SDA 1A Setup Help
daretodasein
Posts: 5
Hello all,
Total newbie here, I just got received a free set of Polk SDA 1A speakers. These are set to replace a pair of active book shelf speakers and I’m completely out of my depth on how to set up and get these things going.
I would appreciate any suggestions on where to get/what to do with the following:
Amplifier: I currently run a technics turntable through a pre-amp and then to active speakers. I’m going to need a solid amplifier but am unsure of what I should be looking for. Going through some old posts here were like reading Greek as the technical language was a bit beyond my grasp at the moment. I have a JVC R-X 40 receiver I can use but don’t think it possesses the power I need to get the most out of these speakers. If you all could offer some opinions on some amplifiers it would be appreciated. Not looking to do much outside of playing vinyl.
Interconnect cable: this was missing and need to track down a new one. Any suggestions here would be great. It looks like it needs a cable similar to an electrical cord.
Last but not least: one of the speaker wire ports was broken (I’ll add pictures) how difficult are these to fix and what pieces should I look for?
Total newbie here, I just got received a free set of Polk SDA 1A speakers. These are set to replace a pair of active book shelf speakers and I’m completely out of my depth on how to set up and get these things going.
I would appreciate any suggestions on where to get/what to do with the following:
Amplifier: I currently run a technics turntable through a pre-amp and then to active speakers. I’m going to need a solid amplifier but am unsure of what I should be looking for. Going through some old posts here were like reading Greek as the technical language was a bit beyond my grasp at the moment. I have a JVC R-X 40 receiver I can use but don’t think it possesses the power I need to get the most out of these speakers. If you all could offer some opinions on some amplifiers it would be appreciated. Not looking to do much outside of playing vinyl.
Interconnect cable: this was missing and need to track down a new one. Any suggestions here would be great. It looks like it needs a cable similar to an electrical cord.
Last but not least: one of the speaker wire ports was broken (I’ll add pictures) how difficult are these to fix and what pieces should I look for?
Comments
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I'd start out by reading the SDA Handbook. It is pretty well written and if there is something you don't understand, you can ask for clarification. Did you search on "SDA 1A" There are lots of threads on this. Binding posts can be replaced. Best way to go about it is to remove the terminal plate carefully and determine what needs to be done to gain access. Post some pics here. You can take advantage of the problem and do an upgrade to better quality Binding Posts at the same time, or just put a cheapie in for now. You can do a search on ebay for Polk SDA Interconnect Cable or the like. Lots of people replace the connector with a Neutrik one and fabricate their own cable to save money. Here's a blade blade one on eBay right now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Polk-Audio-Interconnect-Cable-for-Some-SDA-Series-Speakers-Brand-New/162028495401?hash=item25b9a6a229:g:~aEAAOSwxCxT0rW3
21ft seems excessively long. If it were me I'd ask them to make a smaller one, hopefully for less money too.
You are going to have to a careful checkup on that speaker because a broken binding post isn't a sign that it was well treated. Good luck.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Binding posts are very easy to fix. You'll need a good stout amp those speakers start at 4 ohms and drop down into the 3 ohm area, they are not easy to drive. They will seriously tax any receiver since they're impedance dropped so low.
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Gardenstater wrote: »I'd start out by reading the SDA Handbook. It is pretty well written and if there is something you don't understand, you can ask for clarification. Did you search on "SDA 1A" There are lots of threads on this. Binding posts can be replaced. Best way to go about it is to remove the terminal plate carefully and determine what needs to be done to gain access. Post some pics here. You can take advantage of the problem and do an upgrade to better quality Binding Posts at the same time, or just put a cheapie in for now. You can do a search on ebay for Polk SDA Interconnect Cable or the like. Lots of people replace the connector with a Neutrik one and fabricate their own cable to save money. Here's a blade blade one on eBay right now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Polk-Audio-Interconnect-Cable-for-Some-SDA-Series-Speakers-Brand-New/162028495401?hash=item25b9a6a229:g:~aEAAOSwxCxT0rW3
21ft seems excessively long. If it were me I'd ask them to make a smaller one, hopefully for less money too.
