Looking for epoxy recommendation for securing older Polk Audio Monitor speaker magnet

Orcbolg
Orcbolg Posts: 7
edited June 24 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Hello,
It has been awhile since I've been on the Polk discussion board. Apparently the board has gone through several updates since I was last active on it. I am looking forward to upgrading my Polk Experience here.

I am currently looking to figure out the recommended epoxy to secure the magnets in my small Polk Audio Monitor speaker collection. I have reviewed several threads here and online on the subject, but I wanted to get a solid response on a current epoxy product to use since there are so many varieties out there that others have experienced. The main reason I am asking is I am preparing to move at a future date, and I do not want to have my small Polk speaker collection misalign the magnets during the process of transporting them. I look forward to the informative answers.

I currently have the following Polks...
M4 w/Peerless tweeters (latest pickup)
M5JR+ (my first Polks, bought @HickamAFB Hawaii in 1990)
M7
M7 Series2
M10 w/Peerless tweeters
M10A

Comments

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,620
    edited June 24
    Powergrab ultimate
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
  • Orcbolg
    Orcbolg Posts: 7
    Now is there a suggested prep before you use the adhesive needed before you use it on the magnet assembly? Like wipe/swab the area with alcohol to clean it before applying?...
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,483
    Never hurts to have a clean surface when using any adhesive/epoxy.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,211
    When transporting lay them on the backs. You can also short the binding post with short wire or cable.
  • Orcbolg
    Orcbolg Posts: 7
    Good info! Did not think to short the binding posts together when transporting them. Just curious about the reason for that?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,211
    Orcbolg wrote: »
    Good info! Did not think to short the binding posts together when transporting them. Just curious about the reason for that?

    Keeps woofers from free bouncing as much. You're using the magnet, voice coil to lend some support.
  • Orcbolg
    Orcbolg Posts: 7
    I was figuring it was something along those lines due to shorting them together at the posts. Helping to stabilize the speakers is a good thing...Thanks for the reply...
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,103
    I'm back to preferring JB Weld.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,091
    Good, that is what I used.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • MotoMoto
    MotoMoto Posts: 4
    I use this stuff. Nice and slow to set up and doesn’t ‘flow’ as it hardens. Hard after 1 day, really strong after 3 days. Can be smoothed out with a wet (water) finger.
    14bokcwglxkf.jpeg
  • Been occupied with other items including family. Glad to know there are more options to consider...I have experience with JBWeld I've used with other projects but the PC-7 looks promising too...more research on the products until I am satisfied to commit...
  • ddog
    ddog Posts: 229
    What is the reason we don't prefer the PowerGrab Ultimate anymore?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,211
    edited October 12
    ddog wrote: »
    What is the reason we don't prefer the PowerGrab Ultimate anymore?

    Some felt the bond was not good enough on metal.
    I've used it on a few drivers as it was much easier than JB weld.
    My thoughts were that it would hold good enough to keep the magnet from shifting better than if nothing was there.

    Either way dropping a driver I feel all bets are off.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 11,769
    The good stuff is by the black paint
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,091
    Which black paint sounds best; flat, satin or gloss?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 11,769
    Depends
    Carpet, hardwood, subfloor , concrete??
    Wall coverings, windows??
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a