Newbie question on installation

macnut
macnut Posts: 6
edited June 2004 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hello,

Please forgive me if this is the wrong forum. I checked out the "getting started" forum and It looked like it was mostly Home stereo stuff. Anyway, I'm looking at adding 2 more sets of speakers to my system, and down the road, an amp or two. Here's my Q's

* Do the factory speaker wires need to be hooked up to the +/- terminals exclusively or is it OK if they are crossed? I replaced my speakers but had to extend the run to change location so I cut off the narrow and wide tabs and now, I don't really know which one is which anymore. I have them hooked up now, and it works, but maybe I just got lucky?

* I want to add additional speakers but until I add an amp, I only have the power from my head unit so is it OK to take the speaker wires from my HU and split it to power 2 additional speakers? (4 total) Any special technique to doing this? I realize it is not ideal but until I get my amp, It's probably the only way I can see doing it.

End goal is turning 4 speakers to 8 speakers and adding an amp later to power the second set of 4's while the HU powers the factory 4's.

Thank you in advance. I've been lurking the forums for awhile trying to learn as much as possible and you guys are awesome.

Jason
Post edited by macnut on

Comments

  • AustinKP
    AustinKP Posts: 861
    edited June 2004
    You *could* hook 2 speakers to each run from the HU, but you'd be halving the power to each one. You'd also not be able to fade between them. What would be the purpose of hooking up more speakers? More volume? Cause the factory head unit's power is barely enough for one speaker.

    As for switching the + and - terminals, all it does is switch the phase of the speakers, meaning the speakers are playing the exact opposite of what the CD player is sending. It sounds exactly the same, but just like 1/60th of a second later. Won't hurt the speakers one bit. You probably can't hear any audible difference. It could cause cancellation if the speakers are out of phase from each other, i.e. if one is wired correctly, and the other speaker is reversed. As long as all the speakers are wired the same way, it's perfect.
    http://www.silverdragon.com/punkie/cybertusk/net.idiot.html - Read it, know it

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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited June 2004
    Assuming you already have an aftermarket head unit I say the next thing you need to get is an amp. An amp will make the speakers perform **** loads better than the hu will, and this way you can be sure youre running the right wires. By the way, when you install the new amp I highly recommend NOT using the stock wires in any way! They suck.

    There are several fine 4 channels out there for all price ranges. From a $200 Alpine, to a $250 Eclipse, $300 JL Audio, $550 Xtant and up from there. All major name amps will sound pretty much the same, so regardless which you pick, as long as its a quality manufactuer (i.e. not Pyle, Pyramid, Legacy ect) it will work just fine. Let us know what your budget is and what speakers you are running and we can give you some more specific suggestions.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
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  • macnut
    macnut Posts: 6
    edited June 2004
    Hi Austin and thanks for the response!

    I have a very tiny MR2 with stock speakers that carry NO BASS whatsoever. I picked up a cheapie set of subwoofers that go behind the seat and the bass is great but in order to connect them, had to use the c-pillar speaker wires to hook it up. Doing that made me lose my mids and highs so I wanted to add more speakers to fill. BTW, I am running an aftermarket JVC HU 44wx4max (16wx4rms).

    I understand that the power will be reduced but this is just an interim mod Until I get an amp.
  • macnut
    macnut Posts: 6
    edited June 2004
    Hi Mcleod,

    I'm on a really tight budget with this project so I'm kinda going ghetto with the components. I want to learn as much as I can before investing in a really good system when the budget will allow.

    That being said, the subwoofers were like 20 bucks from pep boys and the speakers in dash are 4" and c-pillars "were" 3.5", (hence the no bass). Both are generic type brands. I'm going to experiment with fiberglass and add another set of 4" to the kicks to fill out the mids/highs.

    I guess I really want to learn and understand installation and components before I invest in a really good system. To be honest, for now, I'm not looking at any real performance. Just something that sounds good enough.

    When budget and circumstances allow, I'll definitely be back looking for recommendations!

    Thanks!

    Jason
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited June 2004
    You lost your mids and highs because Im willing to bet you are running your sub full range and they drown out the mids. Adding more speakers will only make things worse because youll be splitting 16 rms to each speaker. Thats 8 watts per speaker! Not only is that severly underpowering the speakers but it will have pretty bad distortion as well.

    I say just deal with it as long as you can til you can scrounge enough cash to get an amp.

    Check out this Profile 4 channel. It puts out 60x4 or 60x2 + 180x1 in 3 channel mode. Id say hook this up to your mids and then bridge the rear channels to ony one sub. You can also use the low pass filter on the rear channels and you will only be hearing what youre supposed to, frequencies BELOW 80 Hz.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
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    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • macnut
    macnut Posts: 6
    edited June 2004
    Really? I thought I was losing the mids and highs because the box is sitting wedged behind the seat (its a very tiny car). The boxes I have are not really actual sub woofers but are 3 way and if the seats are forward and not blocking, it actually sounds good (well to me :)) Hard to drive like that though...

    That does make sense though. Maybe I'll wait for the amp and then reconnect the other speakers. That link you sent looks pretty good.

    Thanks again man.
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited June 2004
    can you find kick panels for your car, if so, that could give you an entire new perspective and the possibilites go A LOT further
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  • macnut
    macnut Posts: 6
    edited June 2004
    They don't make kicks for a car this old. Ultimately, i'm going to fabricate some out of fiberglass. Since the car is so small, I'm going to try 4" for the kicks and aim it up at the driver/passenger in addition to the 4" in the dash, the 6-1/2" 3way subs behind the seat and 3-1/2" in the upper c-pillar. Amp will be powering the kicks and subs and HU, the dash and pillars. Not sure how it will sound but it will be cheap to throw together and I don't mind redoing anything as it's all a learning experience for me.
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited June 2004
    you already have a 3 or 4" hole right?
    if i were you id try fiberglassing some kicks and fitting a 6.5 in there and modifying the other hole for a tweet
    my opinion...
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • macnut
    macnut Posts: 6
    edited June 2004
    yeah, I have a 4" hole in the dash. Was gonna try 4" for the kick cuz I have an extra pair (4" triaxial) and there really isnt very much room down there anyway. I think if the 4" works out good, I'll use it until im ready for the good system and then make new ones with 6-1/2's then put the tweets in dash. good idea man.
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited June 2004
    ultimately, i would want to end up with a 6.5 and a tweet in each kick, with all four speakers powered by an amp, and whatever kind of subbass appeals to you reinforcing the bottom end, also powered by an amp. that's my ultimate sq goal.
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