Can you have too much power

rburgess714
rburgess714 Posts: 616
edited November 2020 in 2 Channel Audio
I know it sounds ludicrous but can you have too much power? My new integrated sounds so good to me but I have barely got the volume knob to 10 o’clock and it gets really loud. Just really good clean power. So much that I wonder if it is overkill and I would be just as satisfied less? Is this just crazy talk?

Living Room
Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

Office
Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
«1

Comments

  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    To me it sounds like you are describing the gain structure of the preamp and the implementation of the volume control, moreso than the amount of wpc on tap.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Crazy talk
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Clipdat wrote: »
    To me it sounds like you are describing the gain structure of the preamp and the implementation of the volume control, moreso than the amount of wpc on tap.

    I don’t think there is any fault with the design or implementation of the gain structure but honestly don’t know much about that. I’m more second guessing how much power I thought I needed. It’s a wonderful piece but I probably could have been just as satisfied with the M5 which has a bit less power and less coin.

    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • F1nut wrote: »
    Crazy talk

    Ok, that makes feel better :)
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    edited November 2020
    It’s a wonderful piece but I probably could have been just as satisfied with the M5 which has a bit less power and less coin.

    I would politely disagree with that assessment, as there are many elements that go into the design of the amplifier which arguably have a more audible impact than the total amount of watts per channel.

    Even though your M6si delivers 220wpc, you very well could only be using 1 watt or less for average listening levels. Of course it will exceed 1 watt for transient peaks and dynamic swings.

    This is why the "first watt" and the overall design of the amplifier itself matters so much more than the wpc rating.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    edited November 2020
    Unfortunately the watts per channel gets way too much importance thanks to certain (ex)-member(s) here who used to repeat like gospel that you need at least "200 watts per channel". I strongly feel that advice like this only serves to alienate and intimidate people who are new to the hobby.
  • Clipdat wrote: »
    It’s a wonderful piece but I probably could have been just as satisfied with the M5 which has a bit less power and less coin.

    I would politely disagree with that assessment, as there are many elements that go into the design of the amplifier which arguably have a more audible impact than the total amount of watts per channel.

    Even though your M6si delivers 220wpc, you very well could only be using 1 watt or less for average listening levels. Of course it will exceed 1 watt for transient peaks and dynamic swings.

    This is why the "first watt" and the overall design of the amplifier itself matters so much more than the wpc rating.

    No worries, feel free to disagree I am 4 years or so in the rabbit hole and still getting my learn on. I understand the importance of the first watt but if it's the same manufacture and series only a step down in power from 220 to 150 wouldn't that 1st watt be the same?
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    edited November 2020
    Not particularly, because in this case other elements of the amplifier's design change as well. (damping factor, current, thd, s/n ratio)

    M6si:
    v68udrb9mxzh.png

    M5si:
    406112ukj7d6.png

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    Personally, I don't think you can have too much power, but you definitely can have too little power. It all depends on how efficient your speakers are, the type of music being played, and how loud you want the music too be played. Granted, as mentioned above, only a few watts are usually used, but clean reproduction of transients can require a lot of power. My amps are rated at 1200 watts/channel with 4 ohm speakers. I very rarely ever play my stereo so loud that the SPL is in the 90s, or higher, but when I do it sounds as good as at a lower volume.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    Is it kinda like driving a 100hp car at 35mph and a 600hp car at 35mph? It'll probably feel the same, except for when you hit the gas to accelerate?
  • Clipdat wrote: »
    Is it kinda like driving a 100hp car at 35mph and a 600hp car at 35mph? It'll probably feel the same, except for when you hit the gas to accelerate?

    Great analogy!
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,413
    I learned to day that yes, you can have too much power. 1100db is enough sound to actually create my very own universe-killing Black Hole. Every man needs something to strive for, and now I have mine! :p
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited November 2020
    Very interesting that the 5 has a higher p2p current rating than the 6.

    Other than the ability to play louder, higher powered amps produce a fuller sound at lower volume levels.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited November 2020
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Is it kinda like driving a 100hp car at 35mph and a 600hp car at 35mph? It'll probably feel the same, except for when you hit the gas to accelerate?

    They sure as hell won't sound the same at idle or speed.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,365
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Not particularly, because in this case other elements of the amplifier's design change as well. (damping factor, current, thd, s/n ratio)

    M6si:
    v68udrb9mxzh.png

    M5si:
    406112ukj7d6.png

    Damping factor is overrated, you don't need that much to be effective.
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,552
    I’m in the camp of better watts trump more power. But you need to meet a threshold of watts as well.
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
  • smglbrth
    smglbrth Posts: 1,471
    I am way far from an expert obviously, but, I think it depends on a whole lot of various other tools in the loop. People rave all the time about the Marantz of old, amongst other makers. Back then the "watts" were in the mid range around 40 watts/channel or so? You had your bigger ones too but most weren't 100+ watts/channel. I think you have the best of both worlds in the M6si as far as quality watts and watts/channel...
    Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    invalid wrote: »
    Damping factor is overrated, you don't need that much to be effective.

    Here's an informative article about that: https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/application_notes/audio-myth-damping-factor-isnt-much-of-a-factor
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    Depends totally and utterly on the loudspeakers.
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Did you check with Lord Acton?
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,365
    Clipdat wrote: »
    invalid wrote: »
    Damping factor is overrated, you don't need that much to be effective.

    Here's an informative article about that: https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/application_notes/audio-myth-damping-factor-isnt-much-of-a-factor

    If damping factor was so important, than why do vintage krell amps have damping factors of only around 150 but they can produce more bass than most amps that have a damping factor of almost 1000.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    Did you read the article?
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,365
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Did you read the article?

    Some of it. I just don't think it's an issue with most solid state amps.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    The article basically reinforces the notion that a very low damping factor is not desirable and there's no need for a very high damping factor, which IIRC is often obtained by tons of negative feedback. Other than that, it's a product promotion.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,934
    Every amplifier manufacturer thinks that their way/approach is the best way.

    I still think the article is a worthwhile read, if you learn one or two things from it like I did.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,365
    According to Ralph karsten, there is no speaker made that needs a damping factor more than a 20 times ratio.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,013
    edited November 2020
    silly joke
    I disabled signatures.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,489
    If someone has a pair of very high efficiency horn speakers and a first gen Emotiva amp or a promamp that is a case of too much gain and too much noise. Probably not too much power though if the volume control can still be modulated. A low noise low power tube amp would be better. That’s an extreme example.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    ju445b4egf2a.jpeg
    It's possible...
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable