help please

subman32

battery idea is a good one..... i use it all the time for proper wiring. but dont do 9v or else you could possibly blow one. keep it around a AA or a AAA. learned from the 9v by experience

Garry

btnhfan

i love polk. they said because it is unde warrenty they will replace them. all i have to do now is find my sounddomain receipt.

exalted512

i, for one, am extremely fond of Polk's return dept.
-Cody

Systems

why would you use a AA or AAA? their volatage is like 1.5 or so....you would want something closer to 12 volts

subman32

i'm talking about testing the sub for proper wiring or if it is recieving power. all you need is that little movement or pop. AA and AAA are just enough for that.


Garry

Buff013085

same thing happened to me except i only have 1 mm10. i am only giving it 300 watts and i have had to send it in to get repairs 2 times. this time i am selling the sub. i have never had this much problem in less than 7 months from a sub ever.

LittleCar_w/12s

You are all WRONG! WRONG,WRONG, WRONG!!!!
Nah, I'm just kidding...
My question is: what does your meter read for resistance (ohms) for the sub when you have the leads connected to the sub wires, and the wires only connected to the subs?

Here is a guide to troubleshooting subs:

GIVEN (stuff to keep in mind):
>>Digital meters sit and give random readings with nothing connected (inf. ohms) and Analog meters read at infinity.
>>Digital meters will read 0.04-0.6 ohms to be in-precise when connected, this tends to be the impedance of cheap test leads. and Analog Meters tend to be adjusted to the leads attatched and will read 0 ohms

IF the readings are:
(1)>>0 ohms when connected to the sub wires.
(2)>>infinity ohms when connected to the sub wires.
(3)>>High reading (ie. 500-10K ohms)
(4)>>1,2,4,8 (+/_ 0.3) ohms when connected to the sub wires.
(5)>>0 - Infinity depending on how the box sits, or moves.

THEN:
(1)>>Yes, you have a short, if it does not void a warranty, test the sub directly to the driver. If same, the sub is shorted, if different, your wires are crossing somewhere.
(2)>>You have an open, test driver directly, if different, the wires are to blame again.
(3)>> Check at driver, if the same, your coil is definitely fried. In this case, you will normally still get low sound from the driver, unless the coil is stuck.
(4)>>Seems like the coil wire is good, The coil may be stuck, try pushing the sub in a little to un-stick it.
(5)>>Definitely a wire poblem, check the wires in the box, also the tinsel leads from the cone/spider to the driver's terminals.

Remember, your wiring may have a short in it from melting together inside or from a cut or cross, especially if there short-circuit run through the wire at any time.