Pangea cables

muncybob

I have noticed some of their cables in the for sale area but don't recall any actual reviews or comparisons of their cables to other offerings. They seem to be very reasonably priced. Have I missed something here?

Hermitism

Warm side of neutral, increase in detail, imo. 14/14SE (for source) flexible. 9/9SE (for amp) thick and stiff. Bending isn't the issue. I would liken them to a brand new leather gun belt. I know "that" subject isn't allowed here, but it's relevant to me explaining the thick cables. Anyone that has held a new leather gun belt will tell you that, depending on the brand, can be 2 to 5 times thicker than a regular leather belt. They are extremely thick and not flexible. You have to slowly break them in by flexing the belt, little by little, from one end to the other and repeating. You don't want to crack the leather, so you do a little bit at a time. You can get the thick cables to bend with work, no issues. The issue with the 9/9SE is if you have to twist the cables. If you attach the cable to the back of an amp, bend it down, then bend it to the right, then up and towards the wall, the cable plug may not line up with the wall outlet. That's where these cables can be a problem. Twisting the cable puts tension on the wall outlet, or outlet of a conditioner. So you want an outlet with gripping strength. These cables when twisted want to pull themselves free from the outlet/IEC inlet. They can also move your components if connected to a light weight component. I use them exclusively in my HT with bright RTi speakers. Also great for subs. All my cables just happen to line up with the outlets, so I've never had any reason to try and twist them. If you have to twist, the longer the cable, the better. All mine are 1 meter length and I've had no issues, but again, I've never had a need to put a twist in mine.

I've own both 14 and 14SE. SE is a step up. I've never owned a 9, all my 9s are SE models. But no difference in stiffness, from what I've read. None of mine are the newer MKII with Cardis copper, which are supposed to be better.

invalid

They are pretty stiff, I don't have any problem with the wall outlet since I installed my outlets in sideways but it can be a problem on the IEC side.

pitdogg2

Are you talking power cables or the RCA, HDMI kind of stuff?

I've had and still do use a ac14se. It works great. I've looked at the RCA and HDMI cables at Axpona. They up clise look well constructed I've yet to try them.

motorstereo

I use a pair of 3 meter long original 9's to power my 1200 wpc amps with good results. Get them longer than what you need as you have to make longer arc's because of their larger diameter. They fit snugly at both the outlet and amp end and I think they're a good bang for the buck.

muncybob

Was thinking more along the lines of RCA types but good to know everyone's experiences.

msg

I actually didn't know that Pangea made/distributed other kinds of cables, specifically RCAs. Ha. Never been to their site before this morning.

https://www.pangeaaudio.com/Pangea-Audio-Prime-Interconnect-RCA-to-RCA
https://www.pangeaaudio.com/Pangea-Audio-Premier-Interconnect-RCA-to-RCA

The Premier uses Cardas Grade 1 copper for the primary conductor and OFC for the other two. What's the third conductor for in RCA cables?

pitdogg2

In some instances Scott the third cable attaches to the shield at one end to drain RFI-EMI interference. another thing is some of these are also built as balanced so that third would be used for the in phase and out of phase signal. Makes sense to just make the cable that way instead of the expense of making two different cables that carry the same name..

make sense?

msg

Ah, yes, it does.

I'm thinking back to my first set of DIY cable builds from Doug (Douglas Connection for those who don't know Doug). Those cables had two conductors plus shield. I remember him telling me to twist the second conductor and shield together - on one end only with the shield - for drain, and solder to the connector body. On the source side, it's just the two conductors, one to pin, one to body.

With three conductors in RCA use, do you leave one of the conductors completely disconnected, or do you set it up like the shield, where it's only connected on one side?

Gardenstater

Not trying to be negative but I usually find these audiophile cable mfg's descriptions extremely tiresome. Too much hype and the opposite......vagueness. They might be very nice sounding cables. For example:

advanced PE insulation (< so is it solid or foam?)

advanced nylon braid (Umm Okey Dokey)

double sided aluminum foil (like the stuff I buy at Pathmark?)

