Alternative to OEM spikes and anti-vibration adhesive for SDS-CRS + speaker stands?

Polk Forum,

I'm looking for Carpet Spikes (part #RF-1400-1) for OEM 80's SDA-CRS + speaker stands. Polk customer service adv'd these spikes are no longer in production. Anyone know a source for originals or know an alternate product that would work with the stock nails on the speaker stand bases?

At present I just use wine bottle corks over the nails to preclude damage to the hardwood under the carpet but need a better solution. I may ultimately have the speaker stands directly on hardwood so I wanted to get insight on what proper feet for the stands to get if I go that route as well.

Additionally, the top of the stands have an apparent one way adhesive with what I think is a vibration controlling and speaker stability surface where the speakers are placed upon. This surface is degrading and peeling. Anyone have any ideas on what to replace it with to keep the stands as original as possible while still providing speaker placement stability and vibration control?

Thank you.

Answers

  • Dr_Wu
    Dr_Wu Posts: 243
    edited March 4
    Sounds like you have the spikes, and are looking for floor protection? Lots of companies sell discs that have indentations for the spike tips. Materials vary: steel, brass, composites - wood or cork (as you know) also work.

    My OEM stands had no such adhesive or protection to interface with the speaker. I placed 4 discs of carpet pads at the corners. I think some folks use BlueTack, IIRC. Sorbothane and the like should also work.

    Welcome to the forum!
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 2,014
    George / NJ

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  • iamthefly
    iamthefly Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info Dr. Wu and Gardenstater. Those dangling nails are the OEM spikes?????? Hmmmm, I thought the factory spikes would be a multi-prong unit, not a bent nail. I'll look around for some type of spike that will allow the "nail" from the stand to be slotted into it and provide a better positioning on carpet.

    I don't want to alter the stands by ripping out the existing spikes (aka single nails). If I go the hardwood floor route I'll search out some disc feet that will accommodate the spike and what you both suggested. The cork stands I have now are not too bad and are cost effective.

    Read up on the blue track and seems a viable option. Just want to ensure the putty substance will not affect the veneer of the speaker cabinets.

    Thanks again for the input.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 2,014
    edited March 4
    Whatever is there, which you are referring to as nails, must be screwed into a threaded hole in the base of the stands. It would be pretty weird otherwise. You need to unscrew it and find out what thread size and pitch it is and that will be your specification you need in any replacement spikes, whether for carpet or hardwood.

    If you are concerned about the Blu Tac damaging the veneer, which I would be too, you could use some squares of that non slip material they use under rugs. It is an open mesh type appearance but it is foam rubberized. Sorbothane or Isodamp would be great but expensive. I actually have nothing between my 7B's and my particle board platform at the top of my stands, and I'm fine with that, but that is a non marring surface with respect to the vinyl and is a different situation than you have. I was going to suggest that you could also use some 2" x 2" squares of Armacell Pipe Insulation Tape but that stuff is a little bit on the soft side and I would not say it is ideal, although it would work if that is all you have handy.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,266
    edited March 4
    The stands came with strips of a soft pad material. No idea what it was, but there are plenty of viable options today. Getting all of the original material off is a bit of work, Goof Off helps a lot. Do not use Blu-tack or Sorbothane as a replacement.

    The original spikes, which are pure junk, have a 1/4-20 thread pattern. They will easily unscrew. Again, there are plenty of viable options, many with matching floor discs. Brass spikes are best, but I'm fond of stainless steel too. Look for ones that are no larger than 1" in diameter at the top otherwise they will look stupid. Using cork as a floor protector defeats the purpose of the spikes.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,266
    Just noticed that you have the stands on carpet. The spikes must pierce the carpet and be in solid contact with the hard surface below otherwise they are useless.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • iamthefly
    iamthefly Posts: 5
    Thanks all for the info. Was able to remove the original spikes...one spike was uncooperative but it finally acquiesced. Fortunately I did not break it off in the process. Will take everyone's input into account when I search out replacement spikes/feet.

    As well I have some rubberized kitchen cabinet lining (1/8" thick or so I think) somewhere so I'll see if that is a viable buffer btwn the stands and cabinets. The upside would be no apparent adhesive necessary to either the stands/cabs and hopefully won't leave any markings/discoloration on either. Only downside is removing the existing residue from the original factory padding on the top of the stands but I'll get some adhesive remover for that.

    One more thing I wanted to do was give the stands a good cleaning. The finish is overall ok with some scuffs and scratches, etc. but no refin needed. There are a few spots on some of the edges that look like either white paint or could be the finish outer coating that has chipped away exposing the white undercoating. Is this typical for these stands? I figure that if the white substance cannot be removed then it is likely to be undercoating...I'm guessing a heavy black marker would touch these up.

    Other than that I figure all the stands need is a solid scrubbing with a nylon brush and water/dish washing liquid then a final rinse. Is this a good method for cleaning the stands up?

    Thank you again.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,266
    edited March 5
    There is no primer or undercoat, just bare steel. Original Windex and a cotton rag work very well for cleaning the stands.

    Again, if the spikes are not in direct contact with the solid surface of the floor then they are doing nothing.

    If you really want to up your game pop the end caps off the top and bottom sections, which is no easy feat, and fill the two sections with lead shot. Each stand will take 22 lbs.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 7,692
    edited March 5
    My OEM stands have what appear to be black strips of felt material on them for the CRS+s to sit on wonder if they are the original adhesive strips?
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  • iamthefly
    iamthefly Posts: 5
    gudnoyez, my stands have nothing but the plain degrading adhesive strip left on them which I am in the process of removing. There is no indication of what type padding was ever there.

    F1Nut, thnx for the cleaning and spike suggestions. I'll consider the lead shot route down the road. If the plastic end caps are so difficult to remove will they fully reattach? And insert approx 5.5lbs of lead shot in each section opening then reseal as each is done?

    Thank you.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,266
    Yes, the end caps will reattach. That's 22 lbs. of shot per stand. The top section is U shaped and separated internally from the bottom section. The bottom section includes the U shaped base and both posts. The whole job is a PITA, but worth it.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • iamthefly
    iamthefly Posts: 5
    If I were to go the lead shot route what size shot would be best to fill these stands? Thanks.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,266
    I use #7
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk