RTIA9 and A7 tweeters

morethanamark
morethanamark Posts: 1
in Wanted (WTB) Classifieds
Hi! I have had a set of RTI A9 and A7 speakers for 10 years or so, but haven't used them in recent years. I plugged them in and it seems like 1 of the A9 tweeters is shot and both of the A7 tweeters are shot. I think this is the problem, I am not 100% sure, but the highs seems awful in the two A7s and the 1 A9.

1. Are they easy to replace?

2. If I have two fxi a6's could I snag tweeters from them?

3. Does anyone have some I could buy?

Thank you for your help!!

Mark

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Comments

  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,834
    I checked with a friend at Polk and they have them in stock, part numbers:

    RTi A9 – Part # RD0697-2
    RTi A7 – Part # RD0696-2

    You can order from: 1-800-377-7655 and follow prompts to "parts department", they should just come away from the front baffle with simple tools.
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  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 8,124
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/196121/rtia9-and-rtia7-parts#latest

    These should work for you
    Home Theater
    Parasound Halo A 31 OnkyoTX-NR838 Sony XBR55X850B 55" 4K RtiA9 Fronts CsiA6 Center RtiA3 Rears FxiA6 Side Surrounds Dual Psw 111's Oppo 105D Signal Ultra Speaker Cables & IC's Signal Magic Power Cable Technics SL Q300 Panamax MR4300 Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables Audioquest Forest USB Cable

    2 Channel
    Adcom 555II Vincent SA-T1 Marantz SA 15S2 Denon DR-M11 Clearaudio Bluemotion SDA 2.3tl's (Z) edition MIT Terminator II Speaker Cables & IC's Adcom 545II Adcom Gtp-450 Marantz CD5004 Technics M245X SDA 2B's, SDA CRS+

    Stuff for the Head
    JD LABS C5 Headphone Amplifier, Sennheiser HD 598, Polk Audio Buckle, Polk Audio Hinge, Velodyne vPulse, Bose IE2, Sennheiser CX 200 Street II, Sennheiser MX 365

    Shower & Off the beaten path Rigs
    Polk Audio Boom Swimmer, Polk Audio Urchin B)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,651
    morethanamark wrote: »
    Hi! I have had a set of RTI A9 and A7 speakers for 10 years or so, but haven't used them in recent years. I plugged them in and it seems like 1 of the A9 tweeters is shot and both of the A7 tweeters are shot. I think this is the problem, I am not 100% sure, but the highs seems awful in the two A7s and the 1 A9.

    1. Are they easy to replace?

    2. If I have two fxi a6's could I snag tweeters from them?

    3. Does anyone have some I could buy?

    Thank you for your help!!

    Mark

    You should first figure out if the tweeters are actually bad and if so, exactly how they got that way.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,651
    SeleniumFalcon wrote: »
    I checked with a friend at Polk and they have them in stock, part numbers:

    RTi A9 – Part # RD0697-2
    RTi A7 – Part # RD0696-2

    You can order from: 1-800-377-7655 and follow prompts to "parts department", they should just come away from the front baffle with simple tools.

    Ken, various online sites say the RTi A7 part # is RD0696-1. Did Polk change something?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,834
    I think the "-2" is a revision indicator not a new part, Kim supplied the part numbers.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    My 2 cents: About 2010 I took inventory of the ‘A7 & ‘A1 drivers et al.

    Both used the RD0690-1. One had a “DPG21,” suffix whatever that means. As another posted the “-1, -2 is probably a batch designation of some kind for the bezel, meaningless for replacement purposes. They’re all the same tweeter. If you examine the RTi series you’ll see the same tweeter right down to the bezel.

    If you don’t mind doing a little surgery and saving some $*,PE sells a Peerless tweeter that black color aside looks just like the RD0690. IIRC someone used these in their B&W speakers; another for a Polk. Check the reviews and/or Q &A portion of the page.
    *$14 vs $65!

    https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-OC25SC65-04-1-Textile-Dome-Tweeter-264-1018?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7uRBhDRARIsAFqjulm5g2NnL0mfE65lQr7ua40-mmZT11yp4a1WEOjrEmbSYS1Zf35XTxwaAlJWEALw_wcB

    This one graphs flatter that the Peerless. I plan to replace all of mine w/these one day*…
    https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-ND25FN-4-1-Silk-Dome-Neodymium-Tweeter-Element-4-Ohm-275-053?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7uRBhDRARIsAFqjulkMOaZzwH8DFFi8QBex19nNxJ5lHUsSd2BA58Md_cZSzq1bxXgLJKcaAraZEALw_wcB
    *watching for a sale.

    Good fortune to you. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    edited March 2022
    morethanamark wrote: »

    1. Are they easy to replace?

    2. If I have two fxi a6s* could I snag tweeters* from them?

    Thank you for your help!!

    Mark
    Can’t see why not* - it’s the same tweeter! Should be a near no-brainer.

    Make certain** you have the right size Allen wrench for disassembly. Be very careful removing those screws - made of a soft metal that seems like aluminum though said to rust. Voice of experience** here - during reassembly ONLY hand tighten as the MDF strips very easily.
    **I believe Jesse will back me up on this

    Good fortune regardless of your course of action.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,572
    edited March 2022
    Nice work Tony ;)

    My only question, If they go the faceless route is it easy to mount the new tweeter into the Polk OEM faceplate ?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,651
    edited March 2022
    The stock screws are chrome plated steel with aggressive sheet rock type screw threads.

    I replaced every stock screw including the port screws by installing hurricane nuts and stainless steel cap screws. A job I will never do again and highly suggest no one attempt as getting to some of the holes from the inside is next to impossible. In fact, it's giving me a headache just talking about it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,651
    SeleniumFalcon wrote: »
    I think the "-2" is a revision indicator not a new part, Kim supplied the part numbers.

    Ok, thank you!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    F1nut wrote: »
    I replaced every stock screw including the port screws by installing hurricane nuts and stainless steel cap screws.
    I hope you’re feeling’ better today.

    I followed your lead on this though limited the upgrade to mids, woofers, and 1 or 2 other stripped screw holes. I found the work not that tough. I filed the H-nut flange to clear the driver basket rims. Used black hex machine screws in place of the bright silver originals.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,651
    Try doing the ports and you'll understand.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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