Sperker preference?

AsSiMiLaTeD
AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
edited June 2004 in Speakers
Let's say the system usage is 50/50 music and HT...but good 2 ch performance is a MUST.

Assuming electronics, etc to be a constant, which system would be your choice?

System A:

Fronts: RTi150s or 12s - basically large speakers...
Center: CSi40...large center
Rears: RTi28s or something of the like
Subwoofer: None - bass handled by the fronts

System B:

Fronts: LSi7
Center: LSiC
Rears: LSi7
Subwoofer: Something in the $500 price range...

I'm doing some thinking about my set-up and just wondering what you guys perfer...
Post edited by AsSiMiLaTeD on
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Comments

  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited June 2004
    The real answer is neither system will provide you with what you want. Option A is great for HT, but eventually, you'll need a separate 2-channel system for music.

    I hooked up my Lsi7's to my HT system, but didn't like it, so I put the 70's back. Gotta have bass on the fronts.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited June 2004
    P.S. -- you still need a subwoofer for Option A.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    Originally posted by Early B.
    P.S. -- you still need a subwoofer for Option A.
    I have to disagree here. Option A is what I have now, and I have no issues with lack of bass...just thinking about better mids and highs...
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  • TheGrayGhost
    TheGrayGhost Posts: 196
    edited June 2004
    I voted for option 'B' except I would use LSi9 speakers for the front L/R. LSi9s along with a good $500 +/-$100 subwoofer would be good for two channel music. At least it is in my setup.
    Best Regards, Cliff
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  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited June 2004
    well as you may know, you have alot of bass with the 150's but they suffer in the midrange... (ive had these) the bass is Ok, i guess compared to a polk sub.. I noticed you needed alot more volume to get 'alot" of bass although... Today i tried my lsi7's in the HT rig, alot clearer and they sounded great with the Svs, however they take more volume to get as loud as the 70's and the small 5 1/4 mid doesnt compare to the duals on the 70's... and the small enclosure to boot... i could easily see a set of lsi9's would work great with or without a sub for music and with a sub for HT... The lsi7's would also work great as surrounds... If i had another set i would consider them in my Ht as rears.. so i guess what i am saying is either system will work.... but neither are optimal IMO anyways...
    i would think more on the lines of
    A: lsi9 mains
    lsi7 surrounds
    insert good sub here~
    and use as music and HT,

    But im sure your trying to work with what you already have avaliable..

    good luck
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2

    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited June 2004
    As far as the RTi setup goes the 12's are better than the 150's in the mid range and highs and the FXi5's would be better for surrounds.

    Here again imho the LSi15's or 9's would clearly be better in the front and LSiFX's would be better for surrounds ...
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • racer4551
    racer4551 Posts: 373
    edited June 2004
    Lsi 15's for the mains,Lsic for the center,Lsifx for the surrounds,Lsi7's for rear surrounds,SVS20-39pc+ for the sub=music and hometheater nirvanna!!!!!!!!:D :D :cool:
    *HT PRE-PRO*:Rotel rsp-1068, *AMP*:Rotel RMB 1095 *DVD PLAYER*:Denon 2200,*CD PLAYERS*,Arcam Alpha Mcd 6 disk carasel,Hughes Hdtv receiver, Hughes hdvr2,*MAINS*:Polk LSI 15'S, *CENTER*:Polk LSIC, *SIDE SURROUNDS*:Polk LSIFX,*REAR SURROUND*:Polk LSI 7'S,*SUB*:SVS PB2+*.MONITOR*:Mitsubishi ws48413 hdtv,Monsterpower hts2500X2,,Sony playstation2,Harmony sst-659 remote
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  • fireshoes
    fireshoes Posts: 3,167
    edited June 2004
    Glad you're liking the LSi's, racer!
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  • gregure
    gregure Posts: 871
    edited June 2004
    Even with the 12's using option A, you would still need a good sub. There's just too many movies coming out now with very low bass, even the 12's couldn't get there with confidence. Return of the King, Master and Commander, and Star Wars would not be the same without a sub.
    Current System:

    Mitsubishi 30" LCD LT-3020 (for sale**)
    Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grand (Rosewood)-Mains (with Audioquest Mont Blanc cables)
    CSi5-Center (for sale**)
    FXi3-surrounds (for sale**)
    Martin Logan Depth-Sub
    B&K AVR 507
    Pimare CD21-CD Player
    Denon 1815-DVD Player
    Panamax M5500-EX-Line Conditioner
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    Originally posted by gregure
    Even with the 12's using option A, you would still need a good sub. There's just too many movies coming out now with very low bass, even the 12's couldn't get there with confidence. Return of the King, Master and Commander, and Star Wars would not be the same without a sub.

    quote:
    Originally posted by Early B.
    P.S. -- you still need a subwoofer for Option A.


