a nice guy in Sweden had 2 of them. I figured, I would have an extra driver to sell (or keep as backup) and purchased them. I received them intact and he even included some rather good Swedish chocolate. Yum!
I pulled my modified SP1447 and found that the connections were soldered. Now, I can solder, just not very well and I didn't want to risk **** this up. I figured I would have to pay someone to do it properly.
But, I also noticed that there was a lot of wire added to the modified speaker.
I pulled the intact SP1447 and sure enough, it did not have all of the extra wire. Strangely though, it said "SP1515". WTF?!??!?!?!?!?
I guess I shouldn't have been surprised. I can't even find a reference to the SP1515 on the internet nor which speaker it's supposed to be used in. From the front, it looks identical to the SP1447 except for a protective mesh over the tweeter. My guess is this was used in the "/2" series speakers (based on pics I've seen) and someone blew the original SP1447 and used this to replace it.
The good news is that I have 2 correct drivers ready to put into these beasts.
One more little thing...someone broke off a banana plug in one of the binding posts. After some sweating and choice words, I was finally able to remove the offending piece of metal.
Hopefully, that's the last surprise from this deal...now to just haul these beasts to a tech.
The catch was that one tweeter was dead. The owner couldn't find a replacement, so he sent the driver off to have a JBL tweeter grafted in. The result, while grotesque, seemed to work OK. Obviously, the point source selling point of Uni-Q drivers was gone.
I kept an eye on the ad and I figured I could pick them up and wait for a used Uni-Q B160 SP1447 (the correct driver) to pop up on the internet and then I would be in business.
Then the asking price dropped to $2K. I got in touch and arranged a demo. He had the speakers against the backwall and was using an EQ, but they sounded good. They were in good physical shape...apart from the desecration of the tweeter. So, I agreed to buy them. I had to get cash and needed a couple days to arrange for the pickup.
That night, while looking them up on the internet, I found that what he actually had were 205s not 205/2s. The "/2" series dispensed with the "hypertweeter" on top. Used values for the original versions dropped to about half "/2".
I got in touch with the seller and a lower price was agreed to. It seemed to be an honest mistake.
A couple of days later I showed up at his house with a wad of cash and took the KEFs home. One of the first things I noticed after getting them home was that the speakers didn't match. Oh, they looked nearly identical (except for the declared tweeter issue)...with an important difference at the bottom rear:
At the top, you can see the "Boundary Compensation Device". One speaker has 3 Low Frequency (LF) settings, while the other has an "A" and "B" setting creating 4 options. That one also has a High Frequency (HF) adjustment.
Turns out, KEF made a change to the setup in the original 205s without changing the model number and I ended up with one of each kind. Additionally, I found out that the original adjustment worked from 200 hz and down, while the later version used 120hz.
This difference is further reinforced by the serial numbers that are different (#s and even the sticker) and both end in "L". Turns out that there should be a "R" speaker for each of these and only God knows where they are.
I will tell you that I could not find any information on the settings for the A/B settings. I found a reference to an addendum that explained the settings, but I could not find the actual addendum anywhere. I finally reached out to KEF USA and Vinny (very responsive and helpful) sent me the settings. He also sent me some additional plugs for the A/B spekaer (since it can use up to 3 of them and I only had 1).
I was now able to figure out how to set both speakers to "flat" and I hoped this would solve that issue.
I still had to find an unmolested SP1447. Turns out a nice guy in Sweden had 2 of them. I figured, I would have an extra driver to sell (or keep as backup) and purchased them. I received them intact and he even included some rather good Swedish chocolate. Yum!
I pulled my modified SP1447 and found that the connections were soldered. Now, I can solder, just not very well and I didn't want to risk **** this up. I figured I would have to pay someone to do it properly.
But, I also noticed that there was a lot of wire added to the modified speaker.
I pulled the intact SP1447 and sure enough, it did not have all of the extra wire. Strangely though, it said "SP1515". WTF?!??!?!?!?!?
I guess I shouldn't have been surprised. I can't even find a reference to the SP1515 on the internet nor which speaker it's supposed to be used in. From the front, it looks identical to the SP1447 except for a protective mesh over the tweeter. My guess is this was used in the "/2" series speakers (based on pics I've seen) and someone blew the original SP1447 and used this to replace it.
The good news is that I have 2 correct drivers ready to put into these beasts.
One more little thing...someone broke off a banana plug in one of the binding posts. After some sweating and choice words, I was finally able to remove the offending piece of metal.
Hopefully, that's the last surprise from this deal...now to just haul these beasts to a tech.
KEF 207s / Coda Continuum / SST Thoebe II / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
Comments
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Cool good luck on the revival2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Buying used speakers can be a challenge and alot of times, you hope, people just dont know!- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Would it be easier o find a close tweeter that fits, the adjust the crossover?2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
That’s the chance you take when you buy from polkfarmboy🤣🤣Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
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The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
nooshinjohn wrote: »
All in good fun.
I’m not sure anyone who was around during the pfb era could read “One more thing…someone broke off a banana plug in the binding post” and not think of polkfarmboy and his shenanigans.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Would it be easier o find a close tweeter that fits, the adjust the crossover?
I've already acquired a pair of the proper SP1447 UniQ drivers to replace the 2 nonstandard ones.
The 205's crossover is pretty extensive and I don't want to try to change it.
KEF 207s / Coda Continuum / SST Thoebe II / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts -
Most of that is for the adjustments I'm sure. Kef usually has simplistic crossovers- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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That’s the chance you take when you buy from polkfarmboy🤣🤣
Apparently, he changed his name to KEFarmboy!KEF 207s / Coda Continuum / SST Thoebe II / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts -
All in good fun.
I’m not sure anyone who was around during the pfb era could read “One more thing…someone broke off a banana plug in the binding post” and not think of polkfarmboy and his shenanigans.
I wish he was still around here posting! He was always good for a laugh.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
