I need help with updating the crossover in my Polk model 10 speakers.

2

Answers

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    Use original Windex sprayed onto a soft, lint free cotton cloth. Wipe in a circular motion.

    The original grill cloth should be stapled on, so.....
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • I must have been thinking of a different speaker grill. I will give the winded a try.
  • 61wbj40mi77z.jpg
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    I have made some progress, but it has been slow because of my lack of free time.

    I went with a less expensive binding post and kept the fuse in the circuit. I am replacing the fuse holder, fuse, and the wiring going to the fuse. I looked up the binding posts that were recommended and agonized for a couple of days on which ones to go with. In the end, I went with the cheaper ones.

    I kept the fuse because I like to play it safe, and I also have two young boys at home that may take an interest in my stereo (I hope). I also am using vintage Sansui amplifiers for my power.

  • The wires attach on the top of the fuse block.
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 284
    edited January 2022
    Interested in the standoff kit. What size did you buy? I see a couple of sizes listed on Amazon. Anyone have opinions on brass vs nylon for these??
  • tomthomas20
    tomthomas20 Posts: 24
    edited January 2022
    I bought the LitOrange 320PCS 3M. It seems to be the right size.

    https://amazon.com/dp/B07D7828LC?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title&th=1
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    edited February 2022
    Yeah I did mention above that I didn't recommend (on 2nd thought) messing with the value of the resistor in the contour network and that a 0.2 Ohm resistor was the way to go and gave him a link to it. We agree.

    PS: But clearly he has decided to go with a new fuseblock with fresh wiring.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • tomthomas20
    tomthomas20 Posts: 24
    edited February 2022
    I just wanted to touch base and give everyone an update on my progress so far.

    - I changed my mind (again) about keeping the fuse, and I have ordered a 0.2 ohm resistor to replace it.
    - The hurricane nuts are installed.
    - The crossover is almost complete. I just need the resistor and to connect the coil.
    - I cleaned the speaker cones with Windex.
    - The wood veneer is done and finished with Odie's Oil and Howard Feed-N-Wax.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    The Odie's Oil is a new one on me. The MSDS sheet notes it as, "Lubricating oil; Drying oil; Natural waxes; Essential oil". That translates to mineral oil, Japan drier, cheap wax and some scent.

    The Howard's MSDS sheet notes it as mostly petroleum distillates and paraffin wax. Read, mineral spirits and dirt cheap worthless wax.

    Both companies are laughing all the way to the bank.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    edited February 2022
    I can't argue with the visual results of that veneer and the finish! Beautiful.

    Try to keep the solder to a minimum when doing this work. I like the standoffs and the cleanness of it all, aside from that. Always an acceptable option to solder in the resistors on the clad side of the board as well.

    I would definitely put in 4 more hurricane nuts on the passive at this point while you are at it. Better coupling to the baffle and probably helps stiffen the baffle a bit more. I would've favored some glued in Xschop semi-rings for the MW's but they may not even be available right now....

    What did you use for your Tweeter and MW connection wires?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    edited February 2022
    That is 3N OFC at least. You can always upgrade to something like Neotech UPOCC or Cardas Litz sometime in the future. I hope you are using gold plated fastons at the driver ends to make future upgrades easier, both wiring and other types of upgrades.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • tomthomas20
    tomthomas20 Posts: 24
    edited February 2022
    I used Odie's oil because it's easy to apply, I can apply it in my house without having a bad smell (too cold in the garage), the wood has a more natural look after it is applied then some other finishes (not plastic/vinyl) and it will be durable. Time will tell if I like it 5 years from now, but for now I am happy with it.

    What kind of finish would you recommend?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    edited February 2022
    Wax and/or mineral oil not a finish and offers next to nothing as protection goes. Some apply wax over a finish although it doesn't do much. If one desires to wax over a finish then Renaissance wax is the only product I will ever recommend.

    Easy to apply for the amateur, wiping poly. Two or three coats will do it. It will bring out the beauty of the wood better, it will offer much greater protection and will not look like plastic.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Actually my bad. 3N is ETP (electrolytic tough pitch copper). This is the standard electrical grade. 3N5 is the next grade up which is OFC and 4N is a better grade of OFC called OFHC. I think 16awg is fine for the tweeter but I would've used at least 14awg for the MW's.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • I did not know the dacron fill was out of place, thank you for the tip.
  • https://youtube.com/watch?v=VseGWLW3B5A&feature=share

    I found this review of Odie’s Oil that talks about its strengths and weaknesses.

    Hopefully I posted the link correctly.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    You posted it correctly, thanks. The product is still mineral oil, Japan drier, cheap wax and some scent.

    Wait two weeks after application before use.....LOL, that's insane.

    One other comment. It doesn't matter how much you sand or to what grit, while the wood fibers become smoother, the pores aren't getting any smaller.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • With a film finish, it is better to stop going up in grit at about 180 so the finish can adhere better. After the finish is applied, the wood will feel smooth because you are not touching the wood. You are touching the finish.
    Odie's Oil needs a smoother surface to start with because after it is applied you will still feel the actual surface of the wood.
    In the end, I like the Odie's. Has a lot more pros than cons for me personally. Once the weather warms up and I can get in my garage, I'll probably use something else but for now, Odie's works.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    With a film finish, it is better to stop going up in grit at about 180 so the finish can adhere better.
    What book or site did you get that from because that is flat out BS.
    After the finish is applied, the wood will feel smooth because you are not touching the wood. You are touching the finish.
    Not quite. If you don't finish the clear coat it will not be smooth.


    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    I do this for living.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Malbec
    Malbec Posts: 552
    F1nut wrote: »
    With a film finish, it is better to stop going up in grit at about 180 so the finish can adhere better.
    What book or site did you get that from because that is flat out BS.

    The general opinion to stop at 120-180 grit is, as you're white-wood sanding, you can begin to burnish the wood when you go too fine.
    I sand until I can no longer see sanding marks in the wood. I use a low angle light source to check between grits.
  • Malbec
    Malbec Posts: 552
    Nice job matching the waterfall by the way. :)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    Malbec wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    With a film finish, it is better to stop going up in grit at about 180 so the finish can adhere better.
    What book or site did you get that from because that is flat out BS.

    The general opinion to stop at 120-180 grit is, as you're white-wood sanding, you can begin to burnish the wood when you go too fine.

    There's no logic in that. Clear coats are applied such things as polished brass, which is smoother than wood. There is no adhesion issues.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk