Monitor 7b caps and resistors
Yemm66
Posts: 9
Good afternoon all. I just joined the Polk forum after I picked up some 7b Monitors. I am supremely impressed with their sound. So warm and clean. I decided to order some new film caps and resistors to enhance them based on so many of the recommendations here. I decided on Clarity Caps. CSA 12uf and CSA 33uf along with Mills 2.7 MRA 12W and Mills 4.5 MRA 12W. Should be here before Christmas so I can install and give my impressions.
Are there any other worthwhile enhancements to speak of?
Are there any other worthwhile enhancements to speak of?
Comments
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Dynamat Xtreme on the baskets, upgrade the binding posts, Hurricane nuts and cap screws, BH5 behind the mid-drivers and glue the driver magnets.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
..... and a good amp.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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I replaced the wires from XO to MW6500/Peerless tweeter with 12 awg Neotech UPOCC solid/15.5 awg Cardas Litz. If I had to do it again I might go with 11.5 awg Cardas Litz for the MW6500 wire must because the solid core Neotech lacks flexibility. I chose to retain my fuse block because I'm using a 1971 (?) Crown D150 amp which afaik has never been serviced. I used 11.5awg for the fuse block to XO wires and binding post wires. I used Cardas binding posts. Actually, have only done the one speaker with the fuse block and binding post mods and I'm going to do the second one shortly.
I'm sure you'll be as happy with the results as I am. Enjoy!George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
This is my setup now. Sansui G-6000 which is fully recapped. Sansui SR-4050c recapped. Sounds really good now so suggestions from everyone are, I’m sure, gonna be even better...... and a good amp.
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Would this be the correct wire? How much would I need in your opinion?Gardenstater wrote: »I replaced the wires from XO to MW6500/Peerless tweeter with 12 awg Neotech UPOCC solid/15.5 awg Cardas Litz. If I had to do it again I might go with 11.5 awg Cardas Litz for the MW6500 wire must because the solid core Neotech lacks flexibility. I chose to retain my fuse block because I'm using a 1971 (?) Crown D150 amp which afaik has never been serviced. I used 11.5awg for the fuse block to XO wires and binding post wires. I used Cardas binding posts. Actually, have only done the one speaker with the fuse block and binding post mods and I'm going to do the second one shortly.
I'm sure you'll be as happy with the results as I am. Enjoy!
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Good afternoon all. I just joined the Polk forum after I picked up some 7b Monitors. I am supremely impressed with their sound. So warm and clean. I decided to order some new film caps and resistors to enhance them based on so many of the recommendations here. I decided on Clarity Caps. CSA 12uf and CSA 33uf along with Mills 2.7 MRA 12W and Mills 4.5 MRA 12W. Should be here before Christmas so I can install and give my impressions.
Are there any other worthwhile enhancements to speak of? [/quote
Hi. I have done the MW6500s with two part epoxy at the baskets and Loctite power grab at the magnet. What is BH5 please? Thanks, J.Dynamat Xtreme on the baskets, upgrade the binding posts, Hurricane nuts and cap screws, BH5 behind the mid-drivers and glue the driver magnets.
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The OEM wire lengths are tweeters/MW ; 24" x 2/20" x 2. I retained those lengths but they could be shortened. The other wires I shortened a bit and (from Polk Binding Post thread) are;
Polk tweeter supply wire (black, through Littlefuse #357 fuse block) was 16x30awg = 18awg, 2 x 7" = 14" long. Now 11.5awg Cardas Litz, 2 x 4-1/4" = 8-1/2" long.
Return wire, white, was also 18awg, 7", now 11.5awg Cardas Litz, 5".
Always good to buy some extra, especially if you've never worked with Litz before.
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Would this be the correct wire? How much would I need in your opinion?
Unless you have a solder pot forget using Cardas wire.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Awesome. I have never worked with Litz other than some headshell wiring for a turntable. Thanks for the information. Very informative.Gardenstater wrote: »The OEM wire lengths are tweeters/MW ; 24" x 2/20" x 2. I retained those lengths but they could be shortened. The other wires I shortened a bit and (from Polk Binding Post thread) are;
Polk tweeter supply wire (black, through Littlefuse #357 fuse block) was 16x30awg = 18awg, 2 x 7" = 14" long. Now 11.5awg Cardas Litz, 2 x 4-1/4" = 8-1/2" long.
Return wire, white, was also 18awg, 7", now 11.5awg Cardas Litz, 5".
Always good to buy some extra, especially if you've never worked with Litz before.
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Do you have any photos of the completed work? I am more visual than anything. LOL.
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Hi. I have done the MW6500s with two part epoxy at the baskets and Loctite power grab at the magnet. What is BH5 please? Thanks, J.
Whatever gave you the idea to apply epoxy at the basket??? The only thing that needs securing is the magnet, which is sandwiched between the pole plates.
BH5 is Black Hole 5.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Jesse,, this thread caused me to drag out my old monitor 7b’s,, I had forgotten how good they sound,, one question,, the BH5,, should be placed behind the mid driver only,,correct? Thank you kindly!JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Yes just a square behind the midwoofer.
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George, as Ivan stated. I recommend only 4"x4" behind each.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hi. I have done the MW6500s with two part epoxy at the baskets and Loctite power grab at the magnet. What is BH5 please? Thanks, J.
Whatever gave you the idea to apply epoxy at the basket??? The only thing that needs securing is the magnet, which is sandwiched between the pole plates.
BH5 is Black Hole 5.
Reading another post I assumed (Yes, I know what assumed does for ya) that's where the epoxy needed to be applied. I also did the magnet area as seen in photos. I guess I'm protected now. LOL> Also, what wire do you suggest other than what was mentioned?
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Regarding Jesse's recommendation in one of the earlier posts of using Dynamat Extreme on the baskets, there are lots of threads you can research on the forum here depicting how to do that.
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Whoever came across that black hole 5 I have to thank because that stuff really made my sda2A's sound much better. Don't do without it.
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Yemm66 I was able to tin and solder the Cardas Litz even though my solder pot was on the fritz, but it is tedious to remove the urethane coating on all the strands using a gas burner flame followed by a wire wheel on a dremel tool.
I feel it was worth the effort and is a one time job, then enjoy scenario. If you want to avoid the extra hassle of working with Litz you could try this one:
https://silversonic.com/products/hookup-wire/ofh-14/
It is stranded so there is the possible issue of smearing as electrons can pass from one strand to another but it is Continuous Cast Crystal of unspecified purity. I can't vouch for it because I haven't used it but another member pitdogg likes it.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Hi. I have done the MW6500s with two part epoxy at the baskets and Loctite power grab at the magnet. What is BH5 please? Thanks, J.
Whatever gave you the idea to apply epoxy at the basket??? The only thing that needs securing is the magnet, which is sandwiched between the pole plates.
BH5 is Black Hole 5.
Reading another post I assumed (Yes, I know what assumed does for ya) that's where the epoxy needed to be applied. I also did the magnet area as seen in photos. I guess I'm protected now. LOL> Also, what wire do you suggest other than what was mentioned?
I really like the Furutech hook up wire, but they stopped making it. I've also used Cardas in the past, but it's too much trouble and IMO, it's no better than the Furutech. Really not sure what to recommend at this point, maybe Neotech. Take a look at the offerings at Parts Connexion.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thank you all for the information. I will do some reading this week and see what's out there. Waiting for a paycheck to afford to move forward with more improvements. Grandkids and Christmas equal Grandpa is out of cash! LOL.
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Wireworld and Audioquest also sells various qualities of wire by the foot.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
DarqueKnight's thread on using Audioquest GO-4
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/141258/audioquest-go-4-internal-wire-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