Separate solid core Cardas Grade One Copper conductor for the right and left channels (<Well that's great to hear, otherwise we'd have no stereo!)

Premier cables feature a separate solid core Cardas Grade One Copper conductor for the right and left channels and then a separate OFC copper conductor for each channel’s return conductor.

(again that's great to hear.....avoids those dreaded short circuits and how and why would you share the return when that would mean an increase in round trip resistance for the interconnect cable unless you used a larger gauge (skin effect?) and both channels would have to be incorporated into the same cable with the RCA's coming off as splits at both ends. Also, why would you use a lesser grade of copper for the return? Could use some explanation there)

invalid

msg wrote: »

I actually didn't know that Pangea made/distributed other kinds of cables, specifically RCAs. Ha. Never been to their site before this morning

They make just about every kind of cable, I believe they are owned by audio advisor.

pitdogg2

why would you use a lesser grade of copper for the return? Could use some explanation there)

It's simple. You do not necessarily need that top quality of copper as a return. It doesn't affect the sound. It's also a cost ratio thing. Pangea is NEVER going to be thought of like Cardas, Audioquest etc. therefore you keep your costs down to be able to sell a very affordable cable with good quality components.

msg Posts: 5,845
10:33AM
Ah, yes, it does.

I'm thinking back to my first set of DIY cable builds from Doug (Douglas Connection for those who don't know Doug). Those cables had two conductors plus shield. I remember him telling me to twist the second conductor and shield together - on one end only with the shield - for drain, and solder to the connector body. On the source side, it's just the two conductors, one to pin, one to body.

With three conductors in RCA use, do you leave one of the conductors completely disconnected, or do you set it up like the shield, where it's only connected on one side?

I've made some stuff from him as well. If the wire is covered in insulation and not exposed to the shield it would make little difference as it can't drain anything unless it is connected to the shield. IF IT WAS ME I would double up on the signal wire or ground wire and hook up all three and not leave one open. Since this has a braided shield like Dougs you could do the very same IF you were building some.

Gardenstater

It doesn't affect the sound at all? So audio signals shouldn't be thought of as AC signals then, even though everyone agrees they are not DC. Also are we being foolish when we rewire our speakers inside and we shouldn't worry about the quality of copper in the "return" paths there?

pitdogg2

Gardenstater wrote: »

It doesn't affect the sound at all? So audio signals shouldn't be thought of as AC signals then, even though everyone agrees they are not DC. Also are we being foolish when we rewire our speakers inside and we shouldn't worry about the quality of copper in the "return" paths there?

That is my theory and I'm sticking with it.
You are welcome to do that if you wish.

Clipdat

pitdogg2 wrote: »

In some instances Scott the third cable attaches to the shield at one end to drain RFI-EMI interference. another thing is some of these are also built as balanced so that third would be used for the in phase and out of phase signal. Makes sense to just make the cable that way instead of the expense of making two different cables that carry the same name..

make sense?

Clear as molasses, Ivan.

BlueFox

They are okay beginner cables.

delkal

Two random and unconnected thoughts.......

I don't understand the thought of a different "return" leg for an AC current. The voltage swings from positive to negative and the electrons go one way then the other.......Equally.

Are you sure you need a shielded interconnect? I only need 3 feet but I tried one once. It sucked the life out of the sound. (YMMV)

invalid

delkal wrote: »

Two random and unconnected thoughts.......

I don't understand the thought of a different "return" leg for an AC current. The voltage swings from positive to negative and the electrons go one way then the other.......Equally.

Are you sure you need a shielded interconnect? I only need 3 feet but I tried one once. It sucked the life out of the sound. (YMMV)

As I understand the current and the voltage is just the medium to produce the electromagnetic wave, the electrons travel very slowly and not much, but the electromagnetic wave travels in one direction at the speed of light in a vacuum.

Gardenstater

In alternating current the electrons don't just move steadily in one direction, they move back and forth. In DC current, eventually the electrons would make it from the beginning of the circuit to the end, or back to the beginning.