    I have to disagree here. Option A is what I have now, and I have no issues with lack of bass...just thinking about better mids and highs...

    Well I must be getting alot of room gain, becuase I have no complaints about lack of bass. I'm sure what I have now won't compare to an SVS, but I tried a PSW505 and didn't like it as much as the subs in the 150s, that's why I went that route...
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  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited June 2004
    any set up with a decent subwoofer. that's what really counts anyway, right guys?

    Go with 8's or 10's fronts, CSi40 center, RTi50's surrounds, and a Velo, SVS or HSU sub and call it good. Any plenty of beer. ;)
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited June 2004
    I'll repeat the best audio advice I have received; who cares what I (we) think, what sounds better to you?
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    Okay, so would I be better off with the 150s and no sub or the 70s with a 505 or another sub in that price range?
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    Deleted
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    P.S. - The reason I'm considering the approach of smaller speakers with a sub is that I'm having trouble finding amplification for the 150s that has a good quality to price ratio.

    I'm set on the Parasound HCA 1500A. I'd need two of those in mono to do the 150s justice, but could drive the 70s with only on of those, saving me a few hundred $$$.

    If I could 'trade' my 150s for some 70s, I should clear about $200 - $300, which I can apply along with another $300 or so towards a sub.

    I guess I have two questions:

    1 - Would you guys reccomend this approach of the 70s up front with a sub?

    2 - Is there a sub out there for $500 that can give me as much bass as I have with the 150s? What's the best sub I can get for $500?

    I know I should listen and decide for myself, and I will do some listening, just wanted to hear from a few of you...
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited June 2004
    Not likely you'll NEED more than the HCA-1500A to drive the 150's effectively unless you listen at insane volume ... do you ?

    The SVS PCi or PC1-ISD @ $599 are more or less in your price range.
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    Originally posted by PolkWannabie
    Not likely you'll NEED more than the HCA-1500A to drive the 150's effectively unless you listen at insane volume ... do you ?
    I have to crank it pretty good to get a good volume becuase of room accoustics, ceiling height, etc...

    I don't listen at insane levels, never even approach 100 db, but I have to crank it up to get good volume...
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited June 2004
    I don't know what pretty good means ... - X dB with X being what ?

    Personally I can't turn mine up much past -21 dB without everything in the room coming unglued including the listener as HT will have peaks in that'll be 105+ db and that's in a room that's 3000+ cubic feet with large openings to multiple rooms that are as large or larger.

    I might be able to turn it up a little louder for music but not much.
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,728
    edited June 2004
    I have to turn it up to -15 to get decent volumes, I'm guessing around 90 db but I haven't measured...

    whereas I can take it in my bedroom and turn it to -20 and blow my ears out...
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited June 2004
    Well just keep in mind that when you double the power you get 3 dB more.

    So if you now have 100 wpc then 200 wpc will give you 3 dB more and 400 wpc will give you 3 dB more than that or 6 dB more total.
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited June 2004
    You probably aren't getting "real bass" with either the 150s or a 505. Neither of them will give you impact around or below 20hz.

    I speak of HT type of impact bass.

    I know you bought the 150s for their full frequency, but you still have to spend more on amps to get them to reach their potential.

    I would ditch the 150s, buy RTi70s, 8s or 10s or LSi 9s and put a real HT sub with them. You would get better mids, way good bass
    and probably save $ when all is done.

    I like the 150s, but they are lacking in the mids a little, and they do handle musical bass better than any other RTi, but 20hz bass has never been a Polk strength, towers or subs.

    Just my .02,

    DG
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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