Monitor 10 s have very low woofer volume

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atprn
atprn Posts: 4
in Vintage Speakers
Is a capacitor to blame for low woofer volume?
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,546
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    Usually the problem is related to either one or both of the 6.5" active drivers not working. The possible exception would be of someone has recently replaced one or both of the drivers and not maintained the correct connection polarity.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,040
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    Or wired the rear posts backward on one speaker.

    I did that once and the speakers had minimal bass output.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,686
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    Do the cones move freely with no scratching ? Do not force them if not.
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  • Jimbo18
    Jimbo18 Posts: 2,331
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    Leaky cabinet?
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  • atprn
    atprn Posts: 4
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    Speaker has never been worked on. The volume is barely audible. The tweeter appears to be fine.
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  • atprn
    atprn Posts: 4
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    pics of speaker
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  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,505
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Do the cones move freely with no scratching ? Do not force them if not.

    atprn ^^^^^ did you do this ?
    ..
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  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,505
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    Use 2 fingers at 9oclock & 3oclock & lightly push in on woofers (push in on woofers near dust cap dome area)....... Another way you can also push out on Passive Radiator & the woofers should come out with ease
    ..
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  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,505
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    Also you can test your cabinets to see if they are air tight. Push in (lightly) & HOLD IN the passive radiator & woofers will come out & they should stay out for 3-5 seconds
    ..
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
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    atprn wrote: »
    Speaker has never been worked on. The volume is barely audible. The tweeter appears to be fine.

    Sounds like there might be a problem powering the speakers to me. Have you tried a different amplifier, preamp, etc.?
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • atprn
    atprn Posts: 4
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    Tried swapping r and left speaker wires and same issues apply to only to the same speaker. Could a crossover capacitor be the issue?
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,215
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    What about ruling out the other things that people have suggested so far^^ ?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
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    atprn wrote: »
    Tried swapping r and left speaker wires and same issues apply to only to the same speaker. Could a crossover capacitor be the issue?

    You seem to be hung up on capacitors. If you really want to know the answer to that question, swap the crossovers between speakers. It's an easy job. If the problem goes with the crossover, upgrade the crossovers with new caps and resistors.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • Hansvelton
    Hansvelton Posts: 151
    edited March 2022
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    TennMan wrote: »
    atprn wrote: »
    Tried swapping r and left speaker wires and same issues apply to only to the same speaker. Could a crossover capacitor be the issue?

    You seem to be hung up on capacitors. If you really want to know the answer to that question, swap the crossovers between speakers. It's an easy job. If the problem goes with the crossover, upgrade the crossovers with new caps and resistors.

    A crossover cap *bad) in the woofer circuit usually would not make the volume very low.
    As the low pass cap in these, simply divert some of the upper range of the woofer around it.
    If anything it would allow more of the upper range INTO the woofer, and make it just worse sounding overall.

    Now a loose connection to the big inductor, WOULD create issues, but I think that would be obvious.

    I think pulling the woofers, but first checking for voice coil rub is in order, if they pass THAT test, then direct wire a signal to Each midwoofer and see if they work, effectively bypassing the crossover.
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