Friend's need your help in selecting the right center speaker channel

selva4u
selva4u Posts: 9
Guys hope you all doing good.. im new to this forum..need your help in selecting the good center channel for my home theater set up..here is my complete setup.. am running a yamaha avr 683(7.2) with yamaha ns8390 as front speakers..yamaha nsp 150 package for center and surround back. Polk Fxi a4 for surround left and right. Polk rc80i for atmos..sub is svs pb2000 pro and yamaha sw315.. i desperately want to replace my center speaker now.. my room dimension is 22 *16 ft..

Am eyeing on these center channel csia6, csia4, cs10 and s30.. i like csi a6 but not sure whether my amp v683 would be able to power enough to give the best output.. i like s30 in terms of performance but dont like due to its design and very small in looks.. in terms of cs10 i think its very old to pick up in 2021..can someone go through my setup and tell me exactly what center channel would be best for my set up..also am considering to replace main front speaker to polk however i dont have any complaints.. all i just wanted to make as polk..

Comments

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    edited July 2021
    Welcome to Club Polk!

    First you MUST determine that your AVR* is up to the task of feeding all those channels to fill that big space as they* tend to boast inflated power specs. I did not see an “all channels driven” power spec when googling RX-V683* review. If your AVR had** pre-outputs** you could connect, one or more external amps to drive the LCR et al.
    *full model name/number?
    ** it does not

    The SVS PB2000 is a great choice for your system’s “foundation.”

    You have not mentioned a budget, any plans for other upgrades,nor indicated
    1. All movies and what kind?
    2. All music and what kind
    3. Or your movie/music bias (eg 70/30)

    Best to use speakers from the same series across the front - LCR

    Do you plan to replace your LR? If so w/what? I see you’re using the FXi A4s so I’d be inclined to suggest the RTi A series for your LCR. Consequently the CSi A4 or A6 as your center.

    Note: the ‘A6 is pretty big, like your viewing space and you’re right, will a little more juice than the ‘A4 to power correctly.

    Meanwhile consider the above points while others chime in w/advice.

    Tony
    Post edited by gp4jesus on
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,525
    edited July 2021
    Unless changing out the receiver for something with more power I'd find a CSiA4. The receiver is ok for a "home theater in a box" type setup, but you're moving up and would be better off with something that's more powerful. The CSiA6 is physically big and more difficult to find space for but if you get a better receiver and have the space for it then it would fill the room with better sound.
    Post edited by Emlyn on
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    Thank you gp4jesus & Emlyn for your valuable response..

    @gp4jesus i am never aware of all channels driven spec..thank you for highlighting that..i will make sure to see this spec in future..
    My avr has 2 pre out which i have connected 2 subs.. may i know why do you want me to connect lcr to an external amp in additional to my existing avr.. you mean to say it doesnt have enough power now..

    .Am a kind of person who likes to watch 80 percent movies and rest music..i generally watch sci fi / adventure movies which has more bass.. yes I'm aware that all the lcr must be in same series but i don't fully believe in that..cos i have never experienced any such things..yes i have a plan to replace my LR but not rite now.. may be it will take a year due to budget.. Probably i will go with signature series.. am not willing to spend much on LR speakers.. may be i will save all my money to get another pb2000 pro.. and one more query do you really think my yamaha v683 can't power polk csi a6.. i will have csi a4 in my wishlist now.. how about cs10 And s30..? Any comments.. and please note i have enough space to place a csi a6.. awaiting for your valuable reply..also posting my avr pics for youhg63degapuha.jpg
    xa6aylua7rbl.jpg
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    Emlyn wrote: »
    Unless changing out the receiver for something with more power I'd find a CSiA4. The receiver is ok for a "home theater in a box" type setup, but you're moving up and would be better off with something that's more powerful. The CSiA6 is physically big and more difficult to find space for but if you get a better receiver and have the space for it then it would fill the room with better sound.

    I completely agree with you.. i dont think i have powerful enough avr with me to power that monster.. but am not going to change my avr for another five years or so.. im happy with what i have now.. :)
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    edited July 2021
    Please detail what…

    “… yamaha nsp 150 package for center and surround back” means?

