Littlefuse 357 Fuse Block - Polk 7B

Gardenstater

It's a good question and now (of course) I want to try it LOL. I don't know how they secure the fuse wire to the end caps. Is there a How It's Made episode for glass fuses? It definitely would seem that one of the major differences between a fuse and say a festoon bulb would be that one uses a very low melting point alloy and the other uses a high melting point metal such as tungsten probably. We'd better be careful. We are thinking too much.

PS: For those who want to do an inline fuse, sans fuse block or fuse holder, maybe someone could come up with some push fit soft copper end caps that have soldering tabs on them. If the fuse blows you can still pull them out even if you have to expand the copper with some heat from a grill lighter. Then you just push in a new fuse. As far as attachment method to your wire goes, it could even be a crimp on which would probably be preferable.

mhardy6647

BlueFox wrote: »

Has anyone ever soldered wire to a fuse? It seems the soldering iron heat would easily melt/blow the fuse.

True in the abstract -- but I'd suggest that any IC or even most transistors are more heat sensitive than are fuses, though.

You'll find soldered-in fuses in many electronic components -- or at least one used to, in older components. Inside.

One may also buy, e.g., these:



In the old days, Littelfuse used to include little copper plated(?) pigtails in their fuse packs for lazy repair people to replace soldered in fuses in a way that made later replacement easier. Heck, I might even have some of these in the small legacy of old parts from my father's TV repair shop. Someplace.

Gardenstater

I found your Axial Leaded Fuses (probably what they're called) in the Littlefuse catalog. One thing I'm curious about which they don't give of course is the dia. of the leads, which I would assume are tin plated copper.

Gardenstater

They also have this inline fuse holder available which is interesting in that if one could purchase those crimp on fuse clips somewhere one could crimp them to the audio grade wire of their own choosing or purchase this and splice your wire into theirs which is 18awg. Then one could tuck this away inside the XO somewhere with a cable tie securing it. Still very inconvenient in the case of a fuse blowing but might be useful to some people.

Gardenstater

Galvanic Corrosion. Pretty much requires an electrolyte be present, or at the very least humid air. Also solder tends to protect against galvanic corrosion that could result from contact of steel with copper.

https://inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Galvanic_Scale_Corrosion.php

Gardenstater

Littlefuse 1A Fast Blow Axial Leaded Glass Fuse $3.09 ea from Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0318001VXP?qs=Vv6sT79n3zQQU1M2/4T4AA==

From Digikey only $0.96 ea but slightly different part# (hxp vs vxp):

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/0318001-HXP/F2608-ND/777324

This is interesting because they both give the DC Cold Resistance spec of 0.19 Ohms (190mOhms). I don't have a meter sensitive enough to measure this. To me this indicates that folks removing these fuses might want to increase the value of their XO tweeter resistors by at least this amount, maybe more like 0.25 Ohms. Difference may or may not be audible, especially in my case where I have a 4.5 Ohm resistor (about a 5% difference only).

$0.84 ea from Mouser so the vxp must be a larger quan. vs the hxp

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0318001HXP?qs=OJFHm2hVE4Fro/RXn1edzQ==

Gardenstater

Just for an LOL amazon has one of these fuses for $9.12 plus shippping. BUT they had a nice zoomable picture. Wavy fuse element vs a straight one. Looks like leads are 20awg.
https://www.amazon.com/LITTELFUSE-0318001-HXP-Cartridge-Acting-6-3mm/dp/B084D2YPK7/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=0318001.hxp&qid=1600361312&sr=8-2