Peerless tweeters

beyke
beyke Posts: 3
in Vintage Speakers
So I have some original monitor 10 speakers with 2 fuses. They used the original denmark peerless tweeters but the person that owned them before me blew them. I ordered some of the american made peerless tweeters from around the same time frame. Can both sets of peerless tweeters use the same crossover or does that need to be changed?
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    What are the numbers on your old Peerless tweeters? I have been trying to figure out the differences between the earlier ones and the later ones but data is scarce. Did you ever measure the DCR (DC resistance) of your old ones (prior to getting trashed) and your new ones? What is the number on the new ones?

    I am starting to think that the earlier ones had different, somewhat higher impedance than the later ones but I am not certain to what extent it makes a noticeable difference. I will say that when I swapped out my Danish 1979 Peerless with a DCR of 8.5 Ohms forsome 1981 Made in USA ones with a DCR of 7.1 Ohms, I preferred the Danish.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,542
    edited December 2020
    beyke wrote: »
    So I have some original monitor 10 speakers with 2 fuses. They used the original denmark peerless tweeters but the person that owned them before me blew them. I ordered some of the american made peerless tweeters from around the same time frame. Can both sets of peerless tweeters use the same crossover or does that need to be changed?

    You can use them, no problem.
    Post edited by F1nut on
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • beyke
    beyke Posts: 3
    Unfortunately I don't know what the numbers on my old tweeters were. I am pretty sure they had 7514 on them. My new ones are 5514. I did not measure the resistance. They were already blown when I got the speakers and then I took them to be fixed and i never got the old tweeter magnet back. I hadn't checked too much at the time because I didn't know much about them. I would prefer to have the ones from denmark but right now I will take what I can get.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    What I was most interested in was the whole number 7514XXXX OR 5514XXXX. The last 4 digits are the week and year. I'm sure you'll be fine. We simply don't know what changes may have been made besides the impedance. For all I know when they lowered the impedance they may have also lowered the efficiency and voicing may have remained the same. We're talking subtleties here. I feel that the best bet if you want the sound to be as close as possible is to keep the dates very close, without any further information.

    What is the date on your speakers crossovers? Even though the original Peerless are gone, apparently, you can get the date of mfg. from that. What is the date and DCR of your made in USA Peerless?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    I've used a few different 5514 and 7514s. You should be perfectly fine.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited December 2020
    The impedances do vary between earlier ones as Gardenstater said. It is also difficult to verify whether the different manufacturing dates had a different doping compound applied to domes from what I've seen. Let your ears be the final judge.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • beyke
    beyke Posts: 3
    The only thing the crossover itself says is BH 11/8.
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