    Specifically I’m trying to determine if Yamaha intended for your center & LR to work together. If yes then I recommend: don’t replace it - live w/it. I believe “mixing” different brands LCR is like expecting great sound from two different brand LR speakers

    It’s altogether possible even likely your AVR* is the problem not your existing center speaker. I know an AVR upgrade is 5 years down the road for you but…
    *power.
    I’ll wait for your reply. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    Hi Tony

    Yamaha Nsp 150 package comes with a center and two surround speakers..am using them as center and surround back..i think these speakers are so basic.. they have very less power and its not good enough to vocal my room size.. previously we had the same setup but in a different room which room size is small.. so i didn't notice much issue.. but always i felt dialogue was not loud and clear.. can you check the below link for the specs of nsp 150 speakers..i started with basic 5.1 avr and constantly upgrading my ht setup whenever i have some cash that's why you can see yamaha speakers and yamaha sub sw315 still lying in my setup.. (rc80i, fxia4, pb2000 pro all these are purchased within one year to upgrade my setup)

    https://europe.yamaha.com/en/products/audio_visual/speaker_systems/ns-p150/specs.html#product-tabs/
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    edited July 2021
    I’m sorry for my long-winded reply.

    I checked out the link for your center channel (CC). I’m sorry you may like my diagnosis.

    I stand by my power estimation for your system & specifically your CC, due to it’s slightly lower than average sensitivity (86dB). I believe about half HT systems are under powered and that includes yours. I wrote in a previous reply and I’m confident most will agree*: mixing speaker brands is bad business especially across the front*.

    Your upgrade $* would better spent on a slightly used, more powerful ATMOS-ready AVR. I confident someone suffering from “upgrade-itus” would make you a much happier camper all around. Make sure your upgrade has, at minimum, LCR pre-outs, fairly common in mid-line and above AVRs.
    * PB2000 - $900 shipped!

    https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-2000-pro?wiz_medium=cpc&wiz_source=google&wiz_campaign=10265136361&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Mr98pOL8gIVIwaICR0EcQgxEAAYASAAEgKDzfD_BwE

    While I’m inclined to encourage adding 2nd, 3rd, & even a 4th sub to most any system*, not for “mo’ bass,” but better bass. I believe ya should get the basics right first.
    *my 5.5 tells what you need to know

    I encourage you to wait before you act, for other opinions on everything I suggest. If you examine my signature, you’ll see I “practice what I preach.”

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,555
    Left Right and Center channel should be voice matched for the best outcome.
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    Hi Tony

    Hope you are doing great and healthy.. sorry i was too busy during the weekends and haven't had enough time to reply back.. yes i completely agree with you that i need to upgrade my AVR due to less power and its just 7.2 sacrificing my rear speakers when i connect atmos speakers..i never knew this actually.. i thought it would drive all the speakers since it had connectivity.. one more thing i noticed recently is that i have boosted(+5db) full level of bass and treble.. once i reduced that bass level i can hear the dialogues quite ok. But still i wanted to upgrade my center channel..also is there any option i can make all the rear speakers work even when i connected atmos speakers without buying new AVR..technically my avr is running with5.2.2 but i dont want this to be. What avr model would you suggest for 9.2 setup.. my budget would be 1000$. Thank you in advance..
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Left Right and Center channel should be voice matched for the best outcome.

    How can you check that. Is it just keeping all the three speakers with the same brand
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,772
    selva4u wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Left Right and Center channel should be voice matched for the best outcome.

    How can you check that. Is it just keeping all the three speakers with the same brand

    Same brand and preferably from the same line.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,555
    selva4u wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Left Right and Center channel should be voice matched for the best outcome.

    How can you check that. Is it just keeping all the three speakers with the same brand

    Same brand and preferably from the same line.

    This^^^
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    selva4u wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Left Right and Center channel should be voice matched for the best outcome.

