SDA Magnet Glue...So Many Different Answers...Where Are We Now??
CNap
Posts: 8
So finally ready to glue the magnets on my new to me SDA1C Studios. Just did a little revisit on the product to use, and now I'm lost in the wormhole of differing opinions. It seems the "OLD" way was to use JB Weld, a 2 part epoxy mixed and applied with a knife. And the "NEW" way is to use a Polyurethane based construction adhesive (aka PL Plus) which is easier to apply. There is also major debate on applying a full bead around both the top and bottom side of the magnets vs. doing a 4 point sectional application on each area. Then...there's talk of adding a thread seal prior to the exterior glue (locktite green), which some strongly argue as being useless. So what is it folks, what is the product we are using and what are the methods we are doing that is simple and effective nowadays?
Polk Speakers In My Arsenal:
-SRS SDA 1.2 Walnut w/RDO 194 Tweeters
-SDA1 C Studio Black
-RTi12 Cherry
-RTiA7 Cherry
-RTiA1 Black
-FXiA4 Black
-PSW404 Subwoofers (2) Black
-SRS SDA 1.2 Walnut w/RDO 194 Tweeters
-SDA1 C Studio Black
-RTi12 Cherry
-RTiA7 Cherry
-RTiA1 Black
-FXiA4 Black
-PSW404 Subwoofers (2) Black
Answers
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Welcome. I think there's enough info/opinions out there for one to make one's own mind up. You won't get the consensus you are looking for because it doesn't exist, regarding what might be the *ultimate*. Lots of methods are mostly adequate. I think most will agree, with Lawdogg's impact shock test failure, to not use regular old Power Grab construction adhesive. That's probably the only consensus you will get.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
I will add this, because it relates to my own experience.......how certain are you that your drivers magnet assy has not shifted *a little bit* from when they left the Polk factory? I have one that I glued up with Gorilla Max Strength Clear that it turned out was borderline rubbing and I thought I had fixed that with a spider crack repair and by rotating the driver. Well it came back and now I have to try to remove the stuff. I have long since retired the drivers and have replacements that are great, but that is not going to be fun. So, what I'm saying is that if I had gone with the Green wicking Loctite and then JB-Weld it might be nigh onto impossible to remove, without perhaps heating it with a torch or something and even then I might end up damaging the magnet.
So make sure they are pristinely centered before you do any permanent glue ups. This stuff I used is tenacious though and might be a nightmare as it is.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Which ever you use do the entire circumference of the magnet top and bottom. Do the top or bottom one day then do the other the next day.
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Gardenstater wrote: »Welcome. I think there's enough info/opinions out there for one to make one's own mind up. You won't get the consensus you are looking for because it doesn't exist, regarding what might be the *ultimate*. Lots of methods are mostly adequate. I think most will agree, with Lawdogg's impact shock test failure, to not use regular old Power Grab construction adhesive. That's probably the only consensus you will get.
Power grab is fine. Just don't drop your speakers out a 2nd floor window. If you do plan on it, use Power grab Ultimate.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Yeah...ummm....NO!there's talk of adding a thread seal prior to the exterior glue
JB Weld is tried and true.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What are thoughts on superglue style adhesives. Like JB Weld SuperWeld Extreme or Gorilla's HD Super Glue?Polk Speakers In My Arsenal:
-SRS SDA 1.2 Walnut w/RDO 194 Tweeters
-SDA1 C Studio Black
-RTi12 Cherry
-RTiA7 Cherry
-RTiA1 Black
-FXiA4 Black
-PSW404 Subwoofers (2) Black -
What are thoughts on superglue style adhesives. Like JB Weld SuperWeld Extreme or Gorilla's HD Super Glue?
In the past I tried this GO2 by Loctite. It was impressive at first. I let the driver sit for several months as it was an extra spare. Several months later I could peel it off, it failed. I'm glad I never did a bunch of drivers. I followed all directions to a T. Cleaned the area with 91% alcohol used a Q-tip to barely moisten the area, I do not recommend.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2465627#Comment_2465627
