Need to identify these speakers

jinxie
jinxie Posts: 3
in Vintage Speakers
I picked these up in a purchase with a bunch of other “stuff”. I really don’t know anything about speakers….but I do recognize the name and the quality that is associated with that.
I also plugged them into my stereo that is in working condition. These speakers were making sound but very quiet.
So can anyone identify and roughly what year?
And why would they be so quiet?
Thanks for the help!

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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,539
    Monitor 5A. You need to put a fuse in the holder.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • jinxie
    jinxie Posts: 3
    Thank you
    Do you know what size fuse? I suppose I should be able to find a manual on the internet….thanks again!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,539
    1A fast blow
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • lawdogg
    lawdogg Posts: 455
    Congrats on picking up a great pair of speakers

    ... Tell us more about the '57 Chevys!
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    Sweet! Vintage cars and vintage speakers.
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    I'm not sure when Polk released the 5A but I have a pair of Monitor 5A that were mfg's 1983 and a pair of Monitor 5B mfg'd 1984.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 3,148
    If I'm not mistaken, the fuse is only for the tweeter. Even without the tweeter working, there should be a decent amount of sound coming from the mid-woofer and passive sub. Make sure the mid is not seized since that is a common problem. You should be able to gently push the mid inwards with your fingertips placed around the dust cap. It should move freely in-and-out. If it seems frozen or stuck, that means the magnet has shifted and is pinching the voicecoil. The adhesive that was used to secure those magnets is known to fail.

    Luckily, if they are seized, it is fixable. I think @lawdogg here in the forum actually offers to fix them for folks.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
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  • pkquat
    pkquat Posts: 748
    @jinxie Welcome to the forum. Very nice find.

    Regarless of the fuse, the middle speaker should still move and the speakers should have some bass, just no highs. If the overall sound is muffled, see if you can move the middle speaker by hand. Some of them from this era have the magnet become unglued which can keep the speaker from moving. There are people here who can fix that.

    Also check the lower larger speaker (actually an unpowered passive radiator) rubber surround for cracks. The rubber on some of the 8in passive radiators from this era can crack, especially if they are exposed to the sun or heat.
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