    How can you check that. Is it just keeping all the three speakers with the same brand
    For example, you’ll see the CSi A4/6 center speakers are clustered w/the RTi A series bookies & towers. I believe the RTi and RTi A series use the same drivers, I know they use the same tweeter and as a result, xcgb this one some have used RTi bookies for surrounds. They’re all Polks so they have similar sound signatures and phase characteristics.

    So do your “Yammie” homework to find a suitable center to compliment your LR.


    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    selva4u wrote: »
    What avr model would you suggest for 9.2 setup.. my budget would be 1000$. Thank you in advance..
    I wish I could advise you on an Atmos AVR but I can not. Even though I will have the space to do one of those double digit speaker HT systems like you want, I chose to limit it to 7 channels w/ my current pre/pro.

    The best advise I can offer is look for an “all channels driven” rating and pre-amp outputs for the LCR at minimum. Should the unit provide pre amp outs for all channels, so much the better.

    I hope some one chimes in w/more specific advise to help you.

    I wish you the best in your journey
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,555
    When it comes to that many speakers IMHO you're going to need a good stout 5-7 channel amp to either run through the receiver or a pre/pro to go with a couple of stout amps.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    When it comes to that many speakers IMHO you're going to need a good stout 5-7 channel amp to either run through the receiver or a pre/pro to go with a couple of stout amps.
    My suggestion for an AVR w/pre-outs attempts to point him in that direction w/the added flexibility.

    To the OP: pre-outs allow you to add stout 2, 3, and/or 5 channel amps as $ allows, lightening the load on the AVR and to a degree future proof a portion of your system. I’ve upgraded my pre/pro using the same amps.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    When it comes to that many speakers IMHO you're going to need a good stout 5-7 channel amp to either run through the receiver or a pre/pro to go with a couple of stout amps.
    My suggestion for an AVR w/pre-outs attempts to point him in that direction w/the added flexibility.

    To the OP: pre-outs allow you to add stout 2, 3, and/or 5 channel amps as $ allows, lightening the load on the AVR and to a degree future proof a portion of your system. I’ve upgraded my pre/pro using the same amps.

    Hi Tony,

    Thank you for your overall support.. i have one quick question.. i believe my avr has pre out for atmos speakers(zone2 in the pic)..please see the pic and let me Know if i can connect external amplifier to power those speakers..as you know my avr is not powering the rear speakers when i connect atmos speakers..hth49z75uu30.jpg
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    Read your owner’s manual while I hunt up one on-line. I pray someone who heads actually done something like this chimes in soon. Meanwhile…

    …I THINKthose are “pre-outs” to, yes, connect to an external amp to play a 2 channel signal in another room.

    However, I see “dual purpose” speaker connections labeled “front presence/Zone 2” suggesting those pre-outs could also be dual purpose.

    Pardon me while I suggest “you brace for impact:” IF those pre-outs DO out put “Front presence,”that WILL lighten the AVR’s load or free up some power for the other channels BUT…

    …your LCR receive more power than the other 5 (or 7) channels combined, the LR in particular. Not a bad idea to ramp up to separate LR power down the road, though.


    Looking for your AVR’s manual..

    I tried… Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    Page 88 of 155 page manual says the Zone 2 pre-outs is a basic 2 ch output.

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1086508/Yamaha-Rx-V781.html?page=88#manual

    I could not find anything suggesting “Front Presence” output from those RCAs. I’m not saying your AVR can’t, just I couldn’t readily locate the same.

    Feel free to peruse the Manuel

    Sorry I could not be more help.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Page 88 of 155 page manual says the Zone 2 pre-outs is a basic 2 ch output.

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1086508/Yamaha-Rx-V781.html?page=88#manual

    I could not find anything suggesting “Front Presence” output from those RCAs. I’m not saying your AVR can’t, just I couldn’t readily locate the same.

    Feel free to peruse the Manuel

    Sorry I could not be more help.

    Tony

    That's Ok buddy... appreciate your kind support..thank you for your time..i will try to read the manual..
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    I forgot to mention:

    I found the Manuel a bit difficult to follow. May you have better fortune.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • selva4u
    selva4u Posts: 9
    I wish You too have a better fortune..I just want to find a way is there any option to power my rear speakers without changing my avr