You are going to have to a careful checkup on that speaker because a broken binding post isn't a sign that it was well treated. Good luck.
Thank you for the response.
The post was broken by the person who helped me pick them up. They had the hookup on the speakers so I couldn’t be too mad about it. It literally broke off because they placed the speaker on the bed of the truck and slid it in and before I could say stop, the damage was done. Otherwise they have been treated well and sitting in a clean and dry garage.
How could I go about upgrading the binding posts?
I’ll grab that interconnect cord though. Thank you for that.
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Easy peasy
Remove cup pull hot melt glue off unscrew and replace post, then hot melt glue ...your done. -
Binding posts are very easy to fix. You'll need a good stout amp those speakers start at 4 ohms and drop down into the 3 ohm area, they are not easy to drive. They will seriously tax any receiver since they're impedance dropped so low.
Thank you. I definitely won’t bother with trying it with the receiver. I’m out of my depth about ohms and how much wattage these things need. Are integrated amplifiers decent for these?
https://www.denon.com/en-us/product/special/avr-s750h-r?gclid=Cj0KCQjwse-DBhC7ARIsAI8YcWKM1yaAteFnHq287BMeh2GZbGQ5L5W8nXpQR7DGTeUHdo4wDciTvTMaAifQEALw_wcB
Was looking at this Denon but one of threads suggested against integrated amps for driving these speakers.
Someone local is selling an Parasound HCA 750a, but being early in the game I’m unsure if it would be powerful enough for these speakers.
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You're welcome. Hopefully you don't have any shifted pole piece/magnet assemblies from that move. If the Binding Posts from Polk are the same as the ones that were in my 7B's they will be 5/32" and wires will have ring terminals that fit that size of binding post. Most aftermarket ones are larger I think. My Cardas CCGR S that I installed are 5/16". These are kind of on the short side, unless you do what I did and file off the bosses on the plastic outer mount and you have to bore out the holes in the plastic terminal plates to 5/16" without losing their previous centers, ie. on a drill press is best, clamped in place to prevent shifting. I used a brass washer against the inside of the terminal plate, followed by a fiber washer, followed by the ring terminal, and then the gold plated brass nut that they supply. They make another model that might be better. I'll post when I remember.
PS: I see that they have now gone from gold plated brass nuts to a billet copper nut. I had complained quite a bit about that to them lol. Maybe they listened. Also, I see that they now have red and black single mounts that can be purchased separately so that you could do away with the standard mounting plate. Might make installation far easier and gives you color coding as well.Post edited by Gardenstater onGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Ran mine with both a Carver TFM 25 or TFM45.
Adcom 555
Parasound work good But I'd look for a higher wattage amp.
Aragon 4004 -
That Denon is an AVR, it is NOT an integrated amplifier. Do not use an AVR to drive your speakers. There are plenty of integrated amps that are more than capable of driving them.
To remove the original hot glue material use a Q-tip and denatured alcohol. Keep wiping on the alcohol until the glue is good and wet. Wait a few minutes and you'll be able to peel it right off.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ran mine with both a Carver TFM 25 or TFM45.
Adcom 555
Parasound work good But I'd look for a higher wattage amp.
Aragon 4004
Any thoughts on an ADCOM GFA-5400? I’ve looked at the 555 and they’re slightly beyond what I can afford although they provide superior wattage for. The GFA-5400 gives about 200 for 4ohms for 2 channels, but I don’t know if that will allow the SDA’s to reach their full potential.
I’ll save and wait on eBay and check local Craigslist and marketplace if that can’t do the trick.
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Not sure it's common ground.
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Not sure it's common ground.
Just verified that and you’re right. Looks like the waiting game begins.
