Monitor 11 foam question.

Just picked up a pair of Polk Monitor 11. There are no labels whatsoever anywhere, but the crossover matches the monitor 11 schematic, and these have the peerless tweet and a 12" pr, just like in all the pics on here, so it looks and quacks like that duck....

There is a layer of greyish foam sitting horizontal, like new shape, in each cab behind one mid driver. The speakers are obviously handed due to the foam orientation. Should the foam sides be next to each other when set up as a pair, or on the far side of each other?

I can see myself becoming attached to these. 100 percent original, and sound quite nice.

Comments

  • I may have answered my own question. Tried both possibilities, and the foamed half of each speakers to the inside when paired next to each other. Sound pretty darn good.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,636
    Great speaker. I had some 6-7 years ago & loved em. They replaced my Monitor 10. IIRC the Monitor 11 speakers are also labeled R & L for placement. I can't remember why that is ??? All my notes are on computer my daughter took when she moved out on her own. Enjoy your new speakers
    ..
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,539
    woodsman wrote: »
    I may have answered my own question. Tried both possibilities, and the foamed half of each speakers to the inside when paired next to each other. Sound pretty darn good.

    That is correct.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bikerboy
    bikerboy Posts: 1,211
    I have a pair of those. Any idea what caps are need to update them. I haven't taken them apart yet. They do sound good.
    Main system: Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 w/ Pioneer 42" plazma-> Polk LSiM 703 w/Tivo, Marantz tuner, BRPTT: Nothingham Spacedeck-> Pioneer PL L1000 linear arm-> Soundsmith DL 103R-> SUT->Bottlehead ErosDigital: I3 PC w/ Jriver playing flac -> Sonore Ultrarendu -> Twisted Pair Audio ESS 9028 w/ Mercury IVY Vinyl rips: ESI Juli@24/192-> i3 PC server
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,539
    The schematic is posted here.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,539
    Jeff, if you need me to provide a list just say so.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • It is a little frustrating when some threads go unfinished with results of upgrades, mods etc. I always wonder; how did it turn out, what was the long term conclusion? So, I will try to be more of a completionist......

    I have had perhaps 50 pair of speakers in the last 10 years rotate through my listening room, and when I bought these rta 11's, I did it on a whim. Never heard any Polks, bought them sight unseen, sound unheard, i just had a feeling that they were what I was looking for. Right away, my initial impression was "wow". Mind you, this impression is to my ears, in my room with my equipment, your results will of course vary.

    I am ready to invest in upgrades and restore degraded components and take advantage of better components that currently exist, i.e. capacitors. After reading many threads on this forum and others, I started my revisions / mods / restorations.

    The consensus here gravitates to Clarity, however my wallet gravitated somewhere else. Besides, if everyone did the same thing, well, that's pretty damn boring. So, I ordered parts from the recommendation of my gut, and from much extrapolated data.

    Baby steps. I did the right speaker first. Relaced the cast resistors with the mills. Replaced the 4.9uf with Jantzen standard Z. Replaced the .5 with a Dayton poly .47.

    Listened in A / B mode for 30 minutes, more revealing, highs a little more veiled, but better defined. So, I did the other.

    Disclosure; my ears are sensitive to sharp highs - dont even bring JBL's to my party.... whether I do more mods and what they will be will be based on how things settle in. After 3 hours, the highs are, well, perfect. The volume is proportionately correct with the mids and lows, even more so now. Very happy with the Jantzens, they do nothing perfectly- but everything about the highs is much better - to my ears in my room.

    The mids and lows are clearer and more defined, I will attribute this to the mills resistors, I never thought the difference would be this noticable.

    A word about the "firecracker" 45uf caps. For the time being, I will leave them. I can hear the spewing of drinks and gnashing of teeth from that statement, BUT; I think 90 plus percent of people regurgitate quotes they read online that these Callins caps are always bad and must be replaced, when in fact, I have found the polar opposite. I have found these firecracker Callins caps to be closer to original tolerance than any other caps. I recently measured some in a set of 1979ish AMT ESS 5b that were stamped 12uf. These tested at 12uf, not 11.98, not 12.02, but 12.00. I realize there are other criteria, but I dont , at least for now, want to risk changing the voicing on these wonderful speakers.

    More to follow.


  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,539
    Sonicaps are the forum favorite.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk