Creating RCA cables
ALL212
Posts: 1,577
I moved some things around, found some wire, didn't find connectors so I've purchased some RCA connectors to try out. I have one set of Groneberg cables (about 40") and some paired lengths of Mogami W2534.
My goal was to find some RCA's for the Groneberg which are rather large. Outside OD is 10mm. I purchased some Furutech FT-111's but the way those are designed would not work with the Groneberg. I did use them with the Mogami and I'm using those from my TT pre to the preamp.
Round 1: Parts Express RCA Connectors with Carbon Fiber and Brass shell. Approx. $25 for four.
These connectors use a soldered center pin and a set screw for the shield/ground. I ground the shield on one end only when making these.
Strip the plastic and pull back the copper shield. On this end I'll ground the shield.
Next strip the blue wires back as far as possible and pull them back over the cable. Strip the white wires back about 1/4", twist them together and tin them.
Push the cable into the connector far enough to almost touch the insulation of the white wires to the center pin recepticle.
Screw down the shield and solder in the center pin.
I then trimmed back the shield and conductors sticking out from the back of the connector and put one layer of heat shrink on it. This helps fill the gap between cable and connector. On the end where I don't use the shield I push this up just a bit so that the heat shrink goes just over the edge of the cut off outer insulation and the trimmed off shield so that the shield does not touch the connector (no picture of that - maybe next time).
Slide the backshell up the cable and screw it together.
I use a small piece of heatshrink to indicate the shield grounded end.
Worked well and looks nice.
At about $6 each these are very nice connectors! The big blue monsters here are the Groneberg with Cardas RCA's. Those are about the only RCA's I've found that work fairly well with that size cable.
My goal was to find some RCA's for the Groneberg which are rather large. Outside OD is 10mm. I purchased some Furutech FT-111's but the way those are designed would not work with the Groneberg. I did use them with the Mogami and I'm using those from my TT pre to the preamp.
Round 1: Parts Express RCA Connectors with Carbon Fiber and Brass shell. Approx. $25 for four.
These connectors use a soldered center pin and a set screw for the shield/ground. I ground the shield on one end only when making these.
Strip the plastic and pull back the copper shield. On this end I'll ground the shield.
Next strip the blue wires back as far as possible and pull them back over the cable. Strip the white wires back about 1/4", twist them together and tin them.
Push the cable into the connector far enough to almost touch the insulation of the white wires to the center pin recepticle.
Screw down the shield and solder in the center pin.
I then trimmed back the shield and conductors sticking out from the back of the connector and put one layer of heat shrink on it. This helps fill the gap between cable and connector. On the end where I don't use the shield I push this up just a bit so that the heat shrink goes just over the edge of the cut off outer insulation and the trimmed off shield so that the shield does not touch the connector (no picture of that - maybe next time).
Slide the backshell up the cable and screw it together.
I use a small piece of heatshrink to indicate the shield grounded end.
Worked well and looks nice.
At about $6 each these are very nice connectors! The big blue monsters here are the Groneberg with Cardas RCA's. Those are about the only RCA's I've found that work fairly well with that size cable.
Aaron
Enabler Extraordinaire
Enabler Extraordinaire
Comments
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Nice tutorial. I would've thought the blue wires would be twisted together and soldered to the shell, prior to soldering the white wires to the center pin. Are all of the shield wires making contact with the shell through that one set screw? Or do they also make contact with the shell anyway due to the close fit?George / NJ
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With this connector there is no place to solder the shield.
The blue wires were guided towards the set screw but once it’s tightened down compression packs the rest against the shell.
Not the best shield connection I’ve worked with but I really don’t see an issue with it for the cost.Aaron
Enabler Extraordinaire -
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I've ground down the bottom of the RCA to get to good metal and soldered the shield there. It folds onto itself and under the cable. It's a pita but that was my work around. Yes got to love Cardas for big cable. I also cut out the bridge (on Cardas) there for more room to work the bottom. I dislike those little screws they go bye bye.
Nice work Aaron but hey you've forgotten more than I have ever known.
Adhesive backed shrink tubing is your friend. I use needle nose pliers to stretch it out to go over larger wire than what the shrink wrap is and its native state. It all goes back shrinks up good glues like it should with the heat gun
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I’ve got to order up some adhesive heat shrink. There’s been a couple times I thought it would work better than regular.
Good idea!!Aaron
Enabler Extraordinaire -
You make it look easy, Ern!
You could do this if you would just quit licking the solder off the iron.. it’s got lead in it!!
Aaron
Enabler Extraordinaire -
gosh I do not want to see Scott's tongue, good thing he never snorted it (face